Bernie

Yes Paul. If the rings ever got that bad the engine would have no compression and wouldn't start anyway.

On a two stroke anything that happens to go past the piston will be blown back on to the top of the piston. Air is pushed into the combustion chamber by the downward motion of the piston up through a port that goes up along the side of the cylinder. In non fuel injected two strokes the fuel/oil mix lubricated the crankshaft, cylinder walls and piston wrist pin. But with direct injection the oil only needs to have the odd drop added to lubricate these parts as it is only air below the piston to be pushed up through the port in the cylinder. Fuel isn't there to wash it off.

I have a real old one that I use around my cottage hauling wood and stuff. Great buggy for that. Bulletproof except for brakes. They suck. Also, these are not built for two. They can be downright dangerous with the second seat. Not recommended for that. They have more than enough power to flip over backwards.

Why kick a 3rd party appointee out? Just shows they have things to hide there too. Like has been said. The problem is from both sides. No one is blameless. There is much more to the story than what we hear.

We sell both brands you are looking at. Both the Verado and the Etec are great engines. And points have been made about both. Personally I like the Etec for its light weight, low maintainence, fuel economy and great power. But I do have an honest affinity for the 2 strokes being raised on OMC stuff. I'm being pushed to put a new Verado on my boat for next year. Undecided myself. PS.The Etec has less emissions than the 4 strokes.

You guys have fun no matter where you go. Nice fish fellas!

I never plug a sidewall and depending on sidewall damage am hesitant to even patch. Lots of flexing goes on in the sidewall. But plugs in tread surface are totally legal. The plain rubber ones I will not use. I really like the brown fiber strand style. Tough as can be and have a sealer as part of the compound. Rarely an issue with them. A few years ago I ran over a sharp stick with my ATV back at the hunt camp. It was a slash over an inch long. Put in a dozen of them just to see if it would hold. It did. I left the tire on that winter just to see what would happen. It held all the way to the next hunting season when I put on a new set.

Hey Joe, how about they do it at my place? The money spent would pay our fishing trips for a long time. Would they be OK with a big tent?

OK, here's one for you. Electronic ignition came out on a Johnson outboard in 1967 on a 55HP. Worked pretty good too. The first ones had some box troubles but the replacement ones were OK.

She is an incredible young lady Wayne. You must be proud of her determination and strength.

Great report Cliff, well done. You take very good pictures. As usual we had a fun time. The weather was perfect and the company was grand. Here's a couple of pics off my camera Gerritt took.

I'd be a little concerned using the process in that video on some stuck rotors on some cars/trucks. Some rotors are stuck on so bad that doing it in that manner may break off or bend the tabs that hold the caliper. Then replacement of the complete knuckle would be needed. Perhaps applying some pressure using that method and a few raps on the face of the rotor to break the rust would be needed. I have found hitting the face of the rotor between the studs the best way to loosen the rust. But you need to be careful not to hit the studs.

Great place to live, but tough to make a living. There are openings for skilled trade guys, but skilled is a key factor. I live in a small town 35 km south of North bay, would not live anywhere else.

I dispose of mine on the rocks beside the cottage. The gulls, herons, crows and osprey have it gone in 15 minutes.

Good to hear from you Art. Glad you made it through the storm OK.

Watching the hurricane advance over the last couple days I have thought of those two guys as well as the millions of others.

I didn't feel it, but my brother upstairs did. Just goes to show I was too busy to notice.

My cousin Gerry operates the boat shop in Powassan. His father Pete still is there in the office. He remembers everyone. I operate the auto shop. My brother operates the Marine.

Yes, that is a Giesler boat. That appears to be a Nipissing Special. An 18 ft. We still build new ones. If you need any parts for it, let me know.

The optimum propeller is the one that allows your engine to run in it's recommended RPM range. Too large of a propeller will put a strain on rod and crank bearings. It may not immediately show but will certainly reduce engine life. Too small a pitch and the engine could over rev. Here's an analogy; Ride a 10 speed bicycle in 10th gear (big pitch prop)going up a hill, your knees are a piston rod. Your knees are bearing lots of torque trying to pedal. Try a lower gear and it becomes easier to pedal and your knees are under less strain. You may even go a little faster because it puts your strength into the proper zone (remember the engine torque charts?). Bigger isn't always better. Use the proper pitch.

Not likely a venting issue at an idle. Venting issues usually show up at open throttle due to a lack of fuel. There really isn't too much to servicing them. Replace the fuel filter, lower unit oil(yearly), and a water pump(water pump every three or 4 years). Make sure you operate the fogging option when you put it away for the winter and add some fuel stabilizer. This is really important in these engines as there is a small amount of fuel that stays in the injection system all the time. Unstabilized fuel can leave some really ugly deposits. I don't run mine slow too often but also avoid full throttle as well. Every once in a while I open it up to keep things cleaned out.

Stop by a BRP dealer and pick up some "Carbon Guard". Use as directed. This will often cure your issue. I use it once a year.

It's great these guys are doing the job. But often it's their attitude and the way they do it that pisses people off.

It will work.

You will find two brown wires from the trailer. Hook both of them to the brown wire on the plug you purchased.