cynmar

You're right Roy, my thumb is always stopping the line before the lure hits the water. Except for those times that I have a brain fart, (happens as you get older). I think I'll just have to work with the set up as Better reel means different tolerances I imagine. Bill

Thanks for all the input guys, I'm going to do the regular maintenance on it and re-oil. I could have been leaving the spool tension knob a bit too loose . We'll work with the set up for a while , maybe it's just getting used to the new set up, rod and reel. Great info as always: Bill

Have stayed on the French many times over the years and you have to be real careful. One minute you're cruising along in 50' of water and the next there's a shoal that comes up out of nowhere. I always ask the lodge owner for the lay of the land and most have their local maps of the nearby areas with most of the rocks etc. marked. I generally scout an area slowly before I go running through it for the rest of the week. One year. lodge owner said watch the shoals in this inlet. He didn't say the shoal was in the centre of the bay and the deep part (30') was all around the shoreline . Go to go into the inlet and scrape 2' of water. Not good.

Have stayed on the French many times over the years and you have to be real careful. One minute you're cruising along in 50" of water and the next there's a shoal that comes up out of nowhere. I always ask the lodge owner for the lay of the land and most have their local maps of the nearby areas with most of the rocks etc. marked. I generally scout an area slowly before I go running through it for the rest of the week. One year. lodge owner said watch the shoals in this inlet. He didn't say the shoal was in the centre of the bay and the deep part (30') was all around the shoreline . Go to go into the inlet and scrape 2' of water. Not good.

Maybe I'll just have to play with it some more. This Curado has the pink brakes under the side plate. Right now I have 2 on, started with none and then adjusted it to match my Citica. I adjust the spool tension knob whenever I change a lure so that it just starts to drop when I engage. The birds nests seem to start right when I start the cast and not when the lure hits the water. I can't remember but I believe that's a result of the brakes rather than the spool tension knob , or do I have it the wrong way around. It may be I'm trying to get too much distance and whipping the rod. The Compre rod is also brand new so maybe I need to get used to the pairing.

Yes, I was there from around 9:30 am to 12;30 PM with a yellow HP hat on and my fishing shirt and black back pack. That's one thing I upped the neighbour, on , he was hurting carrying his big guide size tacklebox around and I had just put some stuff in a back pack. He may have outfished me but I'm not sore tonight. I even tried buzz bait and live target frog over top of the vegetation on the north side of the tracks and didn't get a sniff. I was hoping to get into some bass.

Sorry, yes that's what I meant about 2 weights on. Set it up the same as my Citica but it seems to birdsnest way more. Is there anyway there is a spool speed difference between the two when casting, do I need to put more weights on the Curado to get the same result? Just to let you know the reel is mounted on a Compre 6'6 MH extrafast action rod.

Went to Mountsberg with the neighbour today, couldn't bring his boat as the wife needed the truck so we decided to shorefish. Water was quite low but found a spot where the conduit goes from the south to the north part of the lake. I got extremely frustrated, neighbour was catching small pike after small pike with his 6 of diamonds spoon but I couldn't get a bite. Tried, williams gold, siver, mepps #5 gold and anglia, buzz bait, jerk bait, and the only strike I got was on my live target bluegill. I tried Good , bad and ugli, but don't worry Lake Nipissing is just around the corner. Bill:

I tried my new Curado out today and am a little concerned. First , I have been using a baitcaster for a number of years now, but this is one of the more upper level ones I have owned. I have a Shimano Citica that I have no problems with, very few birdsnests unless I crazily try to cast into the wind with a light lure. Tried my new Curado today with the same set up as the Citica. 2 weights on, tension knob adjusted to the weight of the lure etc. I was still getting birdsnest after birdsnest. I am wonderring what I am missing here, why will that set up of weights and tension work so well with the Citica and not the Curado? Any suggestions on what I may be missing? Bill

I am so jealous. Excellent looking boat and I like the stand up top.

That's excellent, it is a good thing that professional fishermen that take video footage never have to pee over the side of the boat though. I couldn't stand being on camera so much. Bill

Hit the vote for this car button but it flipped me to the register page. Didn't register , but did vote for the nice!!!! truck. Bill

God, that's a downpayment on a house. Nice gear but I sure as heck couldn't afford it, I'd be afraid to get it all wet.

I was just going to pick up a live target hollow body frog, yep that's all. Lord help me, I couldn't control myself. I left with a SWEET: new Curado 200G6 for pike fishing combined with a Shimano Compre 6'6 med heavy, fast action rod. Couldn't help myself also a new Shimano Compre 6'6 medium, fast action spinning rod for my Pflueger President that didn't balance well on the Ugly Stick. Add to that some assorted yamasenkos, buzz bait, tungsten drop shot weights, swim bait. and I am in crap for a while now. I tried, hon but I couldn't help myself. Think it will work:

One of the main controls is not to cut your grass too short. Recommended turf height should be around 2.5". Establishes long roots in the grass and helps to crowd out as well as curtail weed seed growth. There isn't really much in Ontario that can be used as a spray to rid your lawn. Even the so called "safe" iron based herbicide has been shown to harm pets and children if ingested. For our lawns, if it's a minor problem we simply use a weed puller, one that pulls the smallest plug possible. I know pain the the ass but it works. Serious problems are a 2-3 year proposition with proper lawn maintenance ie cutting, fertilizing , aerating etc. Bill

Okay, I've been going to the French since I was a wee bugger. Pres qu isle camp, Meshaw Falls , loons landing, Bryers lodge, Martins Camp, West Nipissing lodge, and more I can't remember. Prop busters all over the place upper and lower. Bryers lodge had the best cabins of all I have stayed in while Meshaw Falls had the most enjoyable location I think being right on a series of falls that go out into the river, there is a weed line that follows the current out and where I caught my biggest pike. Also , haven't stayed there but Lockhaven lodge looked very nice but haven't purused their plans. We've been on Lake Nipissing the last couple of years as found the Fishing on the French to be off. Low water levels. Don't know about this year for water level as well. Just my two cents.

The Gods hate me, owning your own business sucks, two jobs to do tomorrow. Damn , Damn, Damn would have been nice. Wanted to try out the new C3:

Agree with almost everything said above, this is a huge area ranging from indoor air quality to allergens, to mold and on and on. Really is "impossible to sterilize a house " but removing the bulk allergenic materials and getting an air test done is a start. If they do find mold, make sure and ask them to specifically tell you what kind of mold it is as well as the concentration. How old is the house? Asbestos can be present not only as a pipe insulation but if the house is old enough can be present in the drywall itself, the mud used to tape, in the caulk used around windows etc. etc. so have them test for that as well. I am by no means an expert but having owned a janitorial company for 20 years we have run across and assisted a number of cases. Best of luck, I'll look up some of my contacts and PM you. Bill

All I did was work a 14 hour day refinishing a floor that the client insisted he had to go back and forth on to get to his other office. ARRRRRRGH:

Firstly I am an employer and have to closely look at all safety policies. However, I must say, that the medical profession has a part to play in this. I have had employees who sprained their wrist while off the job and the doctor has told them to file a WSIB claim. Makes the decision tough on the individual, we all want something for nothing don't we? Come on, be honest

:Believe it or not, caught a 41" northern on the French with my little Daiwa medium light rod and light spinning gear. Now I got lucky and was out on a deep weed line and it did take a while but still got the brute in.

Yes , we used the 2L. pail first for cutting in and perhaps we were being to picky with the cutting in. Found that using the roller to cut in went much better and the finished product looked better. Where we used the brush to cut in you can see the difference in colour because the amount of product used to brush was more than the coverage beside it put down with the roller. As I said, next time it's the 45 minute pot life stuff. I really can't imagine putting down this superfast stuff on any sizeable area. Can't backroll it at all or very little . Difficult job with the industrial stuff we used any way.

Damn , this is the 2nd swap meet that I can't get to go to this weekend. Sometimes you hate owning a business. Was going to look for a good used C3. Crap Bill:

For polishing a concrete floor you need to use varying grits of diamond pads depending on the end result you want to achieve. If you want to get rid of any lippage and have a glass like finish you'll need to start around a 30 grit diamond metal pad and work up to probably a 1500 grit diamond resin pad. You'll also need a pulse vac , you'll burn out a regular shop vac as the slurry you'll be picking up packs the filter solid. A relatively full set of diamond pads will cost you around 2000.00 Now you can get away with less than this , but depends on the state of the floor and what you want to end up with. You'll also still have to impregnate the floor with a densifier. (Basically gets down into the concrete pores and fills them up so staining is prevented. After getting the floor where you want it, simply spray densifier on the floor and polish with a swing maching 175 rpm. This is a messy job but the end result can be fantastic, it's also time consuming as you do about a 10 x 10 area with each grit of pad. As well, if you have any serious spalling, best to fix with some self levelling cement and make sure and apply bonding agent to the old concrete. As well, degrease the old concrete before polishing, have found it works better.

Myself and employees just did a two part epoxy floor paint job. Be very careful with the product you buy and the associated pot life. We had to use Brodi's epoxy paint superfast and it only had a 25 minute pot life. DO NOT waste time trying to cut in with a brush as you won't have time. We found the best bet was to carefully use a small narrow roller with the recommended 10mm. nap. As well, the spreading with a squeegee didn't work in the long and narrow hallways to we rolled with the same nap but with a generous amount on the roller. As well, the industrial two part epoxy product is NOT cheap. I will just say that the product we used was in excess of $1000. for 12 litres. Dry time on the product we used was 7 hours. You can buy product with a longer pot life of up to 45 minutes but the dry time is longer as well. Oh, and although it says you can clean up with soap and water, LOL, be prepared to just throw things away. The rollers and cut in brush were toast and a good thing we used liners in the roller tray. Bill