Raf

they are good baits todd. nice action on them and well built.. they should be for the price. if you like throwing gliders, and dont mind spending the coin, you will like how they work. there a less expensive alternatives that work too. don't bounce one off a rock

bows are open wayne. season & possesion is for lakers.

great job not really surprised at the contents of its belly. lakers are a top predator and winter is their 'time' - comfortable temps for them throughout the water column. they'll eat stuff from tiny crustaceans to smaller game fish. whateaver's available.

yes thickness. so if you used 12lb mono, 50lb power pro is roughly the same diameter. 1pc rods to me, feel much more solid and offer better sensitivity. other than my really long rods (8'6"+, everything is 1 pc). you figure out a way to transport them. i have a jeep cherokee and hang them from the ceiling of it using these straps you can get at BPS.

man, what did you do to deserve all that cruel and unusual punishment.

definately a samsquanch

i am not familiar with the oregon Cliff but in my experience, i've yet to see a gps that is great at both providing hydro/topo info for fishing/hunting and for in-car driving use. keep them separated. they are two completely different uses and compromising to do both will likely leave you short changing one or the other. just my opinion i have two units, an etrex legend that i use in the boat/outdoors and a garmin nuvi for in the car. also, i dont think the "pay more now so you dont have to worry about it for a few years" type of thinking applies to gps units. they all work the same, more expesnive units just have a few extra frills or larger/colour screens.

7' mh rod will be your best friend old style curado is probably the most suggested reel out there for a good reason baitcasting reels are just better, as their name implies, at casting baits all day. my spinning reels get used through the ice and in the spring for trout and jiggin walleye. occasionally for fishn smallies (tubes). other than that, i only use baitcasters.

incredible! with the speeds these airliners fly at i can't imagine how difficult putting that plane down in the water with such minimal damage was. i occasionally go to/through laguardia, fly AA, could have easily been me on that plane.

camera's a pretty neat toy but definately get a graph or flasher first like drifter above says, they are all pretty good. the one mentioned in this thread looks pretty interesting too: http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27467 . i don't have experience with it but it looks like a good alternative to a flasher that is worth looking into as well.

i heart the winternet

dohc is a lot of work. i'm guesstimating the 'book' says 5-6 hrs labour at least. a wknd job for the DIYer unless you've done it before.

I think most people are familiar with using the 'sharpen' or 'sharpen more' effect in photoshop. A few others may know about using 'unsharp mask'. I'm going to write about another method which, in my opinion, offers you a bit more control and can often times produce better results - the high-pass filter. if anyone's interested i will put up screen caps of the steps involved. This is based on Photoshop 7.0, but should apply to other version of PS. - Open up and duplicate the background layer by either right clicking on the background layer -> duplicate layer or, from the layer menu -> duplicate layer - switch to the newly created layer - go to filter -> other -> high pass - the only parameter is the radius of the pixels. a value between 0.5 - 2.0 is usually good. the higher the value, the stronger the effect. click ok. wow, a grey pic! this is really great raf. not done yet. - on the layer menu, click the dropdown box that currently says 'normal' and switch it to either 'soft light', 'overlay', or 'hard light'. soft light produces the lightest effect and hard light the heaviest. to further edit the strength of the sharpening, you can reduce/increase the layer opacity. as usual, experiment! you can get fancy.. edit the 'high-pass' layer and tell photoshop exactly what to sharpen. anything that is the flat grey colour will not be sharpened. simply paint over those areas with grey (get the grey colour with the eye dropper tool first). this can be useful if you'd like to add a feel of depth of field to your image or the high pass emphasizes certain areas too much. you can combine with other effects or have multiple high-pass areas. time and sky's the limit.

i donno.. sharing a hut with a guy named beans.... at least you'll be warm! but i can understand the need for no open flames. have fun gang.

i thought that was a site for obese people

ya can't have hate without love douG

i dont think that is possible jerseydog, but it's a great idea and would be nice

it is amazing tho.. how hard simcoe gets hit for perch.. yet the perch pop is healthy.

you're probably ok. the cracks will not be noticeable (think hairline) if you see excessive oil accumulating in the 'pit' where the plug wires are over the next few days, then maybe there's a crack. valve covers themselves are inexpensive and an even cheaper fix that i've used with great success before i discovered tightening specifications is jb weld.

we're on the same page brian.. you posted while i was doing the same.

head gasket is under the head, not under the valve cover. either way, like u said, not a job for the back lot in january.. particulary since that's a dohc. (but, add the complexity of a turbo and i've been there grrrrrr)

no head gasket is under the head you may want to replace the valve cover gasket (if equipped, some cars just use rtv) if you remove the valve cover. you may also want to check the state of your pcv valve. that may be a symptom of excessive crankcase pressure that the pcv is supposed to relieve. as mentioned, do NOT overtighten - very easy to crack the valve cover on most vehicles.

there is current around those islands, be careful

one man's trash is another's treasure diggyj. i use power pro almost exclusively as far as braids go.