cisco

Oh and the PVC isn't long. It extends approx 4 inches above the seat from 1 inch above the floor. 7ft wide umbrella too. I just crank it closed and slip a rope loop over it to keep it from possibly opening while moving to a new spot. Easy to lift out and lay alongside a gunnel too. Not heavy.

I have an 18ft tinny and am on my second patio umbrella. 1st rotted after some years of boat use. I love it. On hot days the cool air collects under it so you get more than just shade. You can buy a tilting patio umbrella for like $60.. Like mentioned above use a piece of PVC pipe and 'C' clamp it using two clamps. Have to remove the seat top and move some foam away to drill holes for the 'C' clamps to go through the seat back wall. Keep the PVC an inch or so off the floor to allow the water drain (usually in the middle) to be accessed to clean out periodically). Have a small piece of plywood to slide under the PVC for the umbrella stem (which you've cut and stuck a plastic end cap on) to turn on to prevent hull damage over time. I also cut notches in the top of the PVC so it looks like a castle wall and attached an accompanying bolt through the umbrella stem which allows the umbrella to be lifted about 1/2 inch and turned to drop the bolt that sticks out into another notch. This is good since otherwise the rig will spin. When anchored and as the sun moves you can easily rotate the umbrella to get better shade. I also left the shaft a bit longer this time to make it taller/easier to cast from underneath. If the seat lip is in the way of a flush PVC mount just add a narrow strip of plywood to serve as spacer. I remember salmon fishing off port Credit and while others were going in from the heat I was very comfortable. Of course watch the wind, but with two of you in a 14ft Princecraft that has the mass to handle a bimini there should be no issue with safety using common sense. You will need two anchors since the wind will spin you more than without the bumbershoot. I like the offset-handle umbrella idea and would have gone with it but it was more $ than the tilting one. I got one that has a screen-type fabric which is lighter and allows more air/wind movement through. Got the replacement umbrella sans base. Good luck!

If a guy has an old bass boat and no insurance he has to make due. If he did get better fish than the competitors he might get the attention and sponsorship needed to 'compete'. He shouldn't sit on the sidelines since he isn't able to afford a fancy boat and insurance. He should still try to show his stuff. Re your hockey analogy, you can be a walk on and show your talent. If you have it you get a shot. My point is simple. If you are good you should show it. Then you may get a chance to compete at a higher level.

I wouldn't insure it. Just be careful where it is parked n relation to expensive stuff. As for tourneys you can still fish beside them unofficially. Odds are you are like most entrants so wouldn't have won anything anyway but would have spent a ton on entry fees.

Liability isn't just to protect you re running over swimmers. Eg. a short circuit fire due to a water/gas logged hull burns the cottage or marina down the boat is parked beside. True story... Years ago a pal brought his fairly new bass boat to our cottage and went over a fair bump in the dirt roadway. He got out right away and he looked all worried as he examined the keel area close to the transom. Later he decided to not take his boat out... "too windy" I recall him saying. It even had a transom saver. In a month or two he sold the boat and the new owner, a guy we knew drove out onto a lake and as he was getting some tackle out the boat sank... within a couple minutes! They somehow worked a deal so it got covered by insurance. I'm guessing the claim was from which of them had insurance for hitting something in the water. I do not trust fibreglass boat sellers as result. Invite the old owner for the first test drive. Tell him it's so he can show you how everything works. If he declines or looks nervous behind the wheel and won't hit waves, get a marine survey done. The only way to buy a used fibreglass boat is with a M.S. and a high speed wave hitting test ride in it while watching the owner to see any nervousness. Then I'd check the bilge for any water/oil/gas.

"didnt need the survey for "soundness" of the boat, its all fibreglass no marks and the engine runs...what more could I want?" It's not what you want. It's what the insurance company wants. Fibreglass can fool you. The survey is for valuation and risk assessment. If the survey finds the fibreglass hull has been compromised by water, gas, holding tank leakage then this affects the value and also points to liability issues which raises rates or prevents coverage. If gasoline has gotten into the hull would you want to insure it? If water has rotted out the transom under the fibreglass would you want to insure it? The aft part where the motor mounts are may be rotten/rusted/broken inside. Big engines need solid structure. Surveyor can help find such stuff to help the insurer know what they're insuring. BTW I don't mean to piss you off. There are many entrances into the fibreglass hull where delamination or seepage can occur.

Best time for a marine survey is before you buy it. Without a survey from the owner you may be buying trouble. Call the nearest boat dealer/marina. They know who does surveys for them and who is nearby. Best of luck!

Like said talk to your broker explaining all the bad you are being told. Let your broker come up with a solution.

Betmen wins. No NHL players or influence at the Olympics. He and the owners and their lawyers win. Me, I'm not watching NHL on TV any more. With no NHL players at the Olympics IMHO all Canadians and Americans should not watch TV NHL hockey during the Olympics. If we aren't allowed to watch them there then we should't watch them over here. Maybe NHL will then reconsider their 'financial' position on the matter.

The tinny should have serial numbers somewhere on it. You'll need to get the numbers.

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Trolling-Spoons/Regal-Finish-Trolling-Spoons.html Looked for alligator ... crocodile spoon and this popped up which may do with a bit of orange paint...

Looks like what I recall from many years ago as an Alligator spoon.

Hi Paul! Glad to hear you are ok. Take care and all the best!

PM sent...

Maybe since the freezing water absorbed the overlying snow creating a kinda sponge cake consistency.

What Irishfield said...maybe u missed it Brian. To make the tent uniform now I'd buy enough black dye at Michaels and follow the instructions. Whole thing will be black but hey it'll be warmer in the sun. Use the fabric paint for any light spots left and it should all turn out OK. It's what I'd try.

Yes for sure re the chicots that are tall and dangerous. I'm referring to the stumps/short/fallen stuff with black charcoal which shows it had been burn, that can be broken/cut apart easily with no risk involved. Common sense out there. No tree that's dead, hollow and tall should be messed with. Maybe what I'm referring to, which was taught me by a northern trapper years ago, shouldn't be called chicot but that's what he called it. I'll rephrase and say to look for charred wood from old fires. But don't risk getting hurt cutting old charred tall trees down. Use your head out there.

Some great advice above. IMHO take a saw/hatchet to cut evergreen boughs to make a 6 inch thick mattress under your sleeping bag. An empty red plastic Folgers coffee container can be used to hold lotsa stuff and using a small plastic bag can be used for the pee issue since it is quite wide/stable/hard to tip over/spill. Look for 'cheekos' 9sp?) which are old burnt stumps/trees/limbs since a piece of that will burn longer with no smoke and if around is light and easy to get and ignite. Some hand and foot warmers are good since if you get a chill you can open/shake and toss into the cold spot whether in a sleeping bag or mitts or boots. Get the long lasting ones and bring extra cuz they're light. To stay warm while sleeping eat some protein like cheese or meat since that will get core temps up during the night.

White oak. It's what boat folks use. Strong and resists rot and moisture. Hard to find nowadays the big building supply stores don't carry it... just red oak. But call around to lumber mills or Kijiji to find 1" or thicker according to width you're replacing.

Heartfelt condolences on the loss of your beloved wife.

Trolling motor fold down assembly will work on that front cap. Need a few rubber -mat type pads/spacers to get the cap level where you bolt the fold-down onto, and some 1/2 inch thick and approx 2 inch wide wood slats to bolt the assembly through the aluminum and through the wood for a sturdy result. Use lock nuts, washers and large washers against the wood underneath. Did that on two boats. No big deal.

We need to properly understand the issue and how to help the public on this one. Easy way out is to close off/fine the public. We've always had those 'few slobs' Lew. Remember that in the 50's we used used motor oil in our 2 stroke outboard motors. Do we care more for the environment now since we have 2-stroke outboard oil and 4-stroke motors? Or is some of it to do with marketing? Back then we used paper bags for everything from lunch to groceries. Now everything is plastic. Worms were caught by anglers and kept in a can that would rust away. If bought worms came in a fold-top cardboard box. Now all styrifoam. Now there's more people with better vehicles to drive to go fishing to places like the causeway.... but who have fewer places to go due to a zillion factors like development and private property owners and municipalities closing off access due to all the bother. I see no reason why the lazy municipality can't install hanging waste containers along the guard rail to help deal with their workers getting hurt while clambering around the rocks. I see no reason why local worm peddlers can't be asked, legislated .... or be provided with paper/cardboard containers which quickly deteriorate. It's good for tourism/local economy to have anglers along the causeway. It also keeps these folks away from more sensitive areas where their presence may affect a fishery and/or access. To me I suggest a huge parking lot at each end of the causeway. Chainlink fence to deter road crossing and access to the causeway shore. Install floating docks along each side and with a controlled access at each end the users will pay access via parking fee at the lots or entrance fee at the four turnstyle gates at each side and end. Volunteers or municipal workers could even install fish habitat such as brushpiles from cabled Xmas trees under water to improve fish habitat. The floating dock would also provide refugia and shade for fish. Sure it costs time and money in the short term. But as they say... build it and they will come.' As said we've always had those 'few slobs' among us. That won't change. Just look at the highway off ramps where people toss garbage from their vehicles at the red light. Used vibrators to plastic juice bottles filled with urine from busy salesmen.... Tim Hortons stuff EVERYWHERE along the roads and launches. Hey maybe pass a bylaw for TM to pay a monthly cleanup fee since most of the roadway duff has their name on it. Looking to the future the causeway has to have a proper plan to help both tourists and local residents (who the municipality is supposed to be working for). The above are just a few ideas and observations as to what and why a plan is called for rather than just a locked gate. I also know a few locals up there and they don't like seeing 'other cultures fishing out their lake' via angling at the causeway. This is also in need to address via education campaign at local schools.

Perhaps the cap and big round tank is an old-fashioned ice machine. You pump layers of water into it over winter as each layer gradually freezes. Once full you can access via the round hole/hatch to extract ice.Be really good money driving around in your boat supplying ice to all the area cottages/lodges during Spring/Summer/Fall.

During a long trip I once pulled in a napped at a small store in the middle of the night. Wasn't towing anything but had the hitch on. Woke due to a 'funny feeling'. Drove the rest of the way home and then noticed the hitch was gone. Someone removed the pin, the bar, then slid the hitch out. I haven't heard of a pin shearing off/breaking before. Perhaps someone removed the pin to try and steal your boat but got interrupted. Or possibly for some other reason. Some weirdos out there. I recall hearing about trailer wheel nuts being loosened at a launch ramp someplace. Need to keep a close watch on things.