ecmilley

fuel drain back is what i am thinking as well, just fixed a leak in my fuel primer solenoid

carbed or injected, 2str 4 str year of engine

there is a small mark that faces down on the magnents,just had,y maxxum apart for broken connector at the brush

as far as i know it was discountinued, i believe diawa still makes a flippin switch reel, as does bps

and if your taking it in take it to boat tech in pickering Grant MIlls is a excellant person to deal with

turn it on constant, and go tap with your hand the motor case see if trys to work, minn kota have some armature issues with the commutator sliding on shaft, also had spade connector break in top of head of motor easy fixes but if under warranty............

before all of that make sure the prop hub isn't spun, had this issue when demand is put on the prop it'll blow out. sounds like the motor requires lowering though, has this been a non-stop issue or did it just start?

depending on the area you are fishing the platinum+ is better around the great lakes for detail with the built in "fishin chip" once you get out of there the hot map chips give you amazing detail but none of the google earth overlays i have both the plat+ and hot map chips

what a croc

just becareful lew, once they start coming that close no telling what may happen there wild animals and unpredictable

who hasn't done a variation of drop shotting at one time or another think ice fishing 2 way spreader with 2 more hooks tie above ect. to try drop shotting no need to get complicatd, if you can tie a palomer know you can tie a drop shot set up if not daichii makes some stand out hooks that make tying easier, dont even need drop shot weights a couple big split shots will do the trick for cheap to check it out, now if you want to get serious about it, i use a 7'2" inch xf rod with a shimano stella on it 15 lb power-pro main line spro swivel with usually 8lb seagar leader i prefer the owner downshot hooks but there are several excellant brands i really like the phoneix drop shot weights i use x-zone slammers 90 percent of the time

from the sounds of it the snowmobile slider will work, and bend it up with a heat gun if you want

ok at 500 hours a year your honda is at 6000 hours it doesn't owe you a cent rebuliding the power head is econmical choice and the rotating assembly is as good as new, the thing is the electrical-charging/starting/ignition is bound to fail at some point as is the lower unit and trim/tilt units you just may be ahead with a new motor at the very least it'll give you confidence and piece of mind

thats not to bad for a price i re did my own v6 outboard and by the time i got piston/rings/bearinss/gaskets i was still 1500. now onto your engine i am sorry but regardless of what i repair if i strip off a cylinder head i check it for truness and pressure test it sounnds like your guy may have missed a step i am sorry to say, but it happens to the best of us when you think you have a problem nailed down

the yamaha has the 4 cyl with the pro-control tiller handle pretty much the sweetest tiller in the biz, smooth lots of torque sips fuel. the merc if i remember correctly is a $800 to get the nice tiller handle, besides the merc is made in china the yammy is made in japan

3% or less variation is acceptable but the big one is he load rating if the 226/60r17 load rating is lower than the the 245.60r then the tire is unacceptable for use on your suv. your variation is 3.4% get some new snows

have to agree lew, i didn't get a 150hp outboard and a fullsize truck to brag it up with the prius crowd

nice rod i have the same rod i use for bottom bouncing with a flippin switch reel

where do you plan on trolling? doing boq or st.lawrence is different set of conditions then kawarthas and what you want to tow? cranks bottom bouncers long line harness? to me each of these techniques requires i different set up for bottom bounching i use a 6.6 to 72 mh extra fast just enough to get the top 6-8 inches of rod bouncing small medium crank rod 6.6 7.0 moderate action use same rod to drag a harness with a rubber core large crank trolling 8-9 ft rigger style rod with a countdown reel planer board 8 ft rod like a bps signature series rod with a sc27 counter reel just to much choice at the end i prefer St croix for overall weight and sensitivity

now now i replace sliders in my yammy about as often as you replace pistons and rings in the fireball. only welded my skid once in 13000 km of ditchbanging and trail riding not the strongest skid i know but rides nice

for the op- if your seeing oil on a sparkplug threadds and the spark plug itself depending on the design of the engine it could be spark plug tube seals no biggie but havn't been under the cowl of a yam for several years if you fire a pic up of the spark plug area may get a better idea

doesn't sound good cracked head or a bad liner could be $$$, but it's an engine all brands have failures

I would be over on bass boat central to do research, you'll be hard pressed to find any quality brands in that price range that arn't a basketcase in canada but other than that what to look for, check for cracks in the flake, check for cracking in the transom, make sure all electrical works and what the electronics are on it, make sure all compartments open and close easily, steering cables make sure there free age of the batterys. compression test of the engine, check lower unit oil for water contamination trim tilt operation and make sure you can do a water test to make sure the boat runs properly

bucktails -black and any other colour, grubs i prefer smoke, and chartrues or whitr 1/8 to 1/4 oz weight find a weed edge in 8-11 ft of water start fishing

as long as you got the vehicle to tow it buy what you like, glass is a little more in the care department and weighs more but usually they ride smoother than aluminum