Lape0019

I bass fish mostly. I have one rod and reel that come out for every trip. The reel has changed a few times over the last few years but the rod has been the same since I bought it. Megabass Gen 1 Orochi XX Jerkbait Special with a Shimano Bantam MGL. I use it for spook style baits in the summer and used it all day yesterday for fall bass with jerkbaits.

I've caught quite a few incidentals in the past few years. Some hit and I'm thinking PB bass! then I get them to the boat and am disappointed. Others hit, and I know it isn't a bass. Examples: This year while drop shotting in 30 FOW and while eating lunch. The rod buckles and I set the hook. I'm thinking this is at least a 5lb smallie! My adrenaline is pumping and I'm playing this fish like no tomorrow. It's a 5lber alright. But it was a laker... Fishing chatterbiats mid season on a 3-5 foot flat. Set the hook and I'm stoked! This thing feels great! Get it to the boat and it's a 4lb walleye. Not 15 minutes later, I caught another one and went through the same emotions. Fishing a wacky rig on 20lb test braid in 10fow mid September a few years ago. I feel a tap and set the hook. I immediately know that was a mistake. after a 15-20 minute battle, I land a 44:" musky... Fishing muskrat dropshotting for smallies in 20FOW. Feel a tap and set the hook. nothing happens for a second and then the drag just starts peeling. Another 15 minute fight. Land a 48" sturgeon. That has got to be the most interesting one I think I have ever caught.

I'd have to echo what others have said. I have owned two compres and this rod is older than either of them. Definitely a model in their bass lineup put would handle pike and smaller muskies fine. Length and lure rating would be ideal for flipping/pitching, possibly punching and for sure frogging depending on the taper. These rods aren't something you will find at Walmart or most Canadian tires but they are not cheap. I think their current price is in the $120-$150 range. The ones I had were nice for their time for sure. I sold them a few season after getting them for $50-$80 dollars.

LOL, Lights on the dash drive me nuts... I plan on using my factory rims as my winter rims and got prices for RTX rims with TPMS sensors for the summer but these rims were winter rated. The rims I asked about (not steels) were $175 and the TPMS sensors were $70 each. That was for 18" rims. The 17" ones I asked about for $165. The way I looked at it was steels would be about $100 anyway so I might as well use the factory ones and then get a set I like for the summer.

Sucks you missed out on one of them but the other should still be a viable option. The smaller outboards seem to stand the test of time better than the 150 and above category. As long as everything checks out on the remaining boat and it is what you are looking for, you should be good to go.

With the separate oil reservoir, at least you won't have different readings with the motor tilted up. If anything, it may be a good idea to just carry an additional unopened jug of oil with you. The information regarding warranty was found within the user manual. If you have not received that, you may want to contact your dealer as you should have received that when you picked up the boat. I did receive the warranty card a few months after purchase directly from Evinrude. As for your slip, that is crazy high and tell me you would benefit from a stainless prop. The reason for the slip is aluminum flexes. so when you are at wide open throttle, the pressure from the water passing buy is pushing so hard on the blades that they are flexing in. So your 21p prop is acting more like a 20 or 19p. The less slip, the more your prop will act true to pitch. If you can find someone or somewhere that will lend you a prop, I would maybe try a 21 stainless and see how it fares. as long as the RPM's are still where they should be, you are good to go. If they are to high or low, you can adjust from there. If you want to mess around with setup, you can play with motor height but it doesn't sound like that is an issue for you. I would just leave it where it is.

I have to say, that is a great review. I wish you would have bought and made this review a few years ago LOL. I had considered swapping my 75 merc 4 stroke out for a 20" shaft 135 HO on my old Tracker (2006 was rated for a 135) but ended up buying a new boat instead. Like you, I went with an evinrude but I have a 225HO G2. A few things I can note that should be the same. 1. Please read your manual to confirm but I noted that for my G2, if warranty work needs to be done to the LU, they are very particular with their prop choice. My manual pretty much says you need to be running an Evinrude prop or the warranty will be void. Only pointing this out because you mentioned a non Evinrude prop. I also have a buddy running an aluminum on his 115 and he tried stainless and he found no gain. If you want to see if there is any gains to be had, run your numbers through a prop slip calculator and see what percentage slip you have. If it is under 10%, you will more than likely not see any gains. My Merc was like that. 2. Oil consumption. You are right! During break in it goes through a lot of oil. Once the break in is over, you will notice a lot less oil going through the motor. I am currently on my 3rd jug of oil at the 20 hour mark. My reservoir holds 2 gallons though and there was a gallon in there when I bought it. 3. As mentioned before, the motor will go into limp mode with you get to low. It is a pain that I somewhat found out the hard way. I fish shallow so trim the motor up quite a bit when I am fishing. I trim it down just enough to start before idling out of these spots and on Monday, It went into limp with the oil reservoir at 30%. I shut the motor off and trim all of the way down to the point where it read correctly and I had 37% remaining so I was able to blast off. This s good to know. I had a jug of oil in the truck so I just went and got it and filled her up.

All advice I have read here is great but I seem to be missing some rather large pieces of information. Everything states is generally great advice but the size of the motor must be taken into considerations as well. You have stated the motors are Honda 4 stroke and Yamaha (I assume 2 stroke because of the age). What is the HP rating of these motors? What is the HP rating and length of the boats you are looking at that these motors are attached to? Getting the compression tested and the leak down test done will tell you a lot about the motor but it doesn't mean everything. Being these motors are 13-15 years old and are still kicking, they should be alright. Bring them to a mechanic and see if you can get an hour count by RPM range too. It may not be possible because of the age but unless you ask, you won't know. If most of the hours are closer to WOT but the compression and leak down test come back good, I wouldn't be concerned if the hours were in a range I was happy with. If they don't come back good, I would more than likely walk away or take that into the consideration of my offer. The size of the motor would be key here too. Are we talking a 50HP or a 250HP? One is more likely to blow than the other if not treated properly as well as be more expensive to replace/repair. For me, if a 13-15 year old boat had anywhere between 300-450hours on it and passed all of the tests, I would be happy. I know how I use my boat and have about 20 hours on it this year so if this ends up being my average, I will be at about 350 hours in that timeframe (assuming 15 years here and my season is not over yet. If you are able to provide any information on the boat itself as well as the HP of the motors, I may have more thoughts of what you should be looking for.

The price listed is correct. I thought Spinning gear was slightly more than casting. As for the bail spring, many of the older reels will have parts from newer reels that fit so I am not surprised that they could source a bail spring from another part bin. The issue comes when you need an AR bearing in a certain size they no longer use or a new gear set that they no longer make and nothing else in the new line was quite like it. I never said they couldn't get parts after 5 years. It's just harder to guarantee they can fix the reel.

Raycaster, I have sent spinning reels in (Stradic CI4's) in a few years ago. The cost is roughly $30.00 and they change out the parts that wear the easiest. I cannot remember what they changed on my spinning reels but on the baitcast reels, they replace the pinion, ,main gear and any bearings that are done. Now, if your reel is still smooth, it may not be worth it but it will certainly not hurt. Shimano supports their reels for about 5 years after they discontinue them. After that, it is hard to say if they will have the parts required for the service. I typically service my own baitcasters unless a part needs to be replaced. In that case, I will send the reel in instead of ordering the part to save me some time.

Another reason for me to believe these are not really designed for our market. $15,000US doesn't go very far for a flats style boat or salt boat.

If you are travelling at any rate of speed of say over 30mph and absolutely had to have an auto inflate PFD, I would do like APLUMMA and run both. Have the foam one for running and the auto inflate for fishing. Keep in mind that if you are no wearing an auto inflate, it does not count towards the life jacket you have on board.

Although they do not physically own a bass boat brand, they are affiliated with multiple brands so they may view starting up a fiberglass plant as cost prohibitive. You can get one on the back of Ranger, Triton or Phoenix to name a few. They did recently buy Alumicraft who has a mod v style aluminum bass boat though.

I have cheap lifejackets in the boat right now but plan on getting a mustang Survival Accel 100 as I have worn them before and they are comfortable and seem to be quite flexible for fishing. Akri, I get what you are saying but if you recall over the winter a co angler died on Okeechobee when he flew out of a boat. Now, he was wearing a foam styled jacket but at the time on another board many members voiced their concern on the inflatables being ripped off your body at high speeds. Just something else to consider. I personally wear a foam filled jacket while under power and would not mind getting a mustang inflatable (Mustang gets really good reviews for protection and comfort. Only reason I am mentioning this product) but like you, would probably not switch between the two. Wearing a PFD 100% of the time is the only way to ensure sad days like this do not occur. Whatever people decide to do is better than nothing so give thought to what just occurred and make your own decisions.

I somehow do not think the target market are people who fish for bass or in many freshwater areas. Custom fishing watercrafts like these are becoming quite popular in salt and brackish water. There are a few guys who fish from these types of rigs on BBC and the customization they have put into them is insane. I personally do not think they will sell well here in Canada (maybe a few) but these should sel well in the US and around the globe. Just type in "fishing PWC" in google to see what I am talking about.

If you were fishing the Perth area, they are most definitely native to the area. It's very possible the local has just never caught them before. They aren't exactly easy to locate typically during the summer months. Unless you're going out f you way to catch them in the spring or fall, no one would ever know they were there. I've caught some pretty big one jerkbaiting for bass in the fall. They are a fun fish when you find a school.

If I had to guess, the black wires are what provide current to tell the motor to turn left or right.

Not surprised to hear this was the issue as it is exactly what happened to me. If it happens again, at least you have a bigger bilge to deal with the water better.

I've got the 100mph and my tournament partner has the guidwear. We are both happy with our suits. I was fortunate enough to pick up the 100mph when our dollar was better and we had a 25% off card for BPS. I think I spend $450 Canadian on it. If you wait, you can get some good prices but they don't put the 100mph on sale very often. My Partner bought the guidewear for around $600 on sale not that long ago. I don't think I would look at anything that wasn't Goretex but none of them are cheap. Some are cheeper than others to purchase so you'll just have to look around. Also, Akrisoner's Arctyrex is a premium brand. Some would say even better than Simms so you are paying more than just for the membrane. I believe most Arctyrex coats are 3 layer gore whereas the I believe the 100mph and guidewear are 2 layer. Just pointing this out so you see there is more to a Goretex jacket that just the name. I use mine at almost every tournament. I wear at least the bibs when it's cooler in the morning as well as wear the whole setup in the fall until it hits under 10 degrees. Then, I pull out the winter jacket and the snow pants. But the suit is pretty much dedicated to the boat.

Looks like I totally forgot to add the link in. The one I had for the Terrova was very similar to what Drifter posted with the exception of it was held on to the TM shaft by an O clamp. This is the one I used. https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-108U You will never have to worry about it deploying while in motion once you tie it down.

I am pretty sure I know what you are talking about and I am also pretty sure the only way you coul replace that originally was to purchase the whole motor housing. At least that is what it looks like for the V2 model of the powerdrive. My dad still has one of these motors which is why I can somewhat picture what you are looking for. Unless you can find an original Powerdrive to source parts from, I fear you will not be finding what you need. As this piece pretty much locks the trolling motor into the Stowed position and you are getting tired of the ratched strap, have you thought of something like a ram mount? I used one of theses with my Terrova and other than dropping part of it in the lake once (Okay... Twice...) it worked great. This would ensure your motor did not deploy when you dont want it to. That's the only option I can honestly think of.

Unlike everyone else, I only use a leader when Dropshotting. Everything else is tied direct. 7 of 10 of my combos have braid. The other three have mono. They are 2 cranking sticks and my spinnerbait/buzzbait rod.

I know mine did. When I bought my first boat used, I had to transfer everything myself but the dealer for the new one took care of everything.

Just like everyone above., you’ll be fine with the 55 but may want the 80 later on. if I wasnpersoanlly ordering this, I would probably go 55 but something tells me I would regret it down the toad. Lol mans yeah, the 50” shaft option will be enough.

At this time, I don’t find it all that great. Navin is plus is still way out in front of it. It is nice to be able to colour the different ranges to find your targeted depth in the lake quickly but for the most part, Navionics is still king. As fir the handy “view selection”, that is great. There isn’t much I don’t like about the helix units. I came from an older Lowrance Elite-5 DSI and the bird is way more user friendly for me.