Lape0019

the only thing the helix has over that unit is autochart and a slightly faster processor. For a guy looking to save a bit, it's worth it. They are just last years models that got replaced with the helix.

I use magic eraser as well. Works great. A light sanding works well too. After that, if you can find some u40 cork sealer, it will prevent it from getting as dirty afterwards.

With the prices of new boats these days, the used ones have started going up in price. if you list now, you may grab the attention of someone quickly as now is the time to sell. It's worth more than $12,000 for sure. I'd start between $14,000 and $15,000 just because it is newer. Your biggest issue will be the length of the boat. 18 footers seem to be the starting point these days.

There is zero difference when it comes to blocking out UV protection. There is a major difference in clarity between a $30 pair of glasses and a $200 pair of glasses. Is the price difference worth it? It is to me.

I've had Oakley, Muai Jim and Revo as my higher end glasses. Not all of the oakleys were polarized but they were all comfortable to wear all day if need be. This is my experience If these are specifically for fishing (that you would wear every day maybe...), a good set of polarized glasses that fit well to your face will be better for you. The less light that gets behind the frames, the better the clarity and better you can see. there will be glare with polarized glasses but nowhere near as much. if you can block out any light from the backside, that glare is virtually gone. If these are an every day set and you will use them for fishing from time to time, any brand will do. The Maui Jims were comfy and did a great job. I ended up leaving them at a restaurant so replaced them with Oakley fishing specific straight jackets. The Oakleys were the comfiest to wear and had great clarity. The Maui were light and flexible but let a lot of light in (it was the model I chose) and the Revo ones had a coating on them that repelled water ( it was called the water lense). I'd buy another paid of Oakleys ( I actually just bought replacement lenses for the straight jackets as they are that comfortable and would buy another paid or Maui Jims in a heartbeat. I don't think I would buy another paid of Revo glasses. If I wanted to try something new, it would be the Costa glasses with the actual glass lenses. Every review I read is always about how clear and durable they are. I just haven't seen a fram I like.

Wow! As both an S&G ad disturbed fan, that was great! Thanks for sharing.

The local shop brought in the Daiwa Lexa 300 for that purpose. It has a higher speed than most. The toro winch would more Han likely do it though if you can get passed the slower gear ratio

Sounds similar to the crackle product people used to put in their tubes. I imagine it would cover a lot more water though. I still know people who swear by crackle.

First off, I used 6awg for my install and used the MKr-18 plug and MKR-18a adapter. Just for clarification, the plug itself is good up to 8awg. The adapter is only needed for 6awg. Now, I haven't had a single issue with my minnkota plug. It's been on the boat for 3 years now. Secondly, I purchased the Minnkota plug because I wanted everything to be from the same company as it was designed to work together. I had to order mine in because my local shop had heard of issues with them and was only stocking the Marinco ones. I was adamant that I wanted the MK one so he ordered it in. To my surprise, the MK one is actually stanped Marinco on the side. The only difference is the prongs are closer together. Both are the twist lock style. Now, there are cheaper options. The ones for motorguide are cheaper but they are a true plug in where you have a little more security with the twist lock system. Basspro sells the ones for motorguide but after just looking them up, they aren't much cheaper than the MKR-18 as they sell both pieces (plug and receptacle) separate where as the mkr-18 comes with both pieces.

Thanks CNDBasshunter, I couldn't remember what the platinum service was called. And like you, I will open a baitcaster without even thinking of it. I won't touch a spinning reel. I'm sure I could figure it out, I just choose not to.

That is where Paddletales used to send all of the reels that came in for servicing. Now, He sends Shimano back to them for servicing. Any other product, I am not certain of. It is either a guy in Orillia or still Shiman Au Peche.

LOL, I wouldn't either. Bring it to paddletales or call Shimano in Peterborough and see what their instructions for sending it in would be. Turn around time should not be very long since it is in their top tier of reels.

I used to bring my Shimano reels to Paddletales tackle and he would send them out to Shimano. It started costing me too much because of the amount if reels I had so I send one in here and there and just clean them myself now.

Netminder, The big difference would more than likely be sensitivity and an extra-fast tip to feel the subtle takes. As for baits, the ones Ohio fisherman listed are the general shape of what is used up here too but really, anything can be used. Last year, I used a lot of Jackal Cross tail shads and some set the hook baits that I cannot remember the name of. Quite similar to the cross tail though.

That's a good point grimsbylander. I forgot to mention that but I used to use the VMC hooks as well but there are now better options. They are pricey but I currently use the Gamakatsu Swivel shot G-finesse hooks. With the line clip design going to the sinker and using the same line clip design drop shot weights, you only need to tie 1 knot on the hook. As stated before, these hooks are not cheap but the stand up well. I managed to land a 4 foot sturgeon on one this year. a total incidental catch while dropshotting for smallies but it goes to show you that these hooks will handle anything a bass will throw at them.

I use 20lb braid and tie on a rather long leader. Why 20lb? because I don't have a dedicated rod for it and it doesn't seem to affect anything. Many people are starting to drop shot with baitcast equipment but I cannot stand it. I prefer using spinning gear for this technique because of how I hold the reel. I find it much more comfortable to hold a spinning reel for long period of time than to palm a baitcaster over the same period.

It's a Chevy vs Ford thing. Both make products that work and both have a following. Both are easy to use if you take the time to read the manuals but the edge will go to Humminbird for customer service. Go do a search for Lowrance customer service and you will see what I mean. My local shop only carries Humminbird for this specific reason.

I've got an MK330 and it's at least 6-8 years old. It is a heavy one so it isn't mounted in the boat. It has alligator clips instead of the circle rings so I just place it on the deck and hook it up at when I get home. Works well and would work the same for you if you are pulling them. I don't think you will find many people complaining about a minnkota charger.

Bare foot wader, I agree that it might get into the higher levels of the tournament scene but I do not know if it will trickle down all that quick. I retie quite a few times a day and can see myself going through a cartridge or two in a single day. Multiple rods and multiple re ties add up.

It's $180 USD! Now, I saw the videos last night and I believe it provides a stronger joint than a traditional knot does judging by the video but I do not lose many fish off of bad knots to begin with. Secondly, their 10-12lb test for Mono and Flouro and 10-50lb for braid is not within most of the line sizes I use so it would be almost useless for me.

JohnBacon, Yes, They were known to crack and I too was concerned about this when I bought my boat but it seemed to have been related to specific models. All of the research I could find was the older 175TXW and the Avalanche boats. The avalanche was an aluminum formed bass boat ( I think a member her had one sink?) which they do not make anymore and aside from a thread every year or two about a hull cracking in their mod v because of a bad weld in the stringer, the issue does not seem to be as big as it once was. My 190TX is a 2006 and it has quite a dry ride. The only time I have water in my bilge is it I take a wave over the back but coming off plane too quickly. But for a boat like the OP is looking for, I have never read a single report or review of their Deep V boats cracking.

You've got two things going against you in this thread. You are asking about a Legend and you are considering under powering it. As a whole, I believe a Legend is a good boat. They just play mind tricks with you and you are falling for them which many many people do. Both Tracker and Legend do this. They package a boat at a price point that makes people feel comfortable. After a year or two, they realize this boat does not perform the way it should... The fact is, only you can answer this question but IMO (and many others here), that boat needs at least a 30 on it before 90% of the educated boaters will be happy with it. I've been in boats that are underpowered like that, it sucks not even being able to get on plane. My own boat is rated for a 135 and has a 75 on it ( A Bass Tracker at that). I bought it this way not knowing any better but I also got lucky because the gearing will turn a bigger prop and I can still reach decent speeds. And speed isn't the major faster here, look at other items like fuel. Say you like cruising at 20MPH, that 15 might get you there ( I doubt it) but it will be at full pin, a 30 or 40 will get you there and more put will be at 3000-3500 RPM which will reduce your fuel consumption and make that motor run a lot longer without issue. I get that warranty is important to you but what is really wrong with your old boat? would $1000-$1500 not fix it to the point where it would be good for another 10-15 years? Add that to the price of a new 25 and you are still ahead of buying a new boat and will have the warranty on the most important part. Most boat warranties don't cover half of the items you think they will anyway so before buying a new boat, read the warranty carefully. And for the record, I know that the Tracker bashers were more than likely talking about the deep v hulls but my mod v has quite a dry ride and I would gladly buy another one. The only thing I would do different is max out the power to as close as possible (Merc doesn't make a 125 right now so it would be a 115...).

As stated in the Tackletour review, the JDM version has a screw on the handle side plate that can be removed which allows the non handle side plate to be moved so that you can adjust the brakes. It's an option if you like to tinker. The downside is there will not be any warranty support over here. I have ordered two reels from japan. 1 was because I saved a bunch of money and the other was because it wasn't available here. Since these reels only come with a 1 year warranty, I wasn't too concerned about it breaking. I have never used a Calcutta D but did buy a CQ100 last year (one of the two from the JDM) and I have fallen in love with this thing. It also has access to the brakes and is a dream to fish with. I think I paid close to what the Calcuttas go for here as well.

Yeah, the apple app should be fine. Its the others that you have to worry about.

Since you said Cornwall, Give Ed at Paddletales a call (Winchester). He has a guy who does it for him but it teaching him how to do it. It isn't all that hard. As for getting the guide, Your best bet would be to call St. Croix with the model number.