DanD

I usually don't worry about the paper and just leave it there to be chewed up and spit out after running a few minutes. Just like the 3.5Lt Chrysler's camshaft position sensor; they're induction coils/triggers/sensors, as long as the magnetic feild can penitrate, it will form an induced voltage. Dan.

Lew I know exactlly how you are feeling right now; I sold my boat 3-4 years ago for the same reasons. Couldn't justify it sitting and only being used on Bass opener weekend and a week up on the West arm. Most camps now have decent rentals; just got back this week from Elk Lake and the boat we rented from Elk Lake Resort was a very well equiped machine. There might be another boat for me in the future; but have mixed feelings. I'm never as comfortable in a rental; I don't know all of its quirks and its abilities. I'm thinking maybe a pontoon in or around the 20-22 foot range; it could be my fishing platform and a nice comfy coutch for the wife to come out with me? Dan.

Anyone of these ideas will likely work; just make sure that there's enough clearance not to smak your new trigger. Keep it fun and you'll figure it out. Dan.

That's the point, when the flywheel is in position; you cannot get to the trigger. That's why this tool is needed. Dan.

If you can make out the screw head marks on the old trigger and the new trigger is identical; you should be able to match mark the screw positions on the new trigger. They're giving you .010" variance so it should fall into the spec. Another way would be to find a .015" piece of paper (cardboard from a cigarette pack) and glue it to the sensor tip of the trigger. Now with some trial and error set the trigger so that it touches one of the vain of the flywheel. Just enough that when turning the flywheel by hand back and forth past the sensor you can feel the vain slightly touching the sensor. Voltage will still be induced into the trigger through the paper and after the first start the paper will be worn off; giving you your proper air gap. Dan.

Sorry on my phone and not sure how to post pics from it? Google car alarm LED and you'll see the 2 wire (red&black) LED with a round black housing and round (1/8 ball shaped) lens. Dan

https://cdn.wwva.nl/Webshops/Live/autowaardbv/Products/Images/Large/3042_autowaardbv_0510020.jpg[\img] I don't have the trailer any more ; but here's a pic of the type of LED I used. Dan

You guys are going to think this is a waist of time; but it works most times, to detur the thrives. Get one of those blinking red LED lights that is used along with automotive alarm systems. Drill a small hole through the engine cover to install it and connect to a battery feed. If the boat/motor doesn't have/use a battery, a small 9 volt is enough to power the light for weeks. I did this on my 23 foot house trailer and all my break ins stopped Dan

Yea that's the hut. Going to change the axle this fall. On the road the frame will be 18 -20" off the road. On the ice it'll have its frame down flat against. Only was able to use the hut once last winter. It was great to fish out of; other then being 20" off the ice. A couple of winches, a few pivots for the leaf springs; some welding and it'll be laying flat on the ice. LOL SORRY BACK ON TOPIC. If you can do a decent paint job with a rattle can; an HVLP is a breeze with much better results. If you get a run, let it set and go back after and lay the paint to it. Once dried, wet sand and buff; runs gone and you'll have a great shine. Dan

If you already have an air compressor; I wouldn't be bothering with rattle cans. Get yourself an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) paint gun; they're inexpensive at Princess Auto and even though they're cheep guns; for the occasional painter they work quite well. I painted my fish hut with mine last winter and it came out pretty good; only a couple of runs and that was me getting tired and slowed down with my paint sweeps. This is the gun I bought; it goes for around 220 bucks; but I use it for some larger projects and I hate refilling the can. LOL For smaller jobs I would pick up one of these gravity feeds; they go for around 60 bucks. A couple of practice shots with the gun and you'll be painting like a pro; well almost. LOL Dan.

No offence to adempsey but both of those shops are automotive repair facilities; like myself. Good shops but they don't do upholstery Dixie auto trim has a very long standing reputation for quality work; but they do know how to charge for their services. Dan.

All the best Ryan!!!! If that vid is a sample of your work; you'll do fine! And yes Averie has really shot up, since the time you guys where having a pop on my deck! Dan

First thing I thought of after seeing the pic and reading your post Dave. LOL Dan.

Just remembered another place; Louie's Pizza at 440 Bell St. Ingersoll. It not just a pizza place, they have a fairly large menu. Their panzerotti has to be one of the best I've ever had. Just a word of warning, be ready to ask for a doggy bag; they're not cheep with the portions. A small panzo will fill you up; but it tastes way to good to leave it behind. Here's a link to their menu. http://www.louiespizzapasta.com/louies_menu.pdf Dan.

Bassels's restaurant on Victoria Ave in Niagara Falls. Has to be one of the best prime rib meals, I have ever had and you won't break the bank going there. Good luck eating everything they give you with the meal; a huge chunk of meat, soup, salad your choice of spuds and veggies; then their deserts are to die for, all being made in house. Dan.

If this were my place, I think the first thing I'd be investing in, would be a high volume gas water pump and a few lengths of fire hose. Maybe even install a perforated pipe, that would run the length of the roof ridge; it be like a soaker hose for the house. It be a shame for all that work to go up like kindling. Dan.

No I have not tried this without the salt and yes the roast is sitting in the open; but I'm using a second fridge that doesn't get opened anywhere near as much as the kitchen one is. Once that dried skin forms on the outside of the meat, I think you're safe. It kind of self seals stopping bacteria from growing. Not to worry, if the meat has gone bad, you'll know once you cut into it. It'll have a funky smell and the meat will be squishy. Dan

The next time you try this, put about a 1/2" layer of sea salt in a pyrex dish and then the baking rack on top of the pyrex; not in the salt. The salt will help pull the moisture out of the roast. Not sure why; but they recommend Hymalayn pink sea salt; maybe because of its purity? The last one I did (14 days), I had to soak the salt dish in water; the salt had gone rock hard. But the meat, after trimming off the outer layer, had a great colour and the aroma was amazing. Dan.

Maybe he's related to Clinton? Dan.

I've been using the Umai "drybag" for aging my roasts/steaks. http://www.drybagsteak.com/shop-drybag-steak-in-house.php Works great; put the meat in one of these bags, vacuum seal it and put it in a frost free fridge. When its lost approx 35-40% of its weight; you're ready to go and enjoy. There's no cross contamination of smells or tastes, in the meat you're aging or in the fridge itself. I've made Capicola (Italian Beacon) in these bags and I couldn't tell it from deli store for taste and texture. 3 bags (16" X 28") for $25.00 and you can easily fit a 12 - 14lb ribeye roast in one of the bags. Dan.

Nicely done! I watched it twice. Dan.

Just goes too show you what one person can do, when they work with their back and their head. Its one thing to work hard; but when you can work hard and smart at the same time; it's a whole different story. Dave I think you've got it figured out! Be proud man. Dan.

Signed Dan.

Castrol Super Clean. When I ran the full serve gas station; that's what I used in the windshield washer buckets. Wet the windshield with the squeegee, finish the gas fill; then a light scrub and the bugs came easily off the windshield. Do the same on the paint; but with a worn scrub pad. Dan.