Milky lower unit oil concern...

[siwash]

yes, 4 or 5 times. 
 

On one of the occasions it was a camping trip along the magnetewan.  3 days of running it hard, too. 4 guys loaded with gear. It ran well 

very last trip in October, it seems to big down or not reach full throttle.  But I think it was because I switched to a bad tank that day.  They other tank was empty so instead of refilling it I grabbed a smaller tank that was filled (with good fresh gas too)

Edited April 17, 2023 by siwash

[BITEME]

Do all the stuff mentioned. I don’t think you have a pooched motor get it back in the water couple hours running or what ever bring it in. Loosen the bottom plug let some fluid out honey is good creamed honey is bad

while your at it change the plug(s)

I think you'll be fine 

 

peter

[porkpie]

10 hours ago, Terry said:

I would put jb wield on it and fill up the oil and test it first

if the small crack is what let the water in and jb wield works you are good to go and there will be no more water 

id the crack can’t be fixed don’t throw away money on a piece of crap

What he said

[siwash]

So here is the oil after sitting in a mason jar for a few days... the water separation is clear but it's hard to tel how much water there is compared to pure oil. The motor ran for maybe a total of 20 hours or so, not that long.. 

 

 

[DanD]

Read through all the support you have received here and it's all good advise!!!

A couple of things that haven't been mentioned though. You should flush out the gear case. The milkshake looking oil, will still be in there covering the inside of the case walls and the gearing. I would suggest filling the case with either automatic trans fluid, kerosene or even diesel fuel. Then with the case in neutral, spin the prop shaft with some form of rotating tool. Drill, impact driver whatever you have that you can attach a socket to it and the prop shaft nut. I'm not talking about spinning the shaft at 10 thousand RPM; but just fast enough to splash that solvent around. Afterwards drain the case, if it still looks milky repeat again until it looks clear. The three fluids I mentioned are are oil and will not hurt anything; just allow it to drain completely and then add the new gear oil.

As for pressure testing the gear case, you can make up your own tester; I've made a few when I was playing with outboard motor repairs. Find yourself a cheep automotive cooling system pressure tester.

Remove the rad attachment end of the tester's hose. Now find hollow fittings that will thread into the case's fill hole and that will fit the male threads of the tester's hose. Sometimes to coble this up can be difficult to find all the fittings. In that case, I'd find a longer bolt or screw for the fill hole. Cut the head off and then drill a small hold through the bolt/screw. Now thread the screw into the motor's case, leaving enough sticking out that you can hose clamp the tester's hose to the screw. Once ready do not pump anymore then about 8 or 10 pounds of pressure into the case. Have a spray bottle of soapy water ready and go nuts looking for where the leak MIGHT be?

Sorry for the long post but how else could I have explained my thoughts? Thoughts of an old retired mechanic that sometimes comes out making perfect sense to me; but gibberish to others. LOL

Dan...         

Edited April 19, 2023 by DanD

[siwash]

Excellent advice, DanD.  Very detailed and thorough... Thank you!

[siwash]

Hey guys, what's the best grease to grease the prop shaft with?  

How about this?  https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-31832-Multi-Purpose-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B07YLLPN51/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks

Edited April 22, 2023 by siwash

[Fisherman]

That works or any other synthetic grease used for snowmobile bearings or boat trailer axles.

[BassMan11]

This is the type of thread that makes this forum great. Hopefully you get it sorted out... I have a similar issue with my Etec 75... looks milky at the end of the season... most likely a prop seal according to this thread!

 

Good luck.

 

BM

[jannick]

 

On 4/14/2023 at 10:07 AM, Fisherman said:

Not to sound evil but here's the proof that maintenance has to be done before putting things away. At worst, I hope for your sake the water in the mix didn't get to freeze, expand and cause cracks/splits in the lower housing.  The same goes for pulling wheel bearings in the fall, sitting with hubs full of water isn't good either.  Lesson learned.

It is also important to drain the water from wheel hubs before storing them for the winter. Water in the wheel hubs can freeze and expand, causing the hubs to crack or split. To drain the water from wheel hubs, you can use a vacuum pump or simply turn the wheel by hand until the water runs out.