ch312 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 After trying this auger adapter one time without an extension it was easy to see that someone who is over 6' tall would have a sore back after using such a short auger. So, off to the basement to save my back... Parts: 1/2" EMT galvanized steel conduit (.705" outside diameter) cut to whatever length you want the extension to be 2 x stainless 1 3/4" x 1/4" bolts w/ nyloc nuts 4" length of galvanized .710-.715" inside diameter pipe. Conduit needs to be snug but easy to insert/remove It would be easy to modify the auger end to fit various sized augers using different diameters of pipe... 1) Slide the 4" length of pipe over the adapter on the Clam mount and apply pressure towards the Clam mount. 2) Drill a 1/4" hole 1/2" from the end of the 4" pipe towards mount going through both the pipe and adapter. 3) Attach pipe to Clam adapter with the bolt and nut. 4) Slide EMT into the short length of pipe until it bottoms out against the Clam adapter now inside the 4" length of pipe. 5) While applying pressure towards the Clam mount, drill another 1/4" hole through both the 4" pipe and EMT extension 1" from the auger end. 6) Attach extension with second bolt and nut. 7) Drill a hole 3" from the auger end of the EMT. The size of this hole depends on the size of thumb screw that came with your auger. Cost ranges from pennies to maybe $10 if you had to buy everything. Before this mod the tip of the auger was a stubby 20" from the bottom of the Clam plate putting the handles about 24" off the ice. After the mod the tip of the blades are 39" and the handles are now a much more comfortable 43" off the ice.
Jon Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks for the tip. I got the Clam kit for Xmas and was going to use my Rigid drill but I am having an issue getting the chuck off. Did you have to use the allen key in the chuck approach or loosen the screw at the end of/inside the chuck? I also had an older Fin-bore auger which didn't fit the adapter. So I ended up buying a new auger - pm me if you want an older 6" Fin Bore auger. Jon
misfish Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 Nice Scott JON I would be interested in the 6 is scott dosent want it. I have been looking for one for over a month now. Thanks
bare foot wader Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 well done a quick disconnect to be able to screw in ice anchors with the drill would be pretty convenient
ch312 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 well done a quick disconnect to be able to screw in ice anchors with the drill would be pretty convenient Great idea. That'd be as easy as replacing the second bolt with a pin so the ice anchor adapter would pin to the 4" length of pipe quickly and easily. With more and more people using their drills on the ice it's only a matter of time before we start seeing cool new gadgets. Thanks for the tip. I got the Clam kit for Xmas and was going to use my Rigid drill but I am having an issue getting the chuck off. Did you have to use the allen key in the chuck approach or loosen the screw at the end of/inside the chuck? I also had an older Fin-bore auger which didn't fit the adapter. So I ended up buying a new auger - pm me if you want an older 6" Fin Bore auger. Jon Removing the chuck was very easy on my new drill... Remove the allen head screw inside the chuck Tighten the chuck onto a 3/8-1/2" allen key or similar piece of steel Put the drill into hammer mode Whack the allen key hard with a mallet to snap it loose I initially planned on using my 7 year old Ridgid 18 volt for the auger so I wouldn't have to worry about swapping the drill. I tried everything imaginable to get the chuck off that thing and ended up breaking it in the process of trying to get the chuck off.
ch312 Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks for the offer, but I have this auger and a 10" Jiffy. I'm sure someone else will put your auger to good use.
misfish Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the tip. I got the Clam kit for Xmas and was going to use my Rigid drill but I am having an issue getting the chuck off. Did you have to use the allen key in the chuck approach or loosen the screw at the end of/inside the chuck? I also had an older Fin-bore auger which didn't fit the adapter. So I ended up buying a new auger - pm me if you want an older 6" Fin Bore auger. Jon All my adapters I have made are from that 3/4 heavy galvanized conduit. Great stuff. You can even machine it as the wall thickness is .125. Edited January 21, 2015 by Brian B
ch312 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Posted January 22, 2015 The above method definitely works to remove the chuck if it's not on very tight, but you also run the risk of causing cosmetic damage to the chuck. This can result in grooves or high points on the chuck which isn't really a big deal, but they can make changing bits uncomfortable without gloves in the future. The worst by far is when there's a small edge formed from the channel locks sliding on the chuck as this edge can be like a knife just waiting to cut your hand when you tighten the chuck next time. Tightening a piece of steel in the chuck and then giving it a sharp whack to loosen the chuck is a better idea. Zero risk of damaging the chuck. Zero risk of cut up hands.
misfish Posted January 22, 2015 Report Posted January 22, 2015 From a lot of reports, getting the drill off the adapter end of season,you wont be needing the chuck as it wont come off.LOL I agree with your statement though.
ch312 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) From a lot of reports, getting the drill off the adapter end of season,you wont be needing the chuck as it wont come off.LOL I agree with your statement though. I should yank it off now and apply some anti seize instead of waiting until the ice has melted to deal with a rusted on part? Or it's not rust that causes this and is simply the torque tightens it too much? Need a thing on there like the Dewalt bi metal hole saw kit I have. You thread the hole saw on and no matter how tight it is you simply give the tool an easy twist to the "unlock" position and the hole saw is instantly loose.... Edited January 24, 2015 by ch312
misfish Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 I should yank it off now and apply some anti seize instead of waiting until the ice has melted to deal with a rusted on part? Or it's not rust that causes this and is simply the torque tightens it too much? Need a thing on there like the Dewalt bi metal hole saw kit I have. You thread the hole saw on and no matter how tight it is you simply give the tool an easy twist to the "unlock" position and the hole saw is instantly loose.... I would anti seize for sure. Another thought would be a washer (nylon) to absorb the pressure, also will keep a cap from the stop position.
Terry Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 mine is on for ever it would not be hard to make a clam like auger adapter that the chuck can stay on
misfish Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 Terry, on 24 Jan 2015 - 3:19 PM, said: mine is on for ever I can remidi that SIR. it would not be hard to make a clam like auger adapter that the chuck can stay on Have I not made enough for you already? Always, want want want. To answer your question, yes it can be. I wont get into it here.
Terry Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 you don't need to get in to it here, I have it all figured out...lol but I don't need one I doubt I will ever need to remove my drill from the adapter, it was an extra drill just for that purpose...unless it dies
misfish Posted January 24, 2015 Report Posted January 24, 2015 .unless it dies Well like the man said on Brave Heart, Yer ^&^54
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