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Posted

The hole saw shown had a hole on opposite sides that allowed me to insert a bolt slightly smaller than the one that came with the drill. I just put a U-bolt thru a piece of wood about 9" long i.e about 3" longer than the 6" bore of the auger. It fits loosely on the shaft and be easily removed for storage.

 

I tested it on about 10" of ice and it went thru easily using a DeWalt 18V. The problem I had was the drill coming off the hole saw even though the shaft on the saw is hex. The chuck on the drill is tightened by hand rather than a key.

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Posted

Does anybody know if you can buy a keyed chuck for that type of DeWalt drill? I checked their site and a couple of more online (Home Depot etc) and could not find anything.

 

The piece of wood is, I admit, not the sleekest looking solution to prevent losing the auger but it's easy and it works.

Posted (edited)

When your drilling,are you in low or high? ? You want to be on low for slow turn and torqe.Dont push on the augar. Let it cut with just the weight of the drill. I have found with the thicker ice,you need to drill,lift,drill lift. And watch out for yer know what with that wood piece.LOL

Edited by Misfish
Posted

If I am understanding what I see on that wood piece, it just slips in the U-bolt as the shaft is spinning so the wood isn't turning. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work and I think it is a good idea but I still like the idea of the fixed disc better.

Posted

I've have had the "Ice. Master" a couple of years now and I think it's great. There solution for ensuring the auger is not lost down the hole also takes the weight off the drill bearings.

It uses a nylon friction disc and a bungie. Simple elegant solution that could easily be replicate.

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Posted

Hey Hoppy

 

If your coming to the Tyler event,could you bring that along? I would like to have a look at it and see if I can make something like it.

 

Thanks

B

Posted

I've have had the "Ice. Master" a couple of years now and I think it's great. There solution for ensuring the auger is not lost down the hole also takes the weight off the drill bearings.

It uses a nylon friction disc and a bungie. Simple elegant solution that could easily be replicate.

Smart idea!

Posted

I drilled a couple of holes on Simcoe today as part of a Simcoe Ice Drilling Team :) outing without much trouble. It was hardly worth taking the drill for the sake of a couple of holes but I wanted to try it out a bit more than I had. The chuck just came loose once. That was when I put it in reverse to get it back up from the hole. I drilled/lifted/drilled/lifted as Brian suggested above.

 

The main reason for posting the pix above was to tell others of a fairly easy way to attach the drill to the auger: A number of people expressed interest in Brian's conversion but most of us don't have some of the tools that he used----e.g. welder.

 

The wood piece to stop the auger from dropping thru the hole is to me , of secondary interest. There are many ways of skinning that proverbial cat. The wood slides down the shaft under its own weight and sometimes spins with the auger. Yes, it's a good idea to keep 'vital parts' away from it -_- , but it can be stopped from spinning with very little force because it's a loose fit. A circular piece of plywood would look neater but would take up more space when stashing the auger unto the toboggan.

Posted

Some really good ideas here, I still like the idea of Brian's extension though, it would make my life a lot easier. My back likes the idea too LOL.

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