mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 So I just picked up an HDS unit and I am going to install the transom transducer as a shoot through. This is my very first time doing this and I am a little nervous. Any advice? I heard that I can use marine silicone or slow cure epoxy. I am leaning toward the silicone as I can remove and adjust it if I need. I am not sure what to use to clean up the hull. I will sand it down and use a degreaser maybe? Thanks in advance I am super happy with the RAM mount install at the console
Fisherman Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 What kind of boat, aluminum or fibreglass. If it's fibreglass you may have a chance that it's layered and not be 100% solid. Any amount of porosity degrades the transducer signal. If it's aluminum, you have a better chance of getting the signal through and back. Don't forget, there are specific transducers designed for use through the hull. If you are bound and determined, I would use epoxy. The only problem is getting the right angle. Everything changes when the boats in the water, how many people and kit, trolling speed/high speed, it changes the "angle of dangle" of the transducer. Personally I wouldn't, it's much easier to mount it on the rear and you have easy access to change the side/side and front/rear angles as needed.
John Bacon Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 The boat looks like fiber glass in the picture. You cannot use a shoot through the hull transducer in an aluminum boat.
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 The challenge with wet mounting it is I have a stepped hull bass boat and the lower "step" has all the drains and fills on it and not a lot of room for well anything else. I think if I mount it on the upper step, I will have horrible signal do to the air that will be under there. I just bought the boat, and the guy had the dame setup with a hummingbird crap unit but it seemed to read clear. How do you guys deal with the stepped hull ducer mount?
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 The installation manual claims I can mount this transducer as a through hull
Terry Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 you have got to glue it to the lower part of the hull or you will not get a reading when on plane
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 you have got to glue it to the lower part of the hull or you will not get a reading when on plane Yes, this is where the old 1 is mounted, I plan to mount just in front of the existing. (I will cut the wire to prevent interference)
Terry Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 yup I would remove the old one grind it smooth and epoxy it in the same place
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 yup I would remove the old one grind it smooth and epoxy it in the same place I was thinking about that but there is not a lot of room to get a grinder in as you can see
Terry Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 remove hoses and or push aside either way you need the area completely clean
misfish Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 (edited) remove hoses and or push aside either way you need the area completely clean What Terry said. 80 grit sand paper and some elbow grease with do as well. How big is the puck? When I did mine Matt,I used a round cut off of a large timmies cup. Cut about two inches from the rim. Put the ring on the floor,put the puck in it,and fill with epoxy. Dont use the 5 minute crap. Use the good stuff. You will need a roughed up surface for the epoxy to adhear to properly. Also,make sure you weight in down,so no air bubbles are under the puck. Edited July 27, 2013 by Misfish
monterey guy Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 installed shoot tru on my glass boat ,don,t use 5 minute epoxy, better to wait 24 hours than be sorry. very happy with mine works great.
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 I was actually hoping to use marine silicone lol Is that crazy talk?
Terry Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 you lose signal because silly cone is not real stiff with epoxy it's harder and bonding with the fiberglass it becomes part of the transducer making it about 5x more effective then a transom mounted transducer if done right
mattp33 Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Posted July 27, 2013 Done right? Ok so the time has come. Going to get some slow cure epoxy, sand paper and new clamps for those hoses(I'm sure those rusty clamps will break) I am going to sand and clean the area in front of the old transducer. I will then slightly rough the bottom of the transducer to give it a good seal. I will make a glob in hope that less air gets in. I will "try" to mix it gently again hoping the least amount of air gets in it. Then set the transducer on it and nudge it in. I will try to get it nice and straight and level, but thats my fear with epoxy. I only got 1 chance so here goes!
Terry Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 if it's a puck style no problem if it's a skimmer, a large timmies cup cut down set it and the ducer where you want it a pencil through the cup and the bolt hole in the ducer and pour some epoxy on the hull set in the cup and ducer with pencil and pour in the rest of the epoxy in the cup won't go anywhere
monterey guy Posted July 27, 2013 Report Posted July 27, 2013 just sayin i didn,t put epoxy on top of ducer just the bottom slowly press down.
mattp33 Posted July 28, 2013 Author Report Posted July 28, 2013 Ya the Tim's cup with the bolt would have been easy lol. I put a small rim of 5 min as a rim laid the epoxy then set the ducer in an taped it into place then layer a bag with some water in it on top. Seems to keep it where I want it while it cures. The test will come tomorrow on the water. Worst case it doesn't work then I will try to get it off and wet mount it. I got good clean glass under it, my fear is that it shifts and lets air under it
ah_long Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 I use a fast cure epoxy with a self mix nozzle and have had great results.. the only reason to use slow cure epoxy is to allow the bubbles to rise, but if you think about it, the contact between the transducer and the hull is so thin, there won't be much bubbles to start off with the self mix nozzle if done right could pretty much eliminate bubbles and give you a faster cure time... make sure you prep the surface well though I mounted my DI transducer this way and it reads perfectly http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lepageltsupgtreglt-supgt-speed-settm-instant-mixtm-epoxy/973093
fish_fishburn Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 I would use only silicone to mount it. I had to remove a defective ducer once that was mounted with epoxy and it was a real bugger to get out. I have installed 3 or 4 now with silicone and no issues what so ever.
mattp33 Posted July 28, 2013 Author Report Posted July 28, 2013 Worked perfect!!! Next challenge Wy the heck is this 80lbs terrova not feel like it has any balls. 2 brand new batteries with full charge and I lost the battle to the wind today. Maybe not the best test, it was more wind then I have ever fished I think.
mattp33 Posted July 28, 2013 Author Report Posted July 28, 2013 I would use only silicone to mount it. I had to remove a defective ducer once that was mounted with epoxy and it was a real bugger to get out. I have installed 3 or 4 now with silicone and no issues what so ever. How did you get it out?
misfish Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 Worked perfect!!! Next challenge Wy the heck is this 80lbs terrova not feel like it has any balls. 2 brand new batteries with full charge and I lost the battle to the wind today. Maybe not the best test, it was more wind then I have ever fished I think. How long did you battle the waves? New batteries,fully charged,should last on a normal day with little issues. Fighting waves,at full out power,4-6 hours.
fish_fishburn Posted July 29, 2013 Report Posted July 29, 2013 hammer and chisle How did you get it out?
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