concrete

[lhousesoccer]

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Edited August 12, 2014 by vtbass

[muskymatt]

Your house is going to have even more major problems if you don't fix this asap.

 

You need to excavate the entire perimeter and apply an epoxy crack filler, then re spray the foundation with tar, then apply either a delta or platon membrane around the entire house.

 

If you don't have a very efficient sump in place , you need one.

 

New, properly installed weeping tile, connected to the sump pit, c/w at least 2' of 3/4 granular fill around the weeping tile, do the whole perimeter with granular up to 1' from grade if you can.

 

Sump pumps do not only control water coming up, they also deal with excessive ground water drainage issues.

 

You have a major problem, good luck.

[ricardo]

Your issue is a serious leak. The water building up over time has caused the cracks and the leaks. I recommend to you to dig it and wash it as u stated and apply a role on seeler. I also would use the same material they now use on newer home wich is a black concrete vapour barrier. It will give your foundation a fighting chance. Doing all this with your drainage tile, stone will do the job. If you want to make extra sure and want to be able to remove any water sitting the re that won't drain, you can have all your drainage run to a low point with a pipe coming up to your finish grade ( large enough to fit a pump into). If you look into it you can find metal removable lids for these pipes so if cut to the right elevation, wouldn't be a havard and be barelly noticable. Hope that helps.

[muskymatt]

you may also want to consult an engineer on how to divert water away from the house from the up side of your property. Gravel beds and weeping tiles just below grade can be very efficient for water diversion.

[F7Firecat]

I am a self employed specialty concrete restoration contractor and here is what I would do. You have a couple options to repair the cracks using concrete crack injection and then deal with the drainage of the weepers.

 

Excavate the perimeter of foundation,

 

Option #1

 

Polyurethane inject the cracks, this will provide you with a flexible watertight seal in the cracks that will move with any future settlement or movement you house will experience

 

Option #2

 

Epoxy inject the cracks - this repair will bond the cracks back structurally but will not allow for any future settlement or movement of the foundation. The posibility of the wall cracking in other areas or the same areas is a very good possibility as it has no "give" once epoxy injected.

 

Once the cracks are injected, grind the exterior face of the cracks or sandblast and apply Blueskin Primer. Then apply a layer of blueskin over the cracks. Powerwash the entire foundation and apply a waterproofing membrane such as Mel Rool, or spray it with liquid rubber. Replace weepers, install a delta MS drainage board and backfill with 3/4 clear gravel.

 

The photo with the horizontal crack is somewhat disturbing, the wall has basically failed and it begining to probably bow into the basement. The horizontal cracks should be epoxy injected, it can also be reinforced using carbon fibre strips on the interior that essentially will act as rebar and act as a tension member to prevent the inward bow of the wall. The vertical cracks should be injected with polyurethane not epoxy.

 

Honestly I would excavate, new weeping tile, epoxy inject all horizontal cracks, polyurethane inject all vertical cracks, prepare and apply blueskin over all cracks, apply a waterproofing membrane (Liquid rubber) to entire foundation wall exterior (minus the blueskin areas) apply Delta MS drainage board to exterior of the foundation and back fill. Monitor the bowing of the wall inward over a year or so, if it continues look at carbon fibre strengthening of the wall to stop the bowing. The hill is pressing on your foundation which not a good thing as the hill always wants to move downward.

 

Just be aware that the epoxy area maybe crack once again if the wall continues to bow in the future. If it does it can be injected with polyurethane resin from the inside if it leaks again, but with the blueskin it should not.

 

Big job for sure, not going to be cheap if you want it done right.

 

Here is my website, you can see some of the projects I have been involved with.

 

www.advancedconcretesolutions.ca

 

Let me know if you need any other help or information.

 

Bryan

[Fisherman]

Nice explanation Bryan.

[bigbuck]

Nice F7. That's what this site is all about, COMMUNITY. Helping each other out. Now you have the advice of a pro. Good luck on this and keep us posted.

[Pikeslayer]

On a side note, you may want to consider how this 'condition' can affect your insurance coverage. If you have existing structural damage, you may not be currently covered (until you get this fixed) in the event of more serious damage/flooding.

 

You may want to consider this while weighing your decision on the cost of repairs. Also, document everything and deal with a reputable licensed & insured company.

 

That's my nickel,

 

Slayer

Edited August 17, 2012 by pikeslayer

[express168]

I would do what Bryan recommends in Option 2, I know his work. I work for a supplier of his Form and Build Supply in Hamilton and he knows his stuff. I also have an additional 9 years of foundation experience, you have serious problems there. In addition to Bryans recommendation I would add a french drain style system around the perimeter of the house. Dig a trench about 1 foot deep and 8 inches wide about 2 feet from the house all around where the lot slopes towards the wall put in a base of crushed stone and place weeper with filter in the trench, fill around with more crushed stone. This should catch and redirect surface water before it reaches your foundation. The horizontal leak doesn't look like a crack or failure to me but rather a cold joint from the original concrete pour, basically they were waiting for additional concrete and the other concrete set up before they could pour the balance and as a result the concrete doesn't become one but leaves a void that water is able to enter. This area would be a weak point though especially if there is no rebar in the wall, you should monitor these areas for movement! If you are in the Hamilton/Burlington area feel free to contact me and I would be willing to come and look at things for you next week.

 

Jerry Bettencourt

905-746-6045

Edited August 18, 2012 by express168

[Sinker]

I would do what Bryan recommends in Option 2, I know his work. I work for a supplier of his Form and Build Supply in Hamilton and he knows his stuff. I also have an additional 9 years of foundation experience, you have serious problems there. In addition to Bryans recommendation I would add a french drain style system around the perimeter of the house. Dig a trench about 1 foot deep and 8 inches wide about 2 feet from the house all around where the lot slopes towards the wall put in a base of crushed stone and place weeper with filter in the trench, fill around with more crushed stone. This should catch and redirect surface water before it reaches your foundation. The horizontal leak doesn't look like a crack or failure to me but rather a cold joint from the original concrete pour, basically they were waiting for additional concrete and the other concrete set up before they could pour the balance and as a result the concrete doesn't become one but leaves a void that water is able to enter. This area would be a weak point though especially if there is no rebar in the wall, you should monitor these areas for movement! If you are in the Hamilton/Burlington area feel free to contact me and I would be willing to come and look at things for you next week.

 

Jerry Bettencourt

905-746-6045

 

I was also going to mention the cold joint, but figured there was more than enough good info here!

 

Just curious, but how old is that house? Did you buy it like that?? Yikes!!

 

S.

[lhousesoccer]

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Edited August 12, 2014 by vtbass

[bucktail]

Take Bryans advice he has fixed many problems for me at work.

 

He knows his stuff!

 

 

 

Darren