my inner race on inside bearing keeps seizing

[soobnoob]

is it a hub or axle problem?

 

the inner race on the inside bearing keeps seizing onto the axle no matter how much I clean and grease it up. this only happens on one side. I replaced the bearing, repacked it. took it out for one trip and the same thing happened. I get the "whirrrrrrrrrrr"ing sound when i spin the tire so something's up....but what?

 

any feedback is appreciated.

[Fisherman]

is it a hub or axle problem?

 

the inner race on the inside bearing keeps seizing onto the axle no matter how much I clean and grease it up. this only happens on one side. I replaced the bearing, repacked it. took it out for one trip and the same thing happened. I get the "whirrrrrrrrrrr"ing sound when i spin the tire so something's up....but what?

 

any feedback is appreciated.

 

The inner cone may not be properly seated causing the race to only contact part of it.

[glen]

did you replace the race in the hub when you put the new bearing in?

[soobnoob]

the hub doesn't have/need a race. it's conical so contacts the bearings directly.

 

you're thinking it's the hub that's giving me grief?

[dannyboy]

This part is the race:

It should be replaced when you replace the bearing and it sits inside the hub, usually pressed in.

Dan

Edited August 13, 2012 by dannyboy

[GbayGiant]

the hub doesn't have/need a race. it's conical so contacts the bearings directly.

 

you're thinking it's the hub that's giving me grief?

 

 

It sure does. As Dan has shown you. They are indeed there and need to be replaced and seated properly as fisherman has said as well.

[soobnoob]

ahhh starting to make sense...

i'll open her up tonight... hopefully that's the issue.

 

thanks all for your input

[glen]

Tap old one out from far side with a punch. Hammer new one in place carefully.

[davey buoy]

Make sure when you put the new bearing in "complete two pieces",you tighten the washer and lock nut tight so the wheel doesn't spin. Back the nut off slightly till the hub starts to spin. I've had bearings go on to easy IMO,but lasted for years this way.

[misfish]

And dont forget to palm pack the bearings with grease,before installing them. Throwing bearings in and pushing grease in the hub, is not good enough.

[davey buoy]

And dont forget to palm pack the bearings with grease,before installing them. Throwing bearings in and pushing grease in the hub, is not good enough.

 

Sorry I didn't sat that,but that's how you do it,as per Brian. Kinda took that for granted,good call!!Make sure it's the water repellant grease,can't remember right now but that is critical.

Edited August 13, 2012 by davey buoy

[soobnoob]

yeh they've been palm packed...

anyone know where i can get just the seal and the washer? does PA have em? I had gotten the kits from CT but i don't recall seeing just the seals.

[Fisherman]

If you have a bench grinder around, keep one of the old cones and lightly grind off the outside. You can then use it to reset the new cone as you drive it in, that way you won't be beating the new one to hell. As for preloading bearings, I've never done it, and have not had any bearing issues. If they're too tight, you'll burn them out before you hit the first stop sign. A bit of slack is better than too tight.

[davey buoy]

yeh they've been palm packed...

anyone know where i can get just the seal and the washer? does PA have em? I had gotten the kits from CT but i don't recall seeing just the seals.

 

Whenever I bought a bearing kit the inner seal came with it,but any trailer shop would have what you need I would think. Make sure there is a dust cap on the wheel as well and pack it. Since I have been introduced to bearing buddy's what a difference,add a couple pumps every other time or three you go out,real nice.

[Fisherman]

You can get seals at Canada Bearing. Ask specifically for the double lipped version. They work much better for boat trailers in the water. The single lipped versions are okay for land use.