lhousesoccer Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) . Edited August 12, 2014 by vtbass
Ainsley Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 The wiring is most likely in parallel, Loads rarely get wired in series. This sounds like a ballast. If you have some basic experience with residential wiring it shouldn't be too hard for you to replace.
GlennB Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 Take the feed into a central junction box then feed each fixture cheers glenn
whiskywizard Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 I have 3 banks of double 8-foot T-12 fluorescent bulb fixtures that are wired in series. Rewire in parallel. I doubt they are really wired in series; it's just the way VTbass is looking at the lamps. Fluorescent fixtures fail because the tube, the starter (not many of these left) or the ballast fails. Start by testing tubes. This is probably where your trouble lies. Test each fluorescent tube by swapping it into a known working fixture. On a 4-tube fixture, take out one of the still-working pair of fluorescent tubes and replace it with each of the questionable tubes, one at a time. Bad tubes are your most likely problem. Tubes that have gone dark at the ends are either dead or soon will be. Change them before thay fail and you will prolong the life of the ballasts. A flickering fluorescent tube is usually caused by it or its neighbour being dead or close to dead. Change them in pairs. If either tube is bad, they might both flicker or one might flicker and the other stay off completely.. next check the starters. These are becoming rare. Almost all newer fixtures have no starters. The starter is a silver/gray cylindrical device. Looks like a capacitor. Two electrical lugs on the end. You need to do a swap, as you did with tubes, to check the starters. Most likely, you have none and can skip this step. Finally, ballasts. If you've eliminated tubes and starters, it's likely the ballasts. The trouble here is that new ballasts cost more than whole fixtures.
bassassin Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 I doubt they are really wired in series; it's just the way VTbass is looking at the lamps. Fluorescent fixtures fail because the tube, the starter (not many of these left) or the ballast fails. Start by testing tubes. This is probably where your trouble lies. Test each fluorescent tube by swapping it into a known working fixture. On a 4-tube fixture, take out one of the still-working pair of fluorescent tubes and replace it with each of the questionable tubes, one at a time. Bad tubes are your most likely problem. Tubes that have gone dark at the ends are either dead or soon will be. Change them before thay fail and you will prolong the life of the ballasts. A flickering fluorescent tube is usually caused by it or its neighbour being dead or close to dead. Change them in pairs. If either tube is bad, they might both flicker or one might flicker and the other stay off completely.. next check the starters. These are becoming rare. Almost all newer fixtures have no starters. The starter is a silver/gray cylindrical device. Looks like a capacitor. Two electrical lugs on the end. You need to do a swap, as you did with tubes, to check the starters. Most likely, you have none and can skip this step. Finally, ballasts. If you've eliminated tubes and starters, it's likely the ballasts. The trouble here is that new ballasts cost more than whole fixtures. Look at my ad in the misc... classifieds for cheap ballasts!!!!
oldschool Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 Fluorescent lights are not all designed for use in all temperatures. Your symptoms indicate that you have general use fixtures, and that means that they are most suitable for room temperature situations. The more weakness in your system, such as, weak ballasts, bulbs, will cause the lights to fail. Often the lights will come on only with a low glow, or in colder temps not at all. The best and most assured fix is to purchase new fixtures for cold temperature use, and these will work in all temperatures. You may get by with you current set-up, if you have an optimal situation, for most temperatures when you are able to work in shirt sleeves, but it will never be correct when temperatures get cooler.
Gerritt Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 Also look at the clips that hold the tubes... they have a tendency to bust, break and crack... it could be something as simple as the bulb losing contact G
fishindevil Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 i change tons of them everyear its part of my job,and from what he is saying its a ballast !!! i have seen them do all kinds of crazy things over the years,but before the light stopped working did it start to turn a pinkish white ?? thats a sign of a weakining ballast,or if it comes on and off most likely the culprit !!! just sayin
Walshskie Posted April 11, 2012 Report Posted April 11, 2012 Older balests don't like the cold . Change all 3 to electronic balests problem solved
lhousesoccer Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) . Edited August 12, 2014 by vtbass
ccmtcanada Posted April 12, 2012 Report Posted April 12, 2012 Whiskywizard has it right....check the tubes first. If one is out, the other wont work making it seem like the fixture need repaired. His step by step is from lowest to highest cost...so start with the tubes. Keep us posted!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now