Billy Bob Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 I tie my own for the last 30 years......what I have learned for walleyes in Lake Erie....#4 CHARTREUSE Colorado Blades with 5 orangish/red beads....elsewhere (inland lakes) #2 Colorado Chartreuse blades with only 3 orangish /red beads.....you want just enough beads to completely be covered by the blade so you get a complete contrast when the blade revolves around the beads....so in my case it's seen orangish/red-chartreuse. I use to use 12 lb mono line but now with all the zebra mussel areas I drag them on, I had to move up to 20 lb fluorocarbon. I find 2 razor sharp Gamakatsu Octopus Hooks do the job nicely....expensive little devils but sticky sharp. Most all other colors work too but making them all pretty and nice looking catch more fishermen then fish....
adempsey Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) I've been making my harnesses for a couple of seasons now. I fish inland lakes for walleye with them, but only use them about 25% of the time. Typically I troll them attached to bottom bouncers or weighted with split shot, but have also drifted with them weighted with a slip sinker or split shot. I use 17lb to 20lb mono. Usually Trilene Big Game. I have used fluorocarbon as well, but if I were to make more I would use mono. Lengths run from 18" to 6'. I use octopus hooks. Sizes 4 and 2. I prefer Owner hooks, but also like the Mustad wide-gap bait hooks. I am currently trying out some Matzuo sickle hooks. I've also used BPS XPS hooks and found them to be inferior. I make harnesses with both single and double hooks. The double hooks I sometimes use one size 4 and one size 2 hook. I use #4 Colorado blades. Most are in nickel or gold finish (polished and hammered), but use all sorts of blades - depends on what I can get on sale or find in a bargain bin. I attach the blade using a folded clevice - size 1 I think. I don't use the quick change clevices because I am more likely to switch the entire harness than a single blade - and they cost a lot more. I use 4mm, 6mm and 8mm beads. Mostly plastic faceted beads from the dollar or craft store. I've also made a few "bodies" out of plastic air tubing. To assemble I use a snell knot to attach the hooks (usually the standard method but sometimes I use one of the quick snell knot methods) and often put on a small 4mm bead first. For some reason I find that the smaller bead seems to fit better above the snell knot. I follow that by 6-8 6mm beads, clevice+blade and a final single 6mm bead. I sometimes put a single 8mm bead in the centre between the 6 6mm beads. I use all sorts of colors, but primarily green, red, orange, yellow, chartreuse and pink. I then tie on a barrel swivel at the end. I typically use size 10 Mustad diamond-eye or size 7 Rosco swivels. I've also made some larger sized harnesses with 1/0 hooks, #5 Colorado blades and 8mm beads. Here are a couple of harnesses, nothing special really. This one has one of the home-made lure bodies on it. I made a few spoon harnesses as well but have yet to try them out. I have made a boatload of them and have way more than I will ever use, but enjoy assembling them. I probably have far more beads than a grown man should ever own...... Edited January 20, 2012 by FishLogic
Dabluz Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 I made a few spoon harnesses as well but have yet to try them out. I snipped away a bit of your posting but left the spoon harness. Spoon harnesses are extremely popular for brook trout in my region (Saguenay, P.Q.). However, the best results come when there is more distance between the spoon and the baits. As I said before, almost all of my harnesses are made with heavy mono of 14 to 20 lb test and then I add a longer leader of smaller mono for the snelled hooks. I like about 20 to 24 inches of light leader material in front of the 2 or 3 snelled hooks. The walleye and especially the brook trout hit the bait hard. The blades and beads or the spoon does attract fish from further away but when the fish are about to bite, many are shy and that's why the often only nip at the last hook. There is always the fact that the lighter leader material behind the blades or spoons will break when snagged on bottom and if there is any loss, it's only the hooks that are lost.
adempsey Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 I snipped away a bit of your posting but left the spoon harness. Spoon harnesses are extremely popular for brook trout in my region (Saguenay, P.Q.). However, the best results come when there is more distance between the spoon and the baits. As I said before, almost all of my harnesses are made with heavy mono of 14 to 20 lb test and then I add a longer leader of smaller mono for the snelled hooks. I like about 20 to 24 inches of light leader material in front of the 2 or 3 snelled hooks. The walleye and especially the brook trout hit the bait hard. The blades and beads or the spoon does attract fish from further away but when the fish are about to bite, many are shy and that's why the often only nip at the last hook. There is always the fact that the lighter leader material behind the blades or spoons will break when snagged on bottom and if there is any loss, it's only the hooks that are lost. Yes, I read your previous post and it sounds like a good approach. The only reason I am using heavy test line is for the added stiffness for the spinner anyway. I will tie some up using your approach. I do like the idea of having the spoon or spinner further up the line.
manitoubass2 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Posted January 20, 2012 I ended up missing out on some supplies tonight, major bummer. I could not find the right blades (at least the ones I wanted) and couldn't find a clevis to save a life. I made 5 of each of these (not my own colorway, a rip off of another company) ahh, well, gotta wait for some shipments to arrive I suppose I picked up some basics as well to make up for my disappointment
archie_james_c Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 3, #4 or #6 Raven Octo-Beaks for worm/leech rigs 1 #4 Raven for Minnow rigs 14 pound Suffix Mono...walley dont care about flouro Barrel swivel on the end Northland holo-colorado's Solid colorados, indianas, willow leafs and hatchets Firetiger of the above as well Mine look like this, and leave much to be desired... Floating spinners do work too, in skeeny water, these get 1, #6 regardless of bait, as if I run these I'm essentially lindy rigging them.
manitoubass2 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Posted January 20, 2012 Nice archie_james_c I especially like the golden shiner, very nice. How do you like those smile blades???
manitoubass2 Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Time for some beers and tying tonight. Found a bunch of new beads at a local craft shop(1500 beads for 3.99!), got some new blades and quick change clevises and P-line barrel swivels at a tackle shop (had to drive an hour to get there) woot woot! Edited January 21, 2012 by manitoubass2
archie_james_c Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 Nice archie_james_c I especially like the golden shiner, very nice. How do you like those smile blades??? I see you have some work to do The smiley blades...I could give or take. I haven't been in a situation yet were I said "man I wish I brought smilies with me today!" . They catch fish, its just that I don't think they work any worse or better in my home waters. I'm sure the Lake Erie guys will trumpet differently, but as said, for my riggin' they're no different.
manitoubass2 Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Posted January 21, 2012 I see you have some work to do The smiley blades...I could give or take. I haven't been in a situation yet were I said "man I wish I brought smilies with me today!" . They catch fish, its just that I don't think they work any worse or better in my home waters. I'm sure the Lake Erie guys will trumpet differently, but as said, for my riggin' they're no different. Yeah, I'll probably tie at least 150 this weekend. That stuff is just what I bought today. I really liked the smiley blades, but only on one lake. I couldn't get nothing else to take on other lakes???? The ones I landed good fish on were replicas more or less of the Macks Wally Pop rigs. Thanks for the input, always appreciated!
Billy Bob Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 It just goes to show you that whatever rig you have confidence in will catch fish...
Bob Devine Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 I tie mine too, 6' long for my open water Lake Erie fishing. 15# floro, orange, chartruese, purple, white, red, or green beads, quick change clevis, single hook for the front and treble on the rear and a I put barrel swivel up front to prevent line twist. I wrap my harnesses on a swim tube like others but do not add the blades. Each tube has its own color of bead. I will add the blade when I put it in the water. I included a picture of the blade boxes that I use to organize my blades sizes 4 5 and 6 mostly Colorado's. If anyone is interested in a blade box $20 I will have some at the Spring Boat and Fishing Show in Feb.
scugpg Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 I like the 3D harnesses best ones I've found commercially but might try making my own at some point. The silver streak ones are a decent option also
manitoubass2 Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Posted January 21, 2012 I'm altering some blades today with nail polish! haha, good times. Gotta figure something out when you can't find what you want/need. My daughter are having a good chuckle at all of this. lureparts package should arrive any day now, I'm anxious
Billy Bob Posted January 21, 2012 Report Posted January 21, 2012 I'm altering some blades today with nail polish! haha, good times. Gotta figure something out when you can't find what you want/need. My daughter are having a good chuckle at all of this. lureparts package should arrive any day now, I'm anxious Well if you're after the big females nail polish might help with some make up and rouge throw in....
manitoubass2 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Posted January 22, 2012 Well if you're after the big females nail polish might help with some make up and rouge throw in.... lol, good one! Next up, cranks carved outta a certain female product made of plastic
Leecher Posted January 22, 2012 Report Posted January 22, 2012 how do you guys snell, how many raps etc??? I use 10 wraps generally. Where I can, I'll use a palomar(like with a treble hook trailer). Sorry manitou but I don't tie any harnesses or spinners but make my own leaders for ice fishing and use a uni knot for snelling hooks... very easy and strong Just thought I add this to your thread Here an exemple: Uni Knot for Snelling
manitoubass2 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Posted January 22, 2012 Sorry manitou but I don't tie any harnesses or spinners but make my own leaders for ice fishing and use a uni knot for snelling hooks... very easy and strong Just thought I add this to your thread Here an exemple: Uni Knot for Snelling Excellent! Thats what the thread is for, information and learning! Thank you for your input
Leecher Posted January 22, 2012 Report Posted January 22, 2012 Excellent! Thats what the thread is for, information and learning! Thank you for your input My pleasure & your welcome
manitoubass2 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) Some nail polished colorado's, lol Edited January 22, 2012 by manitoubass2
manitoubass2 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) These one are done with 4mm beads, I think I'll like this design for murky water. #2 Matzuo hook, glass beads, Lindy quick change clevises, and two 3# colorados Edited January 22, 2012 by manitoubass2
wantabigone Posted January 22, 2012 Report Posted January 22, 2012 I use 17 pound mono or steel cable if I know pike are around. Number 4 or 5 colorado blade(various colours). I tend to favour two coloured blades (with stripe) I believe the dual colours give a better presentation as they spin in the water. The single colours look like one solid colour as they spin in the water. (meaning you might as well just have a round coloured ball, not taking into account the vibration of the blade) I always use floats inline with beads to help the bait float higher in the water column. Sometimes use propeller floats inline. I have yet to find a hook that has a wide enough gap for my likeing. I often use minnow gulp bait and haver found I miss fish due to the reduced space between bait and hook. I think I will experiment with the hollow rubber baits to help with this as the bait will collapse easily as the fish bites down on it. If a manually increase the gap in my hook I have found my hookup success is almost 100%. I make my rigs with 24 inches of line. I fish the rigs mostly with a banana style bottom bouncer. Sometimes with an inline triangular weight. I often tip the rig with a 1 cm piece of crawler. This vastly increases hookups as "short" bites result in hook bites.
watertight Posted January 22, 2012 Report Posted January 22, 2012 I'm seeing both eye up and eye down hooks being used on these fine looking harnesses.Do you think it matters which one?
young_one Posted January 22, 2012 Report Posted January 22, 2012 (edited) 2 of size 4 Owner's Mosqito hooks small beads and blades for drifting at < 1mph, use bigger blades and beads when trolling > 1mph one foot to 5 foot of 15LB Seaguar Flurocarbon use plastic quick changing clevis instead of metal clevis, when the blades are spinning, the metal edges will damage the line over time. Edited January 22, 2012 by young_one
manitoubass2 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Posted January 27, 2012 Just a few of the patterns I did last weekend. The ones I like I made about 10 of each. Used alot of different hooks, line etc. My lureparts package still didnt arrive, so as long as it gets here by the weekend, I'll be doing some more
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