muskymatt Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I'm replacing the transom wood on my boat, it is a 20', 1988 center console springbok and has a 1-1/2" marine plywood (holy crap not cheap!!!) transom sandwiched by aluminum. So far the removal is going good and I'll have to template it to get the proper replacement to fit back in. My question is, what is the best way to treat the new transom wood? I figured it would be best to give it a scealant or some kind of coating , the edges are going to be cut wood so I was thinking of either wax or epoxy....any help would be welcomed. thanks Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Using fiberglass matte and resin will seal the edges on marine plywood. Then coat with resin on the sides. You can also price out the wood as 2 3/4 pieces and resin them together make sure they are straight and bonded so you can slip them back into the sheet metal. The reason to take so much care in sealing it is because any breaches in the metal skin will allow fresh water in to the woods area. fiberglass/wood building marine Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue pickeral Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Supplementary to this topic...I was once advised by a local metal working shop guy to drill small vent holes in the top of aluminum surrounding the transom wood. The purpose was ventilation for the wood. I did not do this figuring Lund knew what they were doing, but have wondered if this was a good idea as the boat got older? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirfish Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 MuskyMatt I have done this exact replacement.I know the wood isn't cheap It should be 7 strand and should be around $125 a sheet or so,ouch!You have to find a water proof 2part resin or its useless.I had some from an old furniture maker. After coating the pieces and laying them together clamp all around edges and then put in a some of stainless screws(both sides)After it has thouroughly dried you want to waterproof seal it. You don't want to seal it with paint.You want it to still be able to breath somewhat. Ther is a product out there for this purpose but I couldn't find it in Canada so what I used was a product for pressure treat.Its called end cut. I applied this over the entire piece 3 times.I was worried the chemical in the end cut would react with the aluminum but it hasn't I did this 12yrs ago and its still the same green colour and looks the same as the day it was installed. When you install it use only Stainless screws.If you have a home hardware near they are by far the cheapest in Ontario for stainless screws. Also if your old transom wood is the same size as mine you will be able to make it a few inches wider so it covers pretty well the whole transom and maybe an inch longer unless it sits on an aluminum shelf...Good luck ,take some pics let us know how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SylvanOwner Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Try Noah's, http://www.noahsmarine.com/html/location.html, for epoxy (and marine plywood). I haven't tried Home Hardware for stainless hardware but Brafasco is the best pricing I found as long as you are buying at least 50 pieces, CT was next best in pricing....Home Depot and RONA very expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muskymatt Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Great info...thanks I now have my certified marine 3/4" plywood, I took the 9.9merc kicker off and have it stored away until the refit is possible. Lot's of screws and bolts in the transom, all are going to be replaced with new ones. Once I got the cap off the transom....wow...was it bad, good thing I decided to do this now, especially with the new 115 etech going on next month. Wood was pretty spongy and had very little structural integrity, all the makings of a disaster. I'll post some pics soon of the step by step, getting the spray foam out is going to be fun, a must with the location of the nuts that have to go back in.....looks like a bigger job than I though, but no probs it'll be worth it when done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Home Hardware stainless eh? Take a small magnet with you, if it holds the magnet, it cheap chinese low grade stainless that rusts after a couple years. Or just look on the package where it's made. As for the wood, I would only give it a couple of coats of a good quality sealer/antimold like Thompsons. Otherwise if it's not sealed 100%, it will rot from the inside out. It needs to breath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirfish Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Like i said, home hardware..it has been 12 yrs ,no rust on screws or bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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