jedimaster Posted August 27, 2010 Report Posted August 27, 2010 Just wondering is any contractors are out there or if anyone has put in or has had someone put in a basement entrance, I had some questions for yah. I wanted to put in a basement entrance like the picture.
smally21 Posted August 27, 2010 Report Posted August 27, 2010 ive beeninvolved with a few of these. the best place to start is the permit. the dude from the city will provide you with all the requirements clearances drainage plans etc. pm me with your number if you want to talk about it.
Sinker Posted August 28, 2010 Report Posted August 28, 2010 What did you want to know? Smally has a valid point with the permit. You'll want to make sure you can even get one for that job first. S.
Twocoda Posted August 28, 2010 Report Posted August 28, 2010 Ive done a few of them ....back in the day you could get away with alot ...but nowadays ...youll need to get an engineered print before they will issue a permit...you used to be able to draw it out on paper yourself ...but since you are structurally changing the foundation ...youll need a BIN stamp and signature..
jedimaster Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Posted August 28, 2010 So should I get an engineering stamp first or the permit first? I guess starting on the permit side is the best place to start. The basement itself is pretty high off the ground only about halfway in.
Sinker Posted August 28, 2010 Report Posted August 28, 2010 You'll need a plan, before they'll give you a permit.
bassnass Posted August 28, 2010 Report Posted August 28, 2010 Sheridan out of Uxbridge - excellent, EXCELLENT work. C3 (creative custom concepts) - out of Whitby (probably less expensive than Sheridan, but less-experienced. None-the-less, they are honest, hardworking, and WILL do a good job.
ch312 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Posted August 28, 2010 darn...if you were closer i'd do it cheap. you wont have any problems getting a permit providing your current foundation and brick is sound. sometimes they give you a hard time if there are more than hairline cracks in the area you'd like to cut the doorway. be sure that 100% of that room has poly tarp and tape to keep it air tight as possible. even when cutting with water there is always dust that spreads throughout the entire house. an extra hour of prep will save many hours of cleanup.
jedimaster Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Posted August 29, 2010 Where abouts are you? How much can we expect to sink into getting the drawings and permits?
brickNblock Posted August 29, 2010 Report Posted August 29, 2010 (edited) Just wondering is any contractors are out there or if anyone has put in or has had someone put in a basement entrance, I had some questions for yah. I wanted to put in a basement entrance like the picture. Jedi, Requirements and direction from others above are right on. As a homeowner there is much you can and should do prior to add to these other comments that will save you money in the planning/drawings stage. In your deed package you should have a"LOT-PLAN" or PLOT. If not one can be obtained from your local planning dept. - This shows how your home is situated on the property, setbacks from neighbours, underground services, roadway etc... Get a photo-copy or 6 of this plan. Sketch out your own version, (to scale preferrably), and insert where the planned work will appear, the 'Footprint' of directionality of the area taken up by the steps into the home of your proposed new entrance. ie:(if basement floor is 50" below grade- divide by 10 for 5-eq. step treads and you'll have the distance away from your home). This Lot-Plan hopefully also shows your weeping system hookup, regardless it should be right-round the home- and include on YOUR Drawing a Floor Drain centered at your new entrance w/'Proposed'-new hook-up to the drain.(& weeping system). Again, to scale, Draw an elevation of the side of your home the new project will appear on showing the FACE of your new entrance, its relationship to the grade and the 1st floor. You have now accomplished several items because your ideas are on paper. 1). Your designer/Draftsman's work is close to complete 2). You have the basics of the project to submit for contractor estimate. 3). You now have the ability to estimate your cost for the project and decide on its appearance/door-frame type, concrete,pressure,treated,cedar steps etc... If you are capable of handling these basic drawings, you may wish to complete the working/structural drawings and if lucky enough to know and engineer, perhaps purchase his STAMP approval. I usually pay betweem $200-450 depending on the project. Your new Lot-Plan, the Working-Structural Drawings (Stamped), you are ready for Permit Application. Like others have mentioned, if you've further Q's do not hesitate to get in touch: [email protected] Peter EDIT: There is a mite more to it then what I've mentioned but In General, the way to start out. I have missed out a few items reading back. ie:New entrance Landing. Approx., 3 weeks ago I didnt have the time to do the drawings myself and had to ship them out to a design/drafting company we use now & then: 15hrs. @ $90/hr-for Engineers input,direction,stamp. 5hrs @ $30/hr for draftsman These drawings I would have completed myself in approx 4hours total. The engineer, well my schooling gave me this training but No Stamp unfortunately so I too must pay but his input on something like your project or mine was not that seriously required just his John-Hancock. Edited August 29, 2010 by brickNblock
spooner_jr Posted August 29, 2010 Report Posted August 29, 2010 Call or drop into the building department and talk to Ken. He'll tell you exactly what you need.
Twocoda Posted August 29, 2010 Report Posted August 29, 2010 bricknblock..good on ya ...and to take the issue of the landing at the bottom of the stairs a bit further ...if you install a 30 inch door at the bottom of the stairs to enter the house your landing will have to be double the width of the door...in this case 60 inches...now that you know this you might want to reconsider the direction of the stairs....running along the wall will mean your treads are going to be 60 inches wide as well....now if you run from the yard to the opening ...you can still get away with 48 inch stairs and acheive a long landing to accomadate the size of the door 30 inch ( 60inch landing) then start your calculation for the treads as Bricknblock stated...i used a 30 inch door in this case ...but i reccomend minimum a 34 door 68 in Landing if you run the treads along the foundation (think of someone trying to manouver a couch etc through the opening ) ...keep in mind ...you will have to have a handrail going down the opening If you run your descent from the yard straight down to the door you will have to put up Ballasters and a rail to accomadate code (42 inches) on both sides to keep the wee ones from falling in and getting hurt and a hand rail going down Cheers
jedimaster Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Posted August 30, 2010 I think it's gonna cost more than we can afford right now. We have a few other things that are gonna take priority. Need to redo the floors on the mainfloor and put in the basement bathroom. We have to sell the Lund first. Has anyone seen or know of a contractor that is looking for a boat? Hopefully I can find someone to do a trade on materials. I can do the work myself, maybe not the basement door part, but I think I can do a fair bit of it.
ch312 Posted August 30, 2010 Report Posted August 30, 2010 quite honestly, if you are good with your hands there is nothing you wouldnt be able to do by yourself after you have the money grab...er permit. cutting the doorway is as simple as drawing your lines and renting a gas or hydraulic concrete ring saw that usually cuts 10". many guys in the business use rail mounted saws, but the hand held will work. i forget what the other kind of saw is called, but it's cheaper to rent than the ring saw. its similar to a quick cut. rental guys will point you in the right direction. then its just the walls, drain, steps, and rails. its not really that hard if you do a bit of reading and take your time. most guys doing this kind of stuff will take cost of material and multiply by 3 to get your price. so, doing it on your own would save a nice chunk of change.
jedimaster Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Posted August 31, 2010 Yah likely we would do it on our own, I am just kinda lazy rent now. I was figuring, dig a hole, run a drain mix up cement, rent a quick cut saw and licky split barba trick.
tb4me Posted August 31, 2010 Report Posted August 31, 2010 Yah likely we would do it on our own, I am just kinda lazy rent now. I was figuring, dig a hole, run a drain mix up cement, rent a quick cut saw and licky split barba trick. lol barbra trick..now there's somthin I havent heard since I was a child..But seriously this isint somthing a typical homeowner can do. Id seek professional help (contractor) This way you have an idea what it would cost. Most companies provide free estamtes. You want to go with a company with a good reputation with cty hall and has thier own engineer as these guys can cost a fortune alone. Besides a good contractor will apply and get the permit for you. I know an engineer that loves to carge a small fortune to do up drawings.Brutal.Good luck
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