Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi there, I just finished re-packing my trailer wheel bearings for the first time. There is one/two questions I have though.

 

When putting the spindle nut back on, how tight should it be. I seem to be finding conflicting information. Some sites say tighten it tight,some say just finger tight (although when I tightened it finger tight, it wasn't on enough for me to fit the cotter pin through).

 

Also, should the wheel spin "freely" when done? What I mean, is will it be like a skateboard wheel so that when you spin it, it spins for 10 turns until it stops, or should you have to move the wheel with your hand in order to get it to turn?

 

Thanks for your help.

Posted

Hi there, I just finished re-packing my trailer wheel bearings for the first time. There is one/two questions I have though.

 

When putting the spindle nut back on, how tight should it be. I seem to be finding conflicting information. Some sites say tighten it tight,some say just finger tight (although when I tightened it finger tight, it wasn't on enough for me to fit the cotter pin through).

 

Also, should the wheel spin "freely" when done? What I mean, is will it be like a skateboard wheel so that when you spin it, it spins for 10 turns until it stops, or should you have to move the wheel with your hand in order to get it to turn?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I always finger tighten and the wheel should spin freely,similar to a bike wheel.

Posted

Hi there, I just finished re-packing my trailer wheel bearings for the first time. There is one/two questions I have though.

 

When putting the spindle nut back on, how tight should it be. I seem to be finding conflicting information. Some sites say tighten it tight,some say just finger tight (although when I tightened it finger tight, it wasn't on enough for me to fit the cotter pin through).

 

Also, should the wheel spin "freely" when done? What I mean, is will it be like a skateboard wheel so that when you spin it, it spins for 10 turns until it stops, or should you have to move the wheel with your hand in order to get it to turn?

 

Thanks for your help.

I usually torque to 30 ft lbs spin the wheel then back it off,after that I tighten the nut to 5 thou of play.No more than that.Thats what I do anyway,never had an issue.Hope that helps.
Posted

Since you have just repacked your bearings. You should put them on snug not tight spin the wheel while you are doing this when the wheel slows give it another hit just bump it kind of the turn back the nut so you can put the pin in the hole. This will seat your bearings properly.

 

If you just but it finger tight at this point the bearings may become loose a bit. You may not notice it but they can and this can where out your bearings.

 

This is how i was thought by my mechanic and since then i have not had any trouble with them

 

hope this helps you out

Posted

Make sure the bearings are seated,then finger tight should do it.push and pull the wheel and check for any accesive play in the bearings.

Posted

Pete, everyone has their own versions of how to adjust the wheel bearings. I would strongly suggest you have someone do it for you the first time while you watch them carefully. If not done correctly, you are setting up yourself for disaster on the side of the road somewhere.

Posted

Pete, everyone has their own versions of how to adjust the wheel bearings. I would strongly suggest you have someone do it for you the first time while you watch them carefully. If not done correctly, you are setting up yourself for disaster on the side of the road somewhere.

Correctamungo!Ive changed to many on the side of the rd.not mine,all service calls on the big rigs.And not fun at all esp 401 and qew corridor.If your in the armpit of ontario area pm me and ill help you out Pete.A local shop can help as well,shouldnt be more than a 1/2 labour charge to set the bearings.Thats if there not pulling the seal or wheel.

Posted (edited)

Tighten the spindle nut real good and tight all the way, give the wheel a few spins, loosen the nut(DO NOT MOVE THE WHEEL AT THIS POINT) and then tighten it back just snug, back of to the nearest cutter pin hole, insert the pin and you are good to go,

Edited by stonefish
Posted

Pete,

Thanks for posting this question....I will be doing mine soon and will probably need some of the same info. Good luck!

Posted

Tighten the spindle nut real good and tight all the way, give the wheel a few spins, loosen the nut(DO NOT MOVE THE WHEEL AT THIS POINT) and then tighten it back just snug, back of to the nearest cutter pin hole, insert the pin and you are good to go,

 

Tighten the spindle nut real good and tight all the way..You will never work on any equipment of mine that has bearings. We are not dealing with Terex Titans or transport trucks, it's a small trailer wheel bearing.

Posted

Tighten the spindle nut real good and tight all the way..You will never work on any equipment of mine that has bearings. We are not dealing with Terex Titans or transport trucks, it's a small trailer wheel bearing.

 

Please read my whole message before typing your sarcastic remarks.

you have to tighten them good to seat the bearings aka "Preloading The Bearings", You can then loosen it to just snug.

Please read under "PRELOADING THE BEARINGS" in the link below,

 

http://users.westco.net/~tandjlm/berring.htm

Posted

Do it according to specs and properly.Ive done way to many to count and just as many by feel.on the side of a highway or in the shop.That just goes with experience and my trade.Regardless.Do it properly,keep in mind that the bearings are greased and not oiled.If your not sure pete have a torque wrench handy and pm me.

Posted

Thanks guys, I feel pretty confident that I have done it right. I checked many sights and followed the instructions well.

I repacked the bearings with grease (good stuff)

Put the rear one in and tapped the seal back on with a block of wood

Put the hub back on and inserted the front bearing, spinning the wheel a bit until it seated

Tightened the hub nut hand tight, and then just slightly with a wrench. Spun the wheel around once.

Backed of the nut and hand tightened it, new cotter pin.

The wheel doesn't have any play in it whatsoever, and spins nicely (if I give it a spin, it turns fully around twice before stopping) and no grinding noise whatsoever...very smooth.

 

Correct me if I am wrong (please do), but if the bearings weren't seated right, wouldn't the wheel have a little play in it?

Posted

 

 

Correct me if I am wrong (please do), but if the bearings weren't seated right, wouldn't the wheel have a little play in it?

 

If the bearing is not seated properly (pre-loaded)the wheel might or might not show any play right away, but after a few kms on the road it will be pretty obvious, specially if you put it up on a jack.

I think you,ve done a good job.

don't forget to check grease after you tow for the first couple of times, feel the hubs for any sighns of over heating whenever you make a stop or just before launching your boat, a few degree above ambient temprature is ok, a very warm or hot to touch hub is a sighn of trouble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

×
×
  • Create New...