super dave Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 You can gently tap out your bearings on the islander. just be carefuly not to dent the seal. I believe islander puts in the bearing with a bit of blue locktight. Something I do to make my islander spin a bit better is to put a TINY dab of locktight on the thread of the screw and tighten only until you don't get any play in the reel. Let the lock tight dry and the screw is set. You can still get the screw off with a little bit of force but its on there tight enough that it won't come loose while fishing. Just be sure not to use the red lock tight. I think that stuff is permanent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solopaddler Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 You can gently tap out your bearings on the islander. just be carefuly not to dent the seal. I believe islander puts in the bearing with a bit of blue locktight. Something I do to make my islander spin a bit better is to put a TINY dab of locktight on the thread of the screw and tighten only until you don't get any play in the reel. Let the lock tight dry and the screw is set. You can still get the screw off with a little bit of force but its on there tight enough that it won't come loose while fishing. Just be sure not to use the red lock tight. I think that stuff is permanent. An alternative to loctight, simply wrap a small piece of 4lb test mono around the screw and put it in to a point where the reel spins good. Trim off the ends and you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 An alternative to loctight, simply wrap a small piece of 4lb test mono around the screw and put it in to a point where the reel spins good.Trim off the ends and you're good to go. That's a great idea!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnine Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 (edited) Thanks for asking, as I am an expert. It matters not what you buy, they will all be garbage in a year or two after you lay it in the water while you take photos. Or as twenty morons step on it while you all fight for your square yard of river bank. Best wishes! Jim Edited November 7, 2009 by Radnine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoneFly Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 LMAO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super dave Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Some fly tying thread works well too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillM Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 Thanks for asking, as I am an expert.It matters not what you buy, they will all be garbage in a year or two after you lay it in the water while you take photos. Or as twenty morons step on it while you all fight for your square yard of river bank. Best wishes! Jim Jim, I'll make sure to take as many pics as I can of my reel completely immersed in the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NAC Posted November 7, 2009 Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 I don't want a super light reel like the SST3 but I'm not looking for a heavy reel. It's going to be used for everything from small trout to big carp using light lines. So far the No.1 suggestion is the SST2. Provided it is a reputable maufacturer, the bearings and spool dia are all that really matter when it comes right down to it and the rest is just windowdressing. So why not go with the light one? I see the new Okuma Sheffield has an internal drag. Why? is it for beginners? So you set it in the range of a 8lb fish and hook an 18lb, what good is the drag then when you have try to set it while line is peeling out.... ouch! The old dragless model is $100 cheaper at around $230. no, I'm not an expert either..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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