Woodsman

I doubt the arrow shaft will fit in the door stopper. Even the thin dowel I used for the shaft required whittling down to fit in the stopper.

Here's the picture of the one I just finished. Hoping to try it out soon. Rick

I just finished making a similar one. I inserted a short piece of rod tip into the dowel. For the main post instead of a hockey stick I used a large diameter piece of dowel. The reason for this is I can now use a wood hole bit to drill a hole in the ice for the post to slip into. On warmer days for a hockey stick post, packing in slush does not work too good if the slush does not freeze. I also used a plastic reel for tip-up purchased at WalMart for $3. When paint dries and final assembly is finished I'll post a picture. Most likely tomorrow. Rick

Dr. S that is a good type. I'm in the process of building one quite similar.

Wildwood is just 10 mins the other side of Stratford for you. Safe ice should be soon if the weather keeps up. I'll be going to check it out soon & will post results. If I'm available I'd join you and I have an auger. Rick

I have a hard time with your statement "If and when I am caught and fined I will stop going to Ontario" that your basing your decision to continue to come to our province on not being able to break our laws without consequences. My guess with an attitude like that you would most likely skip out the province without paying the fine also. If you knowingly break a law you should be at least ready to pay the piper if caught and fined & not blame anyone but yourself.

Tip-ups/tip-downs is such a broad term. There are many different designs of which some work better than others for different situations. Let us know on what type/types of fish your targeting and if you are in a hut or in the open. Then maybe we can give you some suggestions on the better types of tip-ups for you. IMO the plan/design you have posted is one of the poor designs. The weight of the reel constantly holds up the arm. This will not be sensitive to light bites & will not react at all to a bait being lifted off the bottom like whitefish tend to. For fish like pike that run with the bait it should be OK. Good luck: Rick

That's funny they must have been really hammered to get anywhere near London on the Grand River. Sure you don't mean the Thames River?

The orange sections of the rod are far to thin to be made as a sliding unit. At the thickest it's 0.1" and at thinnest it's 0.056". Even the black part of the rod near the handle is only 0.2" thick. The rod is designed to be tuned to your intended uses. No one rod will be perfect for all situations. This rod can always be changed for a heavier lure weight but yes once the tip/s are gone their truly gone. The benefit of this rod is compared to a regular is that you can fine tune it to your needs. With a regular rod if it is too stiff or too limp your stuck with what you got or at least not a easy adjustment. If you plan on using jigs lighter than 1/8 oz this rod is not what your looking for. It wouldn't be my choice for jigs much over 1 oz either.

No Rob. The rod as shown is ready for jigs up to around 1/4 oz. For jigs 1/4-1/2 oz cut off one orange section or 3" total. For jigs 1/2-3/4 oz cut off 2 orange sections or 6" total. For jigs over 3/4 oz cut off all the orange sections or 9" total. The above weights are approximate. Start with one more section on the rod than mentioned and try it out. If you find the tip is bending too much, trim off another 3". You tune the rod for your intended uses.

If you look in the bottom right of the box in the post which you want to quote you will see a quote'' box. By clicking on this you will go to a new reply box. In the box you will see the entire post from the box you clicked the quote" box. The quote will be inside symbols similar to [ quote ] and [ /quote ]. Type your new comments outside of these symbols. If you wish to quote only part of the original post delete the parts not required. Just ensure you do not put words in the mouth of someone you are quoting or deleting parts as to misrepresent what was actually said.

Here's a pic of the 36" rod with a Quantum Ice IXR reel. The reel was on for $9.99. And a close up of the tip.

Yesterday I bought a new jigging rod at Angling Outfitters near Woodstock that is designed to be tuned to your jig weight for proper action and hook setting. They have them made for them & it is called the Simcoe Specialist. It starts out as a 36" ultralite rod with 6 guides. The last 4 guides extend in front of where they join the rod and can be used as the last guide. These are 3" apart. For jigging lures in the 1/2-3/4 oz range you cut off the last 2 sections just after the 4th guide for a total of 6" off the rod. For heavier lures you can could trim off one more section. For lighter lures you either leave as is or only trim off only the last 3". Where I plan on using this rod I usually use either a Williams ice jig(J60) or Rapala jigging rap(W7) so I will trim off 6". Seems like a well made rod for $19.99. I'm now thinking on how I'll use the left over 6" with 2 guides. I think it will become part of a homemade tip-up.

I also just picked up a jar of Gulp minnow heads (smelt) at Angling Outfitters just outside Woodstock. The smelt colour was the most natural looking to me. When you look at them they look like small tadpoles to me with grey tops & lighter bottoms. I have tipped my jigs with minnow heads quite often. The reason is not about short strikes but about scent trail. Half a minnow gives off a better scent trail than a whole minnow. This is also the reason for tearing the minnow in half as opposed to cutting it. A straight cut leaves less of a scent trail. If you do cut them use your knife to split up the cut some. I doubt the Gulp minnow heads will work as good as real ones but I will gladly admit it if I'm incorrect. Will try them this winter & hopefully soon.

If you had the same 5 (yes I said 5) sister in laws I do you'd never consider such a ridiculous frighting thought.

A big part of the cost will be labour. To change switch on many vehicles the steering wheel must first be removed then the column tore apart. Some vehicles may not need the wheel removed but still there is lots of labour getting to the switch and it's electrical connector further down in the column. Care must also be taken around the airbag system if in the wheel. On lots of vehicles the stalk(arm) can not be changed by itself but instead the whole switch assembly must be replaced. Most times the problem is not in the arm but within the switch inside the column. Time = money.

If it works when you turn on the dash lights then just remember to turn them on. Lot cheaper than replacing parts in the steering column for sure. Is the switch for your dash lights on your signal arm? If so it is most likely the multi-function switch. Rick

Are you sure your not seeing varying hare aka snowshoe rabbits. European hare aka jack rabbits are completely different animals.

For all those who are anti unions I'm sure you would be willing to give back all the benefits that unions were pivotal in getting as the normal. Give back your holidays & vacations. Health benefits gone also. Health & safety rules forget it. Decent pay?, $4 per hour sounds about right. Your work week would be a lot longer also with no time or energy left for fishing. To those who would say " the unions did nothing for me in getting what I get" or "government laws give me these things" no employer would offer these things or government legislate some of these things if the weren't the expected norm. For those who own their own businesses how would your businesses fare if the disposable incomes of Canadians were to drop drastically? I'm sure you are quite willing & happy to accept a portion of these unionized workers disposable income. If they have less you'll also get less. The leisure and entertainment industry would quickly see major drops in spending as would the service industries. When money is short people tend to do as much of their own work as they can or friends can help with. Corporations would expect to only pay $4 per hour without benefits which would leave no money for employees to put back into the economy. Think this is not true? Then why are some corporations moving jobs to Mexico for just this?

All I can say is that after the union has been in a legal strike position for quite a while but refrained from striking in hopes for a negotiated agreement and now they are on strike, the longer it lasts the more it will cost the city. Either get back to the table or agree to go to arbitration. Wasting time with they are the bad guys routine & trying to stir up some citizens will do nothing to settle the strike but will cost the city more in the long run & disrupt the citizens even more.

True much better phrased than the way I put it. Same meaning though.

Posted by one side of the issue. And yes it is a big # either way but there are 2 sides to every issue. You can't completely believe either side at this point of the process.

I never stated it was a 15% increase. That was someone else. I said if the city's figures could be believed it would be 15% over 3 years or 5% annually. I don't know what your getting at? 15% is 15% no mater the #'s in each group. Dollar amounts may differ but 15% is 15%. It's just like the #'s of employees in the lower wage group are far higher than those in the higher wage groups.

It is simple math. If the compensation package was the total of all costs involved in the cost of the bus service than yes the transit fees would have to increase 15 %. A few factors that effect that are: 1: Only a third of the increase will be applied each year. 2: These are the city's figures which I believe are not completely accurate. 3: Many other costs contribute to the total cost of the service. To blame to total increase on the contract demands is false. A common tactic of employers is not to factor the # of employees in each wage group into the % calculations. For example. IE: 85 employees at $15 10 employees at $19 5 employees at $26 Employers stated average wage $20.00. Were if you factor # in each category it's an actual average wage of $15.95. If all employees get a 2% increase than it's a 2 % in increase in wages. But many employers will use this formula when reporting to media. 2 % at $20 = $.40 average increase in wages. when actually it's 2 % at an average increase of $.32 with #'s of employees factored into each wage category. Statistic's are only as accurate as they are calculated and reported.

A few of points here. It's not a 15 % increase but an increase over 3 years. If you take the city's figures as complete fact ( I'm not inclined to) this would decrease the yearly increase to 5 %. You should also realize this is not just a wage increase but an upgrade to benefits that other city employees receive. Also if the compensation package added up to 15 % why would this add up to a 15 % increase in transit fees? Does the compensation package make up the whole cost of the transit system? I think not. There's upkeep to vehicles, new vehicle purchases, fuel, insurance and administration costs to name a few other factors. It's the city playing the big bad union card. "Its very simple economics" is it not? I won't even touch the " I don't mean this to sound nasty, but they drive buses. End of story. They don't save people's lives or run into burning buildings. Salaries have to match job level. Its very simple economics." as you seem to believe they are below the standards of needed services.