Lape0019

I had a long post written out but somehow lost it... Here is the coles notes. I use Shimano grease, oil and drag grease. Grease goes on worm gear, main gear and pinion and a little to hold the springs in place. Oil goes on bearings and drag grease goes on drag disc. When opening a reel, I was told to do it in a Ziploc back so you don't lose the springs or the spring clips that hold the bearings in on most reels. This has been a valuable tool and has saved me a lot of time. Every year I would lose at least 1 spring or spring clip and they are a pain to find on any surface. It really isn't that hard if you are handy but watch a few videos online to see how it is done before starting.

Gamakatsu G finesse wacky hook in 1/8 or 1/16oz weight with a wacky rigged Power team lures sick stick is something I throw almost every time I am out. My colour of choice is Dinner bell. I do not know what it is with this colour, but it works.

Double post

First off, nice fish pics! Secondly, your boat was gorgeous but I totally understand your reasoning for letting her go. If my boat only got used that often, it would be for sale quite quickly.

Pretty much what I think every time the MNR releases something here... But at least alligator far are native to the area there.

Bass Trap, Don't worry too much about that hull cracking. I read most of the reports that were out there before buying mine and it seemed to be more focused on the 175 and the Avalanche (this one was bad and I think a fellow member her had his sink). I've seen a few reports since then of cracks in the hull but no more than any other boat. Treat it right and drive within the conditions and you'll be fine. And yes, my charger is actually mounted on the wall of my garage. I pull the boat into the bay and put the battery clips to the terminals and plug in the charger. Probably takes me 30 seconds more than if I had it in the hull already hooked up. My main concern was that the boat already sits low in the back of the water and I didn't want to make it worse. Probably wouldn't make much of a difference but I figured why not as the charger was already setup for it.

I sandwiched three batteries back there when I upgraded. It can be done. My starting battery is a 24 but my trolling batteries are 27s. I could have gotten away with 29s I think but the 27s haven't given me an issue in 4 seasons. As for a battery charger, I bought a used MK330. It was considerably heavier than the old one I took out. Because of that, I didn't mount the motor in the back of the boat. I could have but it would have added more weight back there. So, between removing the old one and installing a second battery back there, I figure I added 10lbs or so to the total weight. I'm not saying you should do this, but just giving you options. When I bought my charger used, the guys had clips on it already so I didn't have to do anything.

I sandwiched three batteries back there when I upgraded. It can be done. My starting battery is a 24 but my trolling batteries are 27s. I could have gotten away with 29s I think but the 27s haven't given me an issue in 4 seasons. As for a battery charger, I bought a used MK330. It was considerably heavier than the old one I took out. Because of that, I didn't mount the motor in the back of the boat. I could have but it would have added more weight back there. So, between removing the old one and installing a second battery back there, I figure I added 10lbs or so to the total weight. I'm not saying you should do this, but just giving you options. When I bought my charger used, the guys had clips on it already so I didn't have to do anything.

Ecmilly, That's an 18.5 foot bass tracker. It was for the longest time the larger mod v bass boat tracker made. The 46lb TM it came with was adequate in perfect conditions but terrible in anything over a 6" chop. I was fishing on lake st Francis with mine one day and all the Motorguide would do was allow me to turn left or right. It would not allow me to troll into the waves at all. A 55 would possibly do it for the 17.5 model but this PT190 needs a 24v at minimum.

Look on the back of the merc and you will see a white sticker with your model number on it. It will also have a mad rpm on it. Mine is 5500 but the governed doesn't kick in until 6200. If you look online with the serial number, you can find a lot of info on it. On eBay, search wire cover and you should get a few results. Moving the motor up or down on the transom is something that two guys can do but if you're not comfortable doing this type of thing, it's better to have a marina with the proper tools do it. And then there is the trim switch which I'll assume you are already using. The place I was getting the speeds I quoted was here. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/tracker.htm Just search 190 and you'll find a few guys running 21p props. It'll give you a good idea as to what they are all running. Their forums (tin boats) is also a great resource for people with frackers and little more they've done. They are running stainless for the most part which are typically a little faster because they don't lose shape. Your holeshot will be a little worse though as it will take longer for a bigger prop to spool up. I notice a difference between my 17 and 19.

Hey Bass Trap, I'll start by saying your speed is too low. I've got the same boat with an 06 75 fourstroke and can hit 38 at WOT. I've had the boat since 2010 and still love it. I think you'll be happy with it! Also, most guys with the 90 are running between 44 and 47MPH. There is one guy running a tad faster biut he's running a 5.5" jackplate which if you care, will void a transom warranty which depending on your boat, you may or may not have. Secondly, the big difference between a stainless prop and an aluminum is the way they flex, an aluminum prop if say a 21p under load with flex to a 20 of 19p prop it just doesn't have the same rigidity. A stainless won't lose its shape at all. What is on there now (size and pitch) and what hole is the motor mounted on as it looks a little low to me. Mine was raised one hole when I got it so I'm assuming Tracker sets them low at the factory. Fishfinder? Take a look around, you may be able to find a new old core unit from Humminbird. I know Paddletales in Winchester (call him, he will ship out if you're interested) still had a 959di for under your price range and radioworld.ca had a few the last time I checked. If you want a helix, get the biggest screen you can afford. I'd rather a helix 9 with 2d sonar over a helix 5 or 7 with si just so I could see more of the chart while running and so would not be easy to see in a 5" screen. MG pro series 46? Absolute junk of a trolling motor. I upgraded to an 80lb MK terrova with ipilot and couldn't be happier. I upgraded everything from the 8 or 10 guage wire to 6 guage wire. Installed a new MK plug and breaker at the same time. I had just spent a lot in a TM and didn't want some old stuff to fail. Many people will run a 24 in existing wiring but I wanted to make sure I wasn't harming anything. Plus, there is a link on the MK site that shows you what they recommend for the length of wire used. In my case, I needed 6 guage. Now, I do run Rod socks on all of my rods. It's more about trying to protect the rods but man it makes it easier to take them out of the Rod locker. You can buy a large role if that fabric on eBay and grab some heat shrink tubes and make your own for way less. Plus, it's way cheaper. As for a leaning the hull, I haven't found anything that isn't labour intensive. I have polished the hull once and it looked great! It lasted well for a season with a wipe down with a spray wax after every dunk but the lines are back now. Water spots are a pain but the same spray wax does an alright job on them. I use the meguires stuff but there are better products out there. If you e got any other questions about the boat, let me know and I'll be happy to help!

I'm more interested in why they want half your land? They will never tell you they expect a land conveyance. They want you in a position where you would be hard pressed to turn down the offer.

Is that Canadian or USD? Either way, you will be glad you picked it up for that price as I can't see it going for less than the 13 Metanium we currently have.

As you have already seen, the MGL is already available at quite a few Japanese stores. I've got the 13metanium XG that I am currently using for frogs and a Metanium DC that I use for lighter Texas. The MGL is supposed to be about as smooth but seems to casts further with some weights. I believe it was lighter weights but can't remember. No matter which one you go with, I can say you would be happy with it.

Only difference is ergonomics.

I take the weight of the plastic into account. considering a normal senko weighs about 3/8 of an ounce and a craw can weigh much more, I definitely pay attention to it. Does this mean I never overload my rods? No. Some of my rods take the extra weight very well while others don't. My jig rod doesn't seem to care. My texas rig rod on the other hand, sucks if overloaded.

So is the Ci4 really a ci4+ or the older Ci4 that had the round porting on the spool? The FJ is an older reel as well. I've had 2 CI4 reels (the original) and would buy another in a heartbeat. I sold one and kept one but I'll probably be buying another shortly. With a month before Icast, I would honestly wait and see what is going to be released, Japan to released a new Stradic Ci4 which would lead me to beleive there will be some deals coming up here for the ci4+ and a new version being released at icast.

Accuweather is what I use when it comes to the fishing season. It seems to be very very good. It hasn't let me down yet.

303 is what was recommended to me as well.

I've used super slick in the past and didn't like it. I really had no issues with it but the regular PP cuts through weeds better. That is the only difference while in the water I saw. It just happened to be a major difference for me and my style of fishing. If you want something that will cast very well, super slick is the way to go IMO.

I charge the deep cycles and the starting battery after each use. I do not run enough during the day to keep the charge up. On a typical after work outing, the cranking battery is fully charged within 5-20 minutes. When I have just finished a tournament with livewell pumps/recirc on all day and the fish finder on all day, it takes a lot longer even after making a few runds here and there.

I have an older MK 330. 10 amps per bank and 3 banks. Its at least ten years old and I bought it used off of a guy who just didn't need it anymore. He had placed alligator clips on it and as I was adding another battery (because I installed an 80lb terrova), I figured I would just leave it out of the boat. I pull the boat into the garage and have it clipped up in 10 seconds more than it would just take me to plug the charger in. I mention this because in my circumstance, the size of the charger is irrelevant. My 10 amp per bank charger will charge all batteries after a day of use in about 4 hours. This is why people are saying stay away from the trickle chargers as you would double or triple that time frame. My old charger was a Guest 4/4 (2 banks and 4amps per bank). It took 8-12 hours to fully charge the batteries.

Strait braid mostly. I do have another rod I throw buzzbaits with that has mono but 90% of the time, its 30 pound braid.

Call Ed at Paddletales Tackle. I am pretty sure he has a few cables in stock. He is in Winchester Ontario but he will ship it out to you if you ask.

TH Marine G Force handle. Looks really well built and should last you a few seasons instead of a few weeks/months.