RangerGuy

Yup look all things could have turned out much worse LOL!.. Nope it's a 1990 Chev Pickup.. break downs are/were expected but it's been so long since anything has gone wrong with her I kind over trusted it HAHA! Oh well.. truck shoping now

What a week last week. 1) Wednesday we had a busted gas line infront of my office. Can't get my car till 5:30. RESULT: A) I loose a training session with my pup at a crucial time. Miss getting to West Marine for some supplies to finishing rigging the boat for the weekend. 2) On the way home from training Thursday night.. somebody cause a huge accident on the 400 & 89, means I'm stuck on the 400 for 2.5 hours. 3) Friday on the way to the cottage..I blow my brakes in my truck with the new boat on the back ARGH!!.. Turns out I have 3000+ in repairs to do with my truck and there really is no point since it's sooo old..and clearly ready to retire. We wanted 2 more years out of her So now I have a new boat in the drive way and nothing to tow it with! I've had this truck for 6 yrs with no issues that were making it unreliable..but it needs tires, leaf springs and I find that the front end is shot as well as it needs a full replacement of brakes. Hope this week turns out better HAHA!

Good luck selling your pups.. I have a intact female as well who has not gone into heat yet... and I am very concerned how fast this can happen by mistake LOL!

Wondering why a Labrador & Doberman were crossed... Was this an accidental breeding?

WOW! Great Job!... You now have one of the toughest/best looking boats on the water My last boat was a 1989 Ranger Fisherman Tiller.. So pretty much the same vintage. I think I read somewhere you were concerned with the transom. DON'T BE! Here's why.. I was rear ended a couple weeks after buying my Ranger Fisherman. The goof hit me while I was stopped at a red light with a full size GM Pickup. Yes he was talking on a cell phone! Anyways, he literally pushed me and the boat 1/2 way through the intersection. The hit took 2 blades off the prop, crushed my transom support bar and that's it. I had no pressure cracks or anything in my transom , I had the boat & motor inspected at a marine repair shop just to be safe. Great job man! Enjoy

I might do that as well Sinker hehehe! Oh and if you know anybody selling a used avery quick set blind the 18-20' model. I'd be very grateful if you pm me thier contact info

From what I've read about mounting trandsucers on riveted aluminum boats is you have to treat the rivets as the bottom when setting the depth of the transducer. So your transducer has to be deeper than the rivets so as to get smooth water to pass under it, often guys will complain about a rooster tail coming from it and build a sheild that screws to the transducer plate above the transducer bracket to deflect the spray down. For me I have an issue because my boat is a duck boat as well so will be either sitting on the bottom or very close so I have to remember to tilt the ducer up before setting it into shore, which kind of sucks cause I know I'm gonna forget haha!

I wanted to thru bolt but I can't see how to get to the inside of the transom. The area is sealed off and side plate blocking the area is riveted. But really thru bolt is not required for a transducer plate. Stainless steel metal screws create threads in the hole as they are screwed in and tighten up nicely. Atlease they did for me Man that 3M 5200 cures nice, it's like hard rubber and gave a SOLID seal.

I used the slow cure 3M 5200 because I couldn't find black in the fast cure. I applied it Thursday evening and today I noticed its almost fully cure like a hard rubber Instructions say 5-7 days. My manual actually says to install it below the water line and to seal with silicone. Now that I've looked closer at my hull. I'd prefer it below the water line because I have no wood just aluminum nothing to rot. If you get a leak it would just be into the bilge and you would notice and can reseal it.

Checked out the wiring in my Lund Alaskan this evening. Anybody know what these wires are for from the main panel? Here's a pic from the wiring harness at the transom. I metered them all and the only ones that had power were the red & black leeds with the main power on or off.

When I was shopping around I liked the merc big tiller handle and Yamaha tiller handle. I choose Yamaha I didn't like that merc wanted to charge for variable troll on top of the cost of the tiller arm. I got 6 hours on my 75 Tiller and I am very pleased. I'm comin from a 89 60 Johnson 2stroke tiller. So not a fair comparison really.

The plate is so that you only have to drill holes in your hull once.. If I change a transducer or add one I don't need to drill more holes into the boat.. just the mounting plate.. make sense?

I put sleeves on my light walleye rods but that's it ..but I will do all of them now..since I don't have a carpeted rod locker anymore.

Don't have an answer but I would check EVERY connection in the boat.. if you can see your main power wires look for a kink or pinch. Sounds to be something simple like a short. You said it ran fine in the driveway then you towed it down the street and it wouldn't go.

Just checked the board while home for lunch.... It's flexing a bit in the heat.. so I think I'm gonna put another screw in the center and fill the screw hole with the sealant first to help combat the flexing... Today is a good test for the board expanding since it's stinking hot out LOL!

Hope he gets thrown behind bars for the full term and then deported when his term is up!!!!

Thanks I actually ended up getting the piece from Peidmount plastics. I just could not get to Hamilton and wanted to be in person to order to make sure it was the right size. I know, I know I worry to much. Man that 3M 5200 stuff takes along time to cure it's still very soft. I noticed some bubbling this morning so I popped them with a small nail and dripped some in the tiny holes. If when this stuff hardens up a bit and I still have a few bubbles on the top of the joint. I'll re-tape and cut them out and re-run the top seal... The war against water continues HAHA! I still don't get why they don't run wood all the way to the bottom.. would be much easier for mounting stuff.

Wow! that looks like a rocket!!! Congrats!!

So I got the transducer plate installed. I was happy that I could raise the board up a little higher than 1/4 inch and still get the transducer all the way below the boat at the lowest setting. I haven't installed the ducer just held it up before pre-drilling the holes. I do not like working on aluminum hulls. I much prefer glass way easier to correct if you make a mistake hahaha! Now I have to wait 5-7 days for the 3M 5200 to cure Anyways, I was very surprised to not hit any wood when I pre-drilled the mounting holes. I thought the entire transom was wood surrounded by aluminum. This does concern me a bit. I hope the screws hold Here she is I think it worked out well. Sorry for the formatting I'm on my phone.

Do the revo's have a flipping switch?

Good Luck in the job hunt.. Been there myself.. don't let it get ya down...I will keep my ear open as well.. We don't have much in the way of sales... shoot me a PM with your skill set and I'll pass it on. Cheers!

This week FOR SURE!

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Yup I had a guest on my Ranger.. never failed in 4 years.. sold it with the ranger cause I would have had to pull the gas tank to get it out. It was low for sure.. I think I could come up another whole but not gonna bother right now. The top of the plate is right at the surface when trimmed.. So I'll run it like that for a bit and see how I like it. Motor sounds totally different it doesn't sound like it's working as hard. I was actually test running on your home waters Lew ... couldn't find a ramp close enough on near the marine. Figured the water would be smooth with all the wind yesterday but even there was fairly choppy.

Took the boat to Hastings Marine where I purchaced it to have the motor raised up 1 mounting hole and ask about the prop etc... They did the motor lift right away for me, first thing. Let me say I really liked the mechanics there they were very friendly and helpful. Sometimes mechanics don't like customers around while they do the work and I can totally understand that, not these guys they were great. The result of the motor being raised was just the thing. When on plane with no trim at all the bow kind of dives.. As I apply trim I can see/feel it come up and the speed increase with no porpusing. Top speed increased to 38.4mph @ 6000rpm. This is about as fast as I'd want to go in this boat..she felt a little hairy in the wind yesterday at wide open and the motor takes a little more work to handle than before but still not a big deal. We didn't change the prop because the motor is running right where it should be and not hitting the rev limiter. I've read a few post where the merc props have totally removed all vibration from the tiller handle even at slow speeds (which by the way is the only time I notice any viberations ) So when I recover from all the recent add on purchaces .. I may try one. On a side note... I've heard these boats "Alaskans" are wet rides.. Not sure what kind of water they were running in but I just out of curiosty went through a large cruiser wake, ran around a wake a bunch of times just to test this. I will say this with confidence that this boat is 10 times dryer and smoother than my old Ranger of the same wieght. In defence of the Ranger it was an 89' hull so technology has improved greatly since them. Now to install our add-ons: -Finish crimping battery connections -Transducer Mounting Plate -24volt 80lbs Terrova/ipilot -798ci HD SI Hummingbird -Garmin 276c (from previous boat) -30 amp Guest onBoard charger She's gonna be awesome... thank you everybody for the input and help