blue pickeral

While respectful of your wisdom on this forum, I have to question the benefits of an outhouse - other than the obvious better than the deep wood dump scenario - a pile of ecoli simply spreads out through the water table over time, particularly in rock/clay layers. Dumping lye etc. just (somewhat) keeps down the smell. No treatment of raw sewage occurs as in other systems.

Been through this, although somewhat earlier....if you are at the age where you can afford it, won't be long before you'll be at the age when you'll appreciate convenience. Get the closer property. You will start out 'rustic' - my first camp had propane only- but as time passes and family spreads out, such things as cell and internet come in real handy. As for road building, survey a route, cut down trees, get a contractor with bull dozer, add gravel to your initial goat track when you can afford it. Have no experience with composting toilets, but an approved septic system works well without 'handling' of waste or use of power. Outhouse - illegal now I think - not very good - doesn't process sewage.

I think Red Green did this on one of his shows a couple of years ago.

As per Mark Twain "reports of my death are exagerated" happens all the time. Just quicker with all this twittering that's going on. (buncha birds)

A man's car blows its radiator fluid by a farmer's house. The farmer has the man in for a cup of tea while the car cools off, before they refill the radiator. Man notices a pig with a woooden leg rooting around in the farmer's back yard. When asked how the pig got its wooden leg, farmer replies that the house once caught on fire and the pig came through the flames, woke up the farmer and his wife, and led them through the smoke to safety. The farmer's wife goes on to relate that the pig once saved the farmer when the tractor tipped over, pinning him beneath it. The pig dug a trough and freed the farmer. "But how did the pig get the wooden leg?" "Well son, around here, folks don't eat a pig like that all at once."

Please do not do this. I used heavy gauge CT booster cables once to extend wiring to a starter battery and within a year, the insulation fell off! Did not notice as it was a hidden run, but could have been a disaster grounding to aluminum hull! I bought proper marine cable at Port Whitby Marine, likely other marine supply places have it.

Not exactly sure what you're gluing, but had good success with Mr. Sticky Poly Binder, gluing poly plastic to aluminum. You can source from the web site at Pride Marine in Kingston. An internet search will reveal how to 'burnish' plastic material with blow torch prior to gluing.

Was not able to get away this past weekend, however, did some internet digging which might help you find a tach. The tach I used was the Quicksilver International II series - part number 79-825348A1. You can get a look at one here: (sorry for the long url) http://www.marinepowerservice.com/BoatingStore/browse_parts3_kel.cf m/the_start/17/sort_mfg/0/sort_price_from/0/sort_price_to/0/sort_pr oducts/0/parent_cat/443085/parent_cat1/454915/parent_cat2/451425/pa rent_cat3/454052/parent_cat4/454221/layout/detail/display/16.cfm (search www.marinepowerservice.com if url doesn't work) Unfortunately, an application chart is not on this site, but a Mercury dealer could help you out with the right model. There were four wires on it - +12 volt for power, a ground, +12 volt for gauge backlighting, and the wire that ran to where it picked up signals from the outboard. I can't remember where it hooked up, but it was a simple spice/connection to an existing connector. The directions that come with the tach also have a list of engine types and which 'settings' are used....you use a small screwdriver to choose the correct pulse. Hope this will be of help. I have a side console model with throttle/gear box, but should be similar to the wiring harness/outputs of a tiller.

I have a 2001 Merc 4 stroke 40 hp. Was pretty easy to hook up following directions with the unit. Unfortunately don't have access to part number etc. but will look up this weekend if still interested.

Other choices? -the TAX and SPEND NDP? -the Christian right wing wacko Conservatives?

If you are using the trailer in the winter, would suggest not using the LED lights. The incandescent bulbs generate enough heat to melt snow in a storm. The LED's get covered and render you invisible to following drivers in the dark.

Larry's Economy Sandblasting - Magnetewan, ON - he's in the book. $350.00 for complete sand blast and 3 coats of Tremclad.

Am starting similar mounting on an aluminum transom. A google search will reveal quite a few pictures (or the Lowrance site) as to best positioning of transducer with regard to hull profile. One other tip I recieved was ensure mounting board (i.e. starboard) was a 1/4 inch above the bottom where transom meets bottom hull. Was advised that a 1/2 inch cutting board would work as a mounting board, but got a piece of starboard for the UV resistance and anti solvent properties. Was advised to use a product called Mr. Sticky's Poly Binder as an adhesive, although an email yesterday from the company www.mrstickys.com advised that mechanical fastening above the waterline in addition to the glue on aluminum would be the best method.(glue available Pride Marine in Kingston by mail order from on line catalogue) Before using the glue, 'burnishing' the starboard with a propane torch is required. There is a description step by step process outline on the mrstickys web site. Not at my work computer right now, for the URL but a video of the process is on Metacafe and Youtube.The glue itself looks like a pretty handy thing to have around as it will work on a number of 'unglueable' plastics - gas tanks etc. A search for 'working with King starboard' will provide details on how to bend starboard if the bottom of your transom has a slight curvature to it. (heat gun on sale Can Tire this week - $10) The Poly Binder will hold its thickness if you want to fill the space with the glue. Hope to get at my own mounting project within the next couple of weeks, will see how it goes.

Well, if your house burns down....okay, put the documents in a zip file with a password.

Just to build on this, scan your documents, attach to an email to yourself on an 'online' mail such as Yahoo.com, then you can access them practically anywhere....i.e. lost driver's license in another province, lost passport in foreign country etc.

I think the larger packs are on sale, but you only get a dollar off the whole large pack. The smaller ones are a dollar off each pack of 3. Don't have the variables here to do the math. Check in store I guess.

Thanks to a previous tip on this forum, tried the Starbucks instant coffee and found it to be pretty good - but pricey. Three 240 ml servings for $3.50. (and measuring 240 mls. might be tough as times) As of yesterday, each 3 serving packet was on sale for a dollar off. Might want to stock up. Not sure how long the sale will last. Available in medium, strong, and decaf.

Have 3 Toyotas, but not a brand fanatic. A few related ideas that might be helpful: -there are quite a few 'brand' specific internet forums from which you can find common problems inherent in each car. When researching a Toyota Echo back in 2004, there was so little that went wrong with the cars, some of the female members were posting racy pictures of themselves! A good forum for Toyota is www.toyotanation.com. Enabled me to download all Technical Service bulletins, and as variable speed intermittent wipers are an absolute for me, saved $1,500 learning that a snap in module could be bought for $100, which saved going to the upward 'options' package in which it was included. Also was able to keep track of major changes in models, that as being newly instituted, might not have the 'bugs' worked out yet. -join the Automobile Protections Agency - www.apa.ca - their new car purchase service enables a pre-arranged no haggle price from dealers with which they have pricing agreements. Bought wife's Corolla through this, and knowing invoice price of a truck before hand enabled good price with a non-APA dealer and better trade in value. Have no experience with CarCostCanada, but many people use this as well. No pre-arrange pricing. -Have heard that the Matrix/Vibe are essentially the same vehicle, so better pricing might be available by a 'go between' dealers. After purchase servicing might be easier having two brand facilities to choose from. -finding a manual transmission these days might be problematic. Waited 3 months for factory order for truck as no standards on anyone's lots. -as far as buying North America is concerned, despite the location of assembly - Canada, US, Mexico = most of the parts are from this continent anyway. -for certain vehicles where the warranty is 'no haggle' throughout North America (check the APA web site) you may be able to buy an extended warranty from a US dealer for less than half the Canadian price at time of purchase. For Toyota/Ford owners for instance, a fellow named Troy Dietrich in Greenfield, Mass. sells the authentic (not 3rd party) warranties to Canadians after they have owned the vehicle for 1 year. Purchased a 7 year, 160K, $0 deductible, all inclusive (except for wearable parts)for $950.00 US. Simple process using mail and call in Visa number. A google will bring up the site. (not sure of forum rules with regard to commercial links)

Have recently purchased an HDS 5 sonar unit for which I am attaching the transducer to the transom of an aluminum hull Lund SSV16 boat. As we anticipate renting some dock space for the summer months, need good quality material that resists UV, oil, gas, etc. The Star Board is pricey, but apparently the best for the job. Plan to bolt piece to transom above water line on bolt, with added 3M 5200 adhesive on transom section below/at water line. There is a marine place in Kingston I can order it from, but was wondering if anyone knew an outlet closer to east GTA where I cnould actually get my hands on the material to judge proper thickness? Any ideas, tips, or similar experiences shared would be appreciated!

For those who 'missed' the sale and are shopping for an HDS 5, Radio World's price on them (basic US map) is $100.00 less expensive than the $800.00 charged at Bass Pro Shop. (although you can see a demo running on it there) There were at least 2 in stock in the store yesterday (Wednesday) and some will be at the Sportsman's Show. Radio World is not far from BPS, but know your route in advance as there is no exit going south on hwy 400 to Steeles. (not only did I miss an exit for BPS, but got to see Finch Ave twice doing a loop de loop)

Thanks for all the very helpful replies! Made a chronological list of pointers and printed out -technique is coming along...tape tip was very helpful. Looked like 'KungFu' out there 'becoming one' with reel and rod....removed tape for one last cast in anticipation of spooling on heavier line as suggested, plug and line drift through the air in a beautiful arc and entranced, forget to use thumb....as mentioned in thread....kept me from getting smug! Thanks again.

I get you...After doing the 'dangling' to match reel with lure weight, click button, light thumb pressure on line on reel, draw back arm, nice easy motion forward with a quick push, release thumb, not sure if I get a twist in the wrist at this point or not! When plug hits surface, apply thumb again to stop line going out although am under impression braking should take place?

Good topic - if you want to have a magical day around the camp in the winter, or in cool weather, bake yourself up a batch of home made beans (I got started by using the recipe on the back of the Thompson white pea beans package and 'adapting' later - favourite addition Kraft Brown Sugar barbeque sauce) and at the same time use Guy Fiero's (sp?) (chef with the spikey blond hair) pulled pork recipe. You can find it on the American version of the Food Channel web site. Both cook at the same temperature - the beans about 8 hours, the pulled pork about 10, but the cooking aroma is wonderful as is the eating!

Thanks! Will try this out first thing tomorrow!

First off, I know it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools for bad results. However, would like some feedback from forum members as to the relative ease of use with a Pflueger Trion bait caster. For a couple of years now, I have been trying to master casting with it. I have followed instructions, made the brake and tension adjustments, downloaded videos from Utube - the one how to untangle a bird's nest came in handy - but about every 5th cast goes haywire. Today I was out on the ice on our lake, well away from branches or other snags, with a nice weighty plastic practice plug (did get to tell a curious neighbour I was ice fishing) but still can't get much consistency. Would I be better off just to get another one that would be easier to use?