Canoe2fish Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 (edited) Hey guys...I know this doesn't even come close to fishing question, but I would like to know your opinions. I'm looking into replacing my roof this year. I'm going with the fancy looking shingles (texture that more resembles cedar shakes) and was thinking of going with metal valleys because I get alot of leaves and seeds falling on the roof from the large surrounding trees. I had one estimator tell me that they splice or overlap shingles in the valleys instead of using metal flashing. To me I can't see how the junk would wash down to the gutters as easily this way. (I get so much crap up there, I have to walk the roof three times a year with the leaf blower and clean out the gutters...yes I plan to add gutter screens in the near future!) What do you folks think...Should I opt for metal valley flashings only? Thanks in advance. Edited July 16, 2007 by Canoe2fish
Roy Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 Definitely metal flashings. I would also insist on self adhesive membrane at least 4' up from the eaves. Good luck.
BLACKFISH88 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 Ya what Roy said Ice and water shield I believe it's called.
bigbuck Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 The Ice and Water membrane that goes up 4ft is pretty much standard (it's code). With all of the junk you get, I'd insist on metal valleys (aluminum). It'll cost a few bucks extra but will be worth it in the long run. The textured shingles are nice as well.
Wes Bender Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 I was a roofer for 10 years, before I smartened up, so here is my 2 cents. Most roofers will tell you they close the valleys because it looks good. 9 times out of 10 it is because they can't make an open valley (metal showing) look good as well as not leak. I used to do both with no problems. But I do like the look of a closed valley only because metal will rust in time. Even galvanized metal will rust over time. I always use metal even when the valleys are closed. It doesn't cost much more and it is another line of defense. We also used a row of Ice & Water shield at the eves. and a layer of tar paper under the metal down the valley.
pikehunter Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 As stated about the ice shield and metal valleys. And don't forget the DRIP EDGE! I have been in the window, door and siding business for a long time and I am amazed to see people putting new roofs on and not do everything! I encounter water damage weekly from cheap roofing jobs. Pay the few extra bucks and get it done right.
pigeonfisher Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 I have a product called "stone coated steel". We have a very large roof and this product was comparable to midlevel 35 year shingles. Where are you located? Maybe I could put the guy in touch with you for a quotation. Stone Coated Steel We liked the look of it as the stones removes that glare that can be associated with steel roofs. The stone also takes out the element of fading.
POLLIWOGG Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 I avoided roofing for 30 years with a few lapses in judgment. I would think closing a valley without metal would be a recipe for disaster if you have any ice damming. If your looking for the look of shakes, I'm pretty sure I've never seen shakes weaved into a valley.
Wes Bender Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 As stated about the ice shield and metal valleys. And don't forget the DRIP EDGE! I have been in the window, door and siding business for a long time and I am amazed to see people putting new roofs on and not do everything! I encounter water damage weekly from cheap roofing jobs. Pay the few extra bucks and get it done right. This is what happens when your out of something for a few years. You forget. Yes by all means get the drip edge. I always put it on unless the customer was cheap and didn't want to pay. Polliwogg Weaving a cedar shake valley can be done. I did it. It is a real pain in the bass to do but thats what the customer wanted so who am I to argue right. It turned out great. It took a long time though. take a look HERE
Canoe2fish Posted July 16, 2007 Author Report Posted July 16, 2007 (edited) Thanks for the input guys. I have a product called "stone coated steel". We have a very large roof and this product was comparable to midlevel 35 year shingles. Where are you located? Maybe I could put the guy in touch with you for a quotation. Stone Coated Steel We liked the look of it as the stones removes that glare that can be associated with steel roofs. The stone also takes out the element of fading. I do like the look of these though my budget will surely prohibit them. I still have a lot of other reno items on the list, so I have to keep it tight. POLLIWOGG Posted Today, 01:03 PM I avoided roofing for 30 years with a few lapses in judgment. I would think closing a valley without metal would be a recipe for disaster if you have any ice damming. If your looking for the look of shakes, I'm pretty sure I've never seen shakes weaved into a valley. They do it frequently in my area and I do think it looks the best...but think the tree debris will hang up in the corners. (No?) Edited July 16, 2007 by Canoe2fish
crappiesteve Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 Canoe2fish,Go with the metal valleys,and ice@water under it,and on your eaves to.With the weave in the valley the leaves will stay in the valley,and thats what you do not want,with the metal valley the leaves will have a better chance of flowing off than the shingle weaves...and like MTP said DON,T forget the Drip edge.Are you doing the job yourself,or contracting it out.All you need to make your valleys look good is make sure you chalk line the valleys,and that will give you a nice finnish.What is the pitch of your roof. Steve
ecxstriper Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 I don't like the look of an open metal valley but do install all valleys with metal under a single cut valley with ice and snow shield on top of the metal as well have never had a call back with this set up
POLLIWOGG Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 Wes Bender I'd have to do some serious head scratchin to figure out how to weave shakes. I've done them a few times, first was when the guy that started the job stepped back through a skylight, after working shakes for a day, I think he jumped.
ch312 Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 not to hijack but its related to roofing... what type of roofing should i use on a roof that barely has any slope. i believe its 22ft long, 12ft wide with a 8" slope or so im guessing. i raised the one side 18" so now there is barely any slope at all but before it just had normal shingles.
Canoe2fish Posted July 17, 2007 Author Report Posted July 17, 2007 Canoe2fish,Go with the metal valleys,and ice@water under it,and on your eaves to.With the weave in the valley the leaves will stay in the valley,and thats what you do not want,with the metal valley the leaves will have a better chance of flowing off than the shingle weaves...and like MTP said DON,T forget the Drip edge.Are you doing the job yourself,or contracting it out.All you need to make your valleys look good is make sure you chalk line the valleys,and that will give you a nice finnish.What is the pitch of your roof. Steve Thanks Steve. Some things are left to the pro's. Besides, then I have a warranty if I go with a reputable contractor. As my neighbor said; "If you have 5 friends help you replace your roof, you will end up doing 6 roofs in the end" Pitch is 7-12, should look nice with the shake style.
pikehunter Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 "If you have 5 friends help you replace your roof, you will end up doing 6 roofs in the end" So true! So true! That was good for a morning chuckle
crappiesteve Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 (edited) ch312,your roof is what they call a lowslope roof,they use to make lowslope shingles,not anymore,what you can do is two ways of covering itwith ice@water or cover it all with base sheet with which ever shingle you want,but make sure you cover the whole area,do to the fact that there is hardly any picth to your roof.Hope this helps. Steve Edited July 17, 2007 by CrappieSteve
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