Removing JB Weld-NF

[Black_Blade]

Just wondering if anybody else has ever been in a situation where you needed to remove our favourite repair epoxy JB Weld. I have a 12 foot Sportspal, that some previous owner thought he would repair its leaky seams with JB.

 

I had dropped by the Sportspal place today and picked up a repair kit and some extra sealant (kit comes with one tube) to redo a repair I had done to a hole in my 14 foot transom model Sportspal a few yrs back. It has also started seeping from other spots as well, where the sealant has worn down to the screws from rubbing etc. I had asked them at the time what they thought would be the best way to tackle the JB on my other canoe and they really had no suggestions.

 

I'm thinking either to carefully grind or wire wheel the stuff off, or since its brittle stuff, to maybe tap the inside of the hull to see if it will loosen or break off the compound. This would require removing the foam and ribs and that looks like just a whole bunch of fun to get back in properly!

 

Anyhow, just putting it out there, to see if anyone else might have tackled something similar and has some suggestions.

[Big Cliff]

Grind off what you can without damaging the hull then sit down with a dremel tool and grind off the rest. If it was put on properly in the first place you shouldn't be able to break it off. A nice fresh clean surface will be better for your new repair anyway.

[Old Ironmaker]

If you listen to Big Cliff you will do it right. I have done exactly the same thing on some previous repairs. That stuff ain't cheap but I have some repairs on boats where the guy must have got it for free.

[BITEME]

X2 it's tough stuff if it went down right

[Black_Blade]

It looks to be on there pretty good, but has hairline cracks in it since its not flexible and we all know if its not flexible in a Sportspal, its not gonna work too good...lol. The Adthane urethane sealant they sold me, seems to be good stuff and will stick to most surfaces if its good and clean, so ya, if can get the majority of the JB off, not worry about the stuff in crevices etc, the urethane stuff will get in there and stick good.

 

The repair I had done for the hole in my 14 was to use some 'bugle tape' (sticky, gooey stuff we used in commercial roofing for to hold down overlapping seams in the pvc roofing material...good stuff that never dries out) and a piece of scrap steel flashing (that was my job at the time..tin banger in roofing co.) screwed down. Did that at the side of the lake up in Kirkland Lake..lol. It last over 2 yrs until the goo finally got rubbed down too much from beaching. Now its got the proper stuff on it around a piece of aluminum patch. The other seeping was on the seams where the sealant had rubbed down to the screw heads in places..just a wipe with brake cleaner and reapply the adthane and smoosh it down, should take care of that.

 

Now to fabricate some custom racks to get the old girl to fit properly on top of an 06 Freestar (my truck died )

[canoecarrier]

I have done it many times, I recommend using a heat gun or maybe even a hair dryer might work if held on the area long enough. Then you will have to scrape it off while it is hot.