Transducer Plate Installed

[RangerGuy]

So I got the transducer plate installed. I was happy that I could raise

the board up a little higher than 1/4 inch and still get the transducer all the way below the

boat at the lowest setting. I haven't installed the ducer just held it up before

pre-drilling the holes.

 

I do not like working on aluminum hulls. I much prefer glass way easier

to correct if you make a mistake hahaha! Now I have to wait 5-7 days

for the 3M 5200 to cure

 

Anyways, I was very surprised to not hit any wood when I pre-drilled

the mounting holes. I thought the entire transom was wood surrounded

by aluminum. This does concern me a bit. I hope the screws hold

 

Here she is I think it worked out well.

 

Sorry for the formatting I'm on my phone.

Edited June 29, 2012 by RangerGuy

[Sinker]

That will work. If your boat is the same as mine, the wood in the transom only goes down as far as the water line.

 

S.

[Fish4Eyes]

Looks good man. Did you use that plastic place I referred you to in Hamilton?

[RangerGuy]

Looks good man. Did you use that plastic place I referred you to in Hamilton?

 

Thanks

 

I actually ended up getting the piece from Peidmount plastics. I just could not get to Hamilton and wanted to be in

person to order to make sure it was the right size. I know, I know I worry to much.

 

Man that 3M 5200 stuff takes along time to cure it's still very soft. I noticed some bubbling this morning so I popped

them with a small nail and dripped some in the tiny holes. If when this stuff hardens up a bit and I still have a few bubbles on the

top of the joint. I'll re-tape and cut them out and re-run the top seal... The war against water continues HAHA!

 

I still don't get why they don't run wood all the way to the bottom.. would be much easier for mounting stuff.

[RangerGuy]

Just checked the board while home for lunch.... It's flexing a bit in the heat.. so I think I'm gonna put another screw in the center and fill the screw hole with the sealant first to help combat the flexing...

 

Today is a good test for the board expanding since it's stinking hot out LOL!

[msp]

Can you please explain why you did this ? Is it so that you can get the transducer as low as possible ?

Will it still be able to read the depth at higher speeds ?

Thanks

[RangerGuy]

The plate is so that you only have to drill holes in your hull once.. If I change a transducer or add one I don't need to drill more holes into the boat.. just the mounting plate..

 

make sense?

[bare foot wader]

great posts with pictures ranger guy, been following your boat, nice rig

 

I bought my first decent sized boat back in feb, a used 17' lund pro angler ss...i'll be upgrading to an hds next couple of weeks and been looking up tranducer plates, my lund manual says not to drill any holes for the plate below the water line, but from what i've researched it seems nobody actually follows this???

 

I'm leaning towards going with a larger transducer plate to screw above the water line and just wondering if i should use an adhesive between the hull and plate? and whats the best way to seal the old holes? I'm thinking a rivet or anything else would create a gap between the hull and plate, maybe just some good marine silicone?

 

here's a few pics

[blue pickeral]

Mr. Sticky's Polybinder will hold the plate to the transom. It worked well for me without putting holes in the hull. Eventually I did put 2 bolts through once I was sure where everything went. Some expert on here says you can't glue starboard or like material but mine worked fine with the polybinder.

 

There are 2 versions of the 3m marine 5200 - one is the quick cure - takes 2 days. The quick cure is recommended for your use.

[RangerGuy]

I used the slow cure 3M 5200 because I couldn't find black

in the fast cure. I applied it Thursday evening and today I noticed its almost fully cure like a hard rubber Instructions say 5-7 days.

 

My manual actually says to install it below the water line and to seal with silicone.

 

Now that I've looked closer at my hull. I'd prefer it below the water line because I have no wood just aluminum nothing to rot. If you get a leak it would just be into the bilge and you would notice and can reseal it.

Edited July 3, 2012 by RangerGuy

[blue pickeral]

If you have to re - do it for some reason, consider using a couple of stainless steel bolts instead of screws. You have your holes made already, pass the bolts through the hull and use a stainless nut to secure. Seal around the nut.

 

Counter sink your plastic plate at the fastening holes. Slide on over the bolts/hull nuts and then use two more nuts to hold on the plastic plate. Some sealant can be used between the plastic plate and the hull at this point.

[RangerGuy]

I wanted to thru bolt but I can't see how to get to the inside of the transom. The area is sealed off and side plate blocking the area is riveted.

 

But really thru bolt is not required for a transducer plate. Stainless steel metal screws create threads in the hole as they are screwed in and tighten up nicely. Atlease they did for me

 

Man that 3M 5200 cures nice, it's like hard rubber and gave a SOLID seal.

[msp]

The plate is so that you only have to drill holes in your hull once.. If I change a transducer or add one I don't need to drill more holes into the boat.. just the mounting plate..

 

make sense?

Yep, makes sense. Do you guys know how to mount the transducer so that I can get a depth reading at high speeds ?

[Sinker]

Yep, makes sense. Do you guys know how to mount the transducer so that I can get a depth reading at high speeds ?

 

What exactly do you mean by high speeds? My lowrance will show depth at 30mph if its not real bumpy. Its usually the height, and level of the 'ducer that makes the difference. Mine likes to be tipped down just a little, rather than perfectly level. If I'm downrigging, I usually tip it up, so the beam is pointed a little to the back of the boat. It picks up my cannonballs, and sometimes even my dipsies if they're close enough, but it won't mark bottom at high speed.

 

You could have it mounted too close to a strake along the bottom of the boat, too close to the engine, or even a line of rivets. Anything that will create air bubbles going under the 'ducer will throw it off at high speeds.

 

S.

[RangerGuy]

From what I've read about mounting trandsucers on riveted aluminum boats is you have to

treat the rivets as the bottom when setting the depth of the transducer.

 

So your transducer has to be deeper than the rivets so as to get smooth water to pass under it, often

guys will complain about a rooster tail coming from it and build a sheild that screws

to the transducer plate above the transducer bracket to deflect the spray down.

 

For me I have an issue because my boat is a duck boat as well so will be either

sitting on the bottom or very close so I have to remember to tilt the ducer up

before setting it into shore, which kind of sucks cause I know I'm gonna forget haha!

[Sinker]

My ducer comes right off for duck season! Been there, done that.....it gets expensive quick

 

S.

[RangerGuy]

I might do that as well Sinker hehehe! Oh and if you know anybody selling a used avery quick set blind the 18-20' model.

 

I'd be very grateful if you pm me thier contact info

Edited July 4, 2012 by RangerGuy