Skipper D Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) great thread....im THINKING of repainting my lund this year....have priced out a few of the pro shops and they want a small fortune....i know pro's cost money...but it aint that big of a job..(being a painter myself)....so right now im searching the net for some direction.... I use to be in the resto buz big time a few years back , preping that one for paint is a bit of a job Edited January 10, 2012 by Skipper " D "
workwear Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 just doin bove the water line ....the black strip...bit of a boat rash...gotta be 50sq feet of surface....how hard can that be
Skipper D Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Posted January 11, 2012 the boats aluminum right , are you going to strip it down to the aluminum ???
Ainsley Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) A few pics of my 1971 Searay. Still a work in progress. Edited January 11, 2012 by Ainsley
Skipper D Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Posted January 11, 2012 A few pics of my 1971 Searay. Still a work in progress. Its a good looking boat AINSLEY , same lines as my Tempest , i was told yours and mind are made by the same mold , i belive Searay is the maker , correct me if i am wrong .
Ainsley Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 Gave your pics a good look and they do look very similar. I wish mine had a split windshield, I end up climbing around the side of the windshield to cast off the bow. I'm planning on getting some Teak or an alternative (Iroko or Ipe) and doing the trim around the interior as well as some other little accent pieces. I've contemplated putting an electric trolling motor on her but have yet to decide if it would be better with a foot control or 'tiller' style. It would definitely need to go on the stern and I would have to make up some kind of bracket or plate in aluminum. I ended up finding out that the transom had some rot around the motor mount bolt holes so after i removed as much of the punky wood as I could I injected epoxy to stabilize the remaining rot and then installed a stainless plate to strengthen the whole area.
Skipper D Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Gave your pics a good look and they do look very similar. I wish mine had a split windshield, I end up climbing around the side of the windshield to cast off the bow. I'm planning on getting some Teak or an alternative (Iroko or Ipe) and doing the trim around the interior as well as some other little accent pieces. I've contemplated putting an electric trolling motor on her but have yet to decide if it would be better with a foot control or 'tiller' style. It would definitely need to go on the stern and I would have to make up some kind of bracket or plate in aluminum. I ended up finding out that the transom had some rot around the motor mount bolt holes so after i removed as much of the punky wood as I could I injected epoxy to stabilize the remaining rot and then installed a stainless plate to strengthen the whole area. WOW , they take a lot of work hu , i have a brother who spent a lot of years working for Doral boats and one of his jobs was replacing transoms , on a boat like ours they cut the fiberglass on the back side or may be better said on the inside of the boat in order to remove all the rotten wood then fiberglass it back in , that way it looks like it was never touched ,, i've watch him over the years do a few , lucky for me he rents an apartment from me and has offered to replace the floor in my boat once its in my shop , i gutted it last fall and found the floor to be bad under the seats . you have your boat looking real good , looks like its finshed if you did'nt know better . Edited January 11, 2012 by Skipper " D "
Skipper D Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Posted January 11, 2012 Ilike the colour of your boat ...lol , its the same colour as my jeep.. lol . Once my boats ready it will be getting a new paint job as well , you wont believe this but i am going Black with mine .
fishdawg Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 many little winter projects happening now with my Crestliner in the garage I'll post a little something upon completion
Skipper D Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Posted January 11, 2012 Thank you for jumping in Fishdawg and by all means please do . Yesterday i managed to spend a few more hours in the shop putting up sheeting , its not easy putting up 14' sheets by your self standing on your head with your legs far apart to hold the tin and balancing on one hand on a chair so the tin reaches the ceiling and with your other hand trying to reach up between your legs and put the screws in . But i did manage to do a few , why do we always leave the hardest part til last i'll never know ....... lol . I better get back out there and get at it . Have fun every one and good luck fish'en .
HTHM Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 Here is a link to a project that I did two years ago: http://ontariofishingcommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40590&st=20&p=434612&hl="ranger%20370V"&fromsearch=1entry434612
JustinHoffman Posted January 11, 2012 Report Posted January 11, 2012 Hello All, For those looking for some information on upgrading their aluminum boat, check out my article in the latest issue of Ontario OUT OF DOORS magazine (Jan/Feb. 2012). Great tips on building casting decks, carpeting your rig, livewell adaptations, and electronics rigging. Also of interest, here is a companion video I shot which further explains some of the upgrades I have made to the Springbok Pro 140 over its 23 years: Good Fishing, Justin
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 Thank you Justin , good stuff in here guy's .
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 Heres a days efforts at reno'ing a bay in my shop to have a place to build my fishing boat for 2012 , ceiling is just about completely tin'ed .
bigbuck Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 Shop is looking good!! Just remember, we want pics of the boat resto. Don't forget that iboats.com is a great resource for your resto job whether it be mechanical structural or cosmetic. Lots of guys have done some pretty serious rebuilds of basketcase boats to like new condition.
Mikeyfish Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 My boat, a 17' Crestliner is in storage at this time until late March. This spring I want to intall a cooling system in the live well,a safey bar along the back of the boat and heat my winsheild for those duey and frosty days. I've been waiting for the ice to freeze and it is weeks late. I'm tried of the wait so I'm designing a self propelled hut that will slide on thin ice and even cross open water saftly.Heading into town tomorrow to order my alumminun. I can usualy see how to over come problems or even take something and make it better.Here's a link below to my site if you want to see some of my creations for ice fishing ( Ideers ) page.I have learned to build my own site and it is slow,I still have a ways to go www.fishingmikeystyle.ca
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 My boat, a 17' Crestliner is in storage at this time until late March. This spring I want to intall a cooling system in the live well,a safey bar along the back of the boat and heat my winsheild for those duey and frosty days. I've been waiting for the ice to freeze and it is weeks late. I'm tried of the wait so I'm designing a self propelled hut that will slide on thin ice and even cross open water saftly.Heading into town tomorrow to order my alumminun. I can usualy see how to over come problems or even take something and make it better.Here's a link below to my site if you want to see some of my creations for ice fishing ( Ideers ) page.I have learned to build my own site and it is slow,I still have a ways to go www.fishingmikeystyle.ca First off Mikey welcome to OFC , nice to have you . Don't forget to go on the board and introduce your self to every one . I just checked out your link and its awsome , we'll have to talk again soon . Welcome aboard .
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 Shop is looking good!! Just remember, we want pics of the boat resto. Don't forget that iboats.com is a great resource for your resto job whether it be mechanical structural or cosmetic. Lots of guys have done some pretty serious rebuilds of basketcase boats to like new condition. Thank you Bigbuck , but i've always taken pride in being a leader , never was much good at being a fallower if you know what i mean ... lol . I sure will post resto pic's once i get it in the shop and get going on it .
bigbuck Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 I hear ya! Just go through some of the posts that have similarities to what you are undertaking so you can avoid some of the pitfalls and mistakes.
workwear Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 the boats aluminum right , are you going to strip it down to the aluminum ??? dont know yet if its needed to go down to the metal....of course any guidance would be greatly appreciated...i was thinking of giving it a good sand and then applying a good primer..sand...first coat ..sand and then a second coat...
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 dont know yet if its needed to go down to the metal....of course any guidance would be greatly appreciated...i was thinking of giving it a good sand and then applying a good primer..sand...first coat ..sand and then a second coat... You should be fine if thats what your planning on doing and yes thats simple and afordable , touch the aluminum making it bare and your into a hole new game to where you have to prep the aluminum to take paint other wise it will never stick for any amount of time , in that case there is an acid wash that needs to be done , then a vinyl coating to apply before panting , last one i did would have been mid 90's and now who knows what the new process in .
irishfield Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 dont know yet if its needed to go down to the metal....of course any guidance would be greatly appreciated...i was thinking of giving it a good sand and then applying a good primer..sand...first coat ..sand and then a second coat... Remember the top coat is only as good as what's underneath it! If the old paint is "loose" in anyway the top coat will come off as well... so I'd be putting the aluminum compatible stripper to it and then after throughly cleaning a self etch primer and PPG top coat. If you have a good base.. sure scuff and top it. Pending how old a Lund.. it's probably PPG Concept or the lastest version of same. Find a shop with the PPG paint rail to mix for you or just swing in with the boat and have them shoot it... with paint that is.
Skipper D Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 Thanks for your input here Wayne , you said it so much better .
workwear Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 thanks wayne.....youve seen my boat its a 2003 pro-v...paint is still pretty solid all round...just major boat rash here and there...need new decals...just wanna clean it up....can you recommend a good primer??
irishfield Posted January 13, 2012 Report Posted January 13, 2012 Heat gun the decals off.. clean it.. scuff it and shoot some new paint where needed. If it doesn't go to bare spots I don't know what you need if any primer at all.. I don't paint I just deliver my stuff to the local shop and go pick it up! lol. PPG does have a self etch primer for aluminum though... so you use their entire system. Any GOOD paint shop knows what to do with aluminum these days with it on so many cars.
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