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$300 to spend... what rod & reel to buy?


Fisherpete

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On top of that, low profile baitcasters usually have a narrower spool which further decreases the maximum angle that the line has to make between the spool and the line guide.

 

 

I'd like to add that most middle sized (wider) levelwind casting reels including some ABU's are full time levelwinds so the line guide is always in front of where the line was laid on the spool. The pawl moves and lines up with the postion of the spooled line on cast, retrieve, and line dragging out. In contrast, I can't think of 1 low profile that has full time levelwind meaning the pawl does NOT move every time the line moves and it's usually during cast and line dragging out. There might be some, i just can't think of any that do, at any price.

 

Like others have said, this is a tough comparison. It's like asking if you should buy a full size pickup or a toyota corolla next, there's very little common ground between them.

 

As a side note, I did bring a big pile of my fishing gear back to Ontario from my vacation spot. I plan to sell most of it but haven't had time to put out any ads and the list includes a C4 6600. :D boxed, new, never used. It was a backup that i don't see myself getting into at this point.

Edited by j ace
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I'm sure you can find a great but used Curado 300 for under 100 dollars because the 2009 Curado 300 is now on the market. Everyone with the old Curados will want to buy the new Curado that has been upgraded quite a bit. I think that maybe a new 2009 Citica would be okay for musky. The only difference between this new reel and the new Curado is in the number of bearings.

 

The Curado 300 is unchanged for '09 - good luck finding one under $100.

The Citica is far too small for muskie fishing. Not enough spool, not enough stopping power. It may do fine for incidental muskie catches but I'd never recommend one for a dedicated muskie setup.

-Brian

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I'd like to add that most middle sized (wider) levelwind casting reels including some ABU's are full time levelwinds so the line guide is always in front of where the line was laid on the spool. The pawl moves and lines up with the postion of the spooled line on cast, retrieve, and line dragging out. In contrast, I can't think of 1 low profile that has full time levelwind meaning the pawl does NOT move every time the line moves and it's usually during cast and line dragging out. There might be some, i just can't think of any that do, at any price.

 

,

 

If the line guide follows the line from side to side during the cast, this means that the bar that moves the pawl must turn and also the gears that turn the bar are also moving. This adds a lot of resistance to the spool itself. It is no longer turning free. This greatly reduces the speed of the spool. The speed of the spool is essential for long casts.

 

Some low profile reels have a self-centering line guide that eliminates the worst resistance (when the guide is to one side while the line is leaving the spool from the other side of the reel). The only way to really increase casting distance is to do what the long distance pros do.....that is to completely remove the line guide and the whole assembly that moves the line guide from side to side. This means that the angler must manually move the line from one side of the reel to the other with his thumb and forefinger. Actually, it is quite easy to do and does become quite automatic. I have a few reels for deep water ice-fishing ( 200 to 700 feet ) that have had the line guides removed. I fish all winter on the Saguenay River and the temperatures vary from -10 C (nice day) to -35 (not so nice) and sometimes even colder (especially at night). I sometimes use wire line during the summer and wire line destroys the line guide.

 

There is always the fact that even though the line guide on many reels is always engaged, this does not mean that the line guide will be always in line with the line on the spool.

 

When using my low profile baitcasters and even my round reels (Cardiff 101A or Calyx 100A), my drag is adjusted quite low. Just before making a cast, I often center the line guide in the middle by turning the handle of the reel against the drag and then disengaging everything for the cast by pressing the casting bar. The Cardif which is a round reel and the low profile reels have rather narrow spools so the angle that the line leaves the spool is never really a problem unless I'm casting very light lures (1/8 to 1/4 ounce). But these reels are not musky reels.

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LOL nothing yet, my bonus is on my pay on October 4th

 

Leaning towards the 7'6" Compre and Calcutta CT-200GTB (unless this is too small of a reel?) I like the idea that it is a few ounces lighter than the 400 series.

 

Combo should end up around $400 or so. (yeesh, couch time if wifey finds out)

 

http://www.lebaron.ca/pdf_files_sp08/fishi...mano_curado.pdf

 

Keep the debate going... I have learned tons about reels in the past week!

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I glanced over the specs for the different models of Calcutta 300 and 400 and for someone who spends 90% of his time casting for musky, I would seriously consider an Abu Garcia 6500 C3 because of the tremendous price difference even though it is not considered as robust as the Calcutta. You can buy 3 Abu Garcia reels for the price of one Calcutta.

 

If the line guide does not disengage on the Abu Garcia, I would remove the whole assembly so that the spool will be as free spooling as possible. You will see that when you are holding your rod and reel in your left hand with the handle of the rod under your left arm, your left thumb and forefinger will have no trouble guiding the line evenly on the spool.

 

Check this site: http://www.birds-eye.net/fishing/musky_beginner_setup.htm

Edited by Dabluz
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If the line guide does not disengage on the Abu Garcia, I would remove the whole assembly so that the spool will be as free spooling as possible.

 

I'm not an Abu fan but I'll defend their casting ability - no need to remove the guide provided you have a nice arm/rod/reel/lure match. It was fun watching muskiestudd casting a Rattlin' Spot halfway across the river with an Abu 7000 on Saturday.

 

Comparing a Calcutta to an Abu is analogous to comparing a Tekota 600 to a Penn 209 - The Abu/Penn offer function and dependability while the Shimano reels add refinement to the mix.

 

Fisherpete, the CT200GTB is a very nice reel but chucking and jerking big baits is going to be hard on that reel. I think Clive (mepps) would be the first to tell you that the Calcutta 200 is a great reel - he has a lot of miles and landed a lot of monsters on his but a dedicated muskie reel, it ain't.

 

-Brian

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If the line guide follows the line from side to side during the cast, this means that the bar that moves the pawl must turn and also the gears that turn the bar are also moving. This adds a lot of resistance to the spool itself. It is no longer turning free. This greatly reduces the speed of the spool. The speed of the spool is essential for long casts.

 

Yes, that's how it works with most levelwind larger reels. The line pawl is always engaged and it moved on all line motion, in or out. It does have an effect on casting distance but it's negligible. If you're using a bigger reel, you're probably casting larger baits so that will pull hard enough. with a decent reel, you'll have no problem casting lures under 1/2 Oz with 300/400 size reels with levelwind although i woudln't try something delicate like a worm on a hook. Levelwinds are common with surf fishermen who cast a few hundred yards but if you're talking competitive casting, yes, most of them will remove anything that might shorten a cast.

 

 

There is always the fact that even though the line guide on many reels is always engaged, this does not mean that the line guide will be always in line with the line on the spool.

 

 

Yes it is. On a full time levelwind, the line will ALWAYS be in a straight path off the spool and through the line guide. There is absolutely no movement of the line that does not make the line pawl move whether it's casting, reeling, or drag feeding out or spinning the spool back with your thumb. The only time the line goes out of alignment is when you remove the reel's side plate which separates the gears, remove the spool, or reel in the loose end and spin it around the spool a few times

 

 

When using my low profile baitcasters and even my round reels (Cardiff 101A or Calyx 100A), my drag is adjusted quite low. Just before making a cast, I often center the line guide in the middle by turning the handle of the reel against the drag and then disengaging everything for the cast by pressing the casting bar.

 

This only works on smaller reels that disengage the levelwind during cast. On larger reels (usually over 250 size) where the levelwind is always engaged, holding the spool and winding with the clutch engaged and loosened drag only spins the handle on the drag discs -- the spool and levelwind do not move and the line stays in alignment with the line guide under normal usage.

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I'm not an Abu fan but I'll defend their casting ability - no need to remove the guide provided you have a nice arm/rod/reel/lure match. It was fun watching muskiestudd casting a Rattlin' Spot halfway across the river with an Abu 7000 on Saturday.

 

 

I don't know why but this line reminded me of an episode of "Extreme fishing with Robson Green" i watched the other day. It was in South Africa and he's fishing from shore with a local guide and borrowed gear. The guide hands him a long surf rod with a good sized casting reel and he wails on it to make his first cast without thumbing the spool and gets the biggest knot i've ever seen. He let the spool spin like it was attached to a drill. ...and then he admits to that being his first time with a casting reel. ahah. From the way they edited the footage, i would guess he did it a few more times in quick succession before giving up and demanding a spinning reel. :D

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