musky66 Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 I have a 17' Starcraft Superfisherman ( Aluminum ) that has been taking on water for a season or two. I have tried everything I could think off to track down the leak. Finally, after filling the boat with water until the carpets were soaked- I think I found part of the problem. It appears there are a couple of 'pin holes' in the aluminum just forward of the transom near the outside edge of the bottom hull. The paint has bubbled a bit around them. There are several more 'pin holes' on each of the outside chines but only these two are leaking water. What are these caused by? maybe defects in the metal? corrosion? ageing( the boat is a '98 )? ,and how best to close them up? It looks to be too dificult to access the inside of the hull where these are located so I'm thinking maybe a seal coat of primer and paint, or some kind of spot putty? Any ideas would be appreciated. I love the boat and want to keep her for many more years. Thanks,,,
Zib Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 Personally if I was planning on keeping the boat I would take it in to be welded. There are products sold at marine stores that sell stuff in a tube that will patch holes in aluminum boats. There is also HTS-2000 that I have seen advertised that you can weld yourself with a simple propane torch. HTS-2000
douG Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 If you are really talking about pinholes, go to CT and get some marine epoxy filler. You might be able to to wipe it over the affected area, and then wiping it clean, leaving only filler in the hole. This stuff sets very quickly, so move fast.
bigfish1965 Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 The pinholes may be caused by poorly grounded electronics. Believe it or not.
Fisherman Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Rick hit that one dead center on the head. A lot of boat mfgrs are too cheap and lazy to spend the extra $10 on a dedicated ground wire to each electrical component. The only sure way to prevent that type of problem is to run a ground wire to the socket of each light, never attach the ground wire to the hull. Edited October 22, 2007 by Fisherman
solopaddler Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 There is also HTS-2000 that I have seen advertised that you can weld yourself with a simple propane torch. I got sucked into trying those rods a few years back trying to repair an old beater aluminum I had. Bottom line they didn't work. Was a waste of 100 bucks... Also, for what it's worth to get any kind of success with this product (which is minimal) you need a welding torch to heat up the boat, a regular propane torch won't get it hot enough.
irishfield Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Piliform(sp) corrosion. Moisture trapped under paint, battery acid, electrical as Rick pointed out...many things cause it. You need to stop the corrosion by etching it and then get a coat of 2 part epoxy primer on it. Chromate if you can find it. As for the holes themselves...a properly fitted patch RIVETED over the entire area, picking up good material. Edited October 22, 2007 by irishfield
Greencoachdog Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 If it was just a couple pinholes, I'd drill them out and put a good rivet in them.
irishfield Posted October 22, 2007 Report Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Good idea if they are indeed single pinholes Glen...but I suspect if he has pin holes...he has intergranular seperation all around said pin holes...and that needs to be stopped in it's tracks, treated and sealed up complete with some new alum over it. Edited October 23, 2007 by irishfield
Fisherman Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 I got sucked into trying those rods a few years back trying to repair an old beater aluminum I had.Bottom line they didn't work. Was a waste of 100 bucks... Also, for what it's worth to get any kind of success with this product (which is minimal) you need a welding torch to heat up the boat, a regular propane torch won't get it hot enough. Well some people have bad luck with the product and I won't ball everyone intoo the same pot, but, the instructions must be adhered to exactly. I've used it numerous times on aluminum, I only use a stainless steel brush to clean the area to be repaired, no acetone or lacquer or any solvents. If you use a brass or steel(non stainless) it will not work. You may have used a cheap stainless brush, it won't work. I have used both a regular plumbers propane bottle and MAAP gas bottles, both have worked for me. I bought a bundle of the rods at the CNE about 20+ years ago.
pooch Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 JB Weld!!! I used it 4 years ago on a small hole and it is still holding strong.
corvette1 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 MY LUNDPROV HAD A SMALL HOLE ON THE BACK OF THE TRANSOM DO NOT TRY TO WELD YOURSELF IT JUST MAKES A MESS FOR NEXT GUY TAKE IT TO A FAB SHOP GET IT WELDED RIGHT MINE PUT A NICE PATCH ON IT IT COST 300US MONEY WELL SPENT
musky66 Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Posted October 25, 2007 Thanks for the replies! I patched the pinholes up with the epoxy 'stick' I had from CTC. Spent 8 hours on Balsam today- no water !! Now I need to find out why exactly the pinholes are there- many more on the hull but not leaking....yet. If it is from stray electrical current, I need to track it down and eliminate it, prep and seal all the existing holes and keep her tight!
irishfield Posted October 25, 2007 Report Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) Get all those ground wires off the hull. They should all go to an insulated terminal block and then to the - battery terminal. Using the hull as a ground...in water... turns it somewhat into a battery and you are seeing the results. Edited October 25, 2007 by irishfield
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