Bernie

Will there be any Greencoachdogs on it Joe?

Great report Glen. Love to see the boat pics and open blue water. O ya put 2 depends on for those days when you drink too much.

Yes Joe the jumper will work it. Glad to be able to do my part here too Joe.

It's still a possible bad switch. The contacts may be worn internally and with a little wear in the cam it may not be depressed far enough to contact. Go to the GM store and get an OE switch. Have had some problems with the aftermarket switches. Keep me updated on your progress.

Thank you Guys. Did enough of these things I should have the diagram imprinted in my head. But there are so many different systems that you have to take the time to verify. At first I was thinking it had an electric transfer case motor. Having the proper diagrams available makes jobs go easier. But you are right, it does take time to look it up, think through it and describe how to test. Just as a side note to those who think guys like me are expensive, the program I used to look up the diagram costs me $300.00 a month to maintain. Along with scan tool updates, training, hoists and so on its hard to keep up with the technology and keep enough for a wage. I realize mechanics have a bad reputation in some places but most of us are trying our best to keep you going along the road.

Power wash yer hair in the wind anyway. Dang tillers.

Proves the circuits are working and the switch is not. So next is the switch. When 4x4 applied it moves a cam up to the switch to activate it. Possibilities are a bad switch, the cam not moving or the switch not threaded in enough to contact the cam. Pull out the switch and hook up your ohm meter to the 2 contacts(light blue and black) and push up on the switch. It should show continuity. I suspect a bad switch here. Yes you can jump it if need be to get you out of a jam.

Hey Wayne, how come you still have that pic of my old one?

Couple more checks. Continuity test the ground circuit. When you checked for power at the actuator you used the ground circuit on the harness so to verify you need to ohm test(continuity) the ground (black wire) to the battery negative terminal. Did you check for power on the brown wire at the transfer case switch? If you have and there was power the open circuit is somewhere in between there and your actuator. If the switch not being moved by internal cam in transfer case it will not close the circuit either. Here's an idea if power is at the switch. Jump the switch at the transfer case (brown to light blue) and check for power to the actuator again. This will prove bad switch operation if power is there. This is a lot harder to do on line. I'd have this figured in 10 minutes flat in the shop.

Different system than the one we are trying to solve here Waterwolf. But it is one of the first things we check here on the S10's.

A continuity test will not indicate voltage. There are several paths where it can find its way back to ground indicating continuity. You need to find out if you have power/ground. Use a cotter pin or some way to hook up. Do you have a multi meter? Set it to volts with proper dc volts scale and test. Careful with this though. You can get a voltage reading with a poor connection too, you also need enough amperage to run the actuator.

Ok -good. Now you need to check for power and ground on the actuator harness. The light blue wire should have power and black is ground. Use a test light across the terminals. It should light it up in 4x4 mode. Check fuses #14 and 25 in your fuse panel. Both are tied in to your 4x4 system. By the way there is an update kit for these models. Kind of pricey but they work a lot better with instant engagement.

OK-first we need to find out if the transfer case is applying power to the front driveshaft. If there is then you need to find out if your actuator has power and ground to heat it. Jack up front and rear axles,support it properly. Engage the 4x4 put it in drive and look to see if the front driveshaft is rotating. If it is the transfer case is working. Caution here, sometimes cold fluid will rotate the shaft too. You should be able to hear the transfer case motor shift in and out.(lots of problems with those things) Go that far and let me know what you find.

Some great advise here. One more thing to add is find a salesman that actually drives a boat. There are lots of them out there that don't. Research well to find the boat that suits your needs.

First of all when you say "no juice" are you saying the actuator is not moving? There are other components involved here too. If the transfer case is engaging (putting power to front driveshaft) then the problem becomes in the front differential actuator mechanism. If you could clarify things a little more I can help. By the way, is this a full size, S-10 or S-10 Blazer?

Hey FN. Too bad the fishing wasn't too good. I had heard it slowed down. Most reports that have been going around is they are in deeper water. Frank runs a good operation there and is a good host. The area you were fishing is about 300 meters from where we will be giving it a go next weekend. Glad to see you had a fine time.

Pictures came through just fine here RR. On the note on how to post pics. I copied and pasted that paragraph at the time I had asked the same question a year ago. I cant remember who authored it but it's possible douG did. There is a personal notepad in "My Controls" that I stored it to. Handy spot to keep stuff pertaining to here.

Hi Reefrunner, Great introduction. Welcome to the board. As far as receiving help for your fishaholic condition-don't expect any here. Your problem may only get worse. Ok, sign up at www.photobucket.com. Once signed up, you log in. Upload pictures to photobucket. Now once it is uploaded, there are 3 codes for that picture right below. If you want to post it directly to the post on OFC, hilight the tag/code then right click and finally go to your post and right click and paste. If you have more that one picture make sure you put the copied tag/code under each other. If you put the code side by side you will make a mess.

I was reading on another board a fellows post who witnessed it and took some pictures. I don't fish there for obvious reasons but many do because the fish do congregate in that area. From what I understand the warmth is fairly localized.

Some Citation models came with electric start Clampet.

That particular area is where the sewage treatment plant is. Warm water exits there and the ice is never safe. People tried to flag her away but either didn't see them or ignored them. Areas with known high current flows should be avoided on any lake or waterway.

Ha Ha Ha Ha

Couple possibilities come to mind. First is there is a possibility that the problem is in your dimmer switch. Seeing as how you cant switch high/low I'm wondering if both filaments are coming on and overheating the bulb. Secondly is the voltage regulator may not be properly grounded or defective. The regulator is designed to take any voltage levels above 14 and direct them to ground. If the ground at the regulator is open circuit(cut wire or rusty)it can't direct it to ground, voltage goes high and will blow the bulb. Hope this helps.

Ahhh yes. But there's some truth to it, the fish tend to move in an east wind to a different spot.

Good stuff Ben. I believe you have the all the skill, determination and personality to do what you plan.