PainInTheBass

Not working for any of these companies, I cannot say for certain. But there is R&D that goes into the development of the lenses.

High quality polarized lenses vary in price based on the lens material firstly, and the various treatments and processes for UV protection, tinting, shatter/impact resistance. The frame material is also brought into the equation. Glass lenses generally provide the best optical performance with the least amount of distortion. They are also heavier, but less prone to scratching than plastic lenses, which are lighter, but more impact resistant. Different companies use different techniques of applying UV filters to the lenses, from films to other processes. Different companies will have multiple layers of various coatings etc. So, companies do have enough variation to warrant claiming being different than other brands. How different may be harder to tell. Whether proprietary process A is better than B may be impossible to tell.

How to keep cool on a boat... 1. Put on skinny jeans, aviators and golf shirt with popped collar 2. Blast the beats as you cruise past anchored fishing boats j/k

Clerks Fanboys Forgetting Sarah Marhsall 40 year Old Virgin Grandma's Boy Old School Euro Trip Zombieland Shaun of the Dead The Breakfast Club

I used to sell phones, and my answer to questions like these was always, "It depends on what you want to use the phone for." There is no blanket statement. To say that one phone is better than the other at everythng is nonsense, other wise there would be no market for both phones, but there is. Just because one phone can do everything, it does not mean it does everything better than the other. Obivously, each phone has its merits and weaknesses. It is based on these which a decision should be made. (Oh, and touch screens, while good for some, are terrible for others, and will polarize buyers just as the actual buttons on a blackberry will). Do you think chain messages will stop just because you change phones? They will just take on a diffeent form. What you need to change are your friends lol.

re: mono For me, it isn't the lack of sensitivity (although I do feel that braid is more sensitive), it is the stretch that I dislike in mono. re: industry manure I think there is a lot of hype and hyperbole out there; lots of gimmicks with varying actual impacts. However, I think it is our job as consumers to try and weed through the sales talk and find out what is real and what isn't; what may work for s, and what may not. It's like any other industry really.

Yup. The new Chronarc is a very good reel - about as good as the Curado e series. It isn't the same Chronarch that everyone loves.

I don't think that the Chronarch and Curado platforms shared internals. As a result, I doubt that the new Chronarch is a Chronarch in Curado clothing. On the upside, the new Chronarch is only $199 USD. On the downside, you are paying an additional $20 USD for for a white painted Curado e, which were being blown out for in the low $100's recently.

I am 6'1 and am most comfortable with rods in the 6'6"-7' range, leaning towards 7'. The physics agree with the assessment of longer casting ability if you compare rods of equivalent power and action but different lengths. More energy can be imparted into the tip of a longer rod, thereby launching the lure with more energy for more distance. The leverage of a longer rod is a misnomer. It actually gives the rod more leverage. However, bass typically dont pull hard enough for this slight advantage to make a difference. What the longer rod does allow is the movement of more line with the movement of the rod tip. So, on hooksets, you can pull more line for deeper hook penetration, especially if you use mono, or a slow action rod. Also, it allows you to get the fishaway from heavy cover more easily when fishing heavy cover. You move the fish further and turn the head away from cover on hooksets. edt: In the end, the companies cannot tell you waht is right for you. You may eventually become more comfortable with longer rods, but in the end, it is you on the water. You need to be comfortable and confident with your gear. Much of it is hype to get anglers to buy new gear.

I am talking about the reel alone. Some of the features that I want in a baitcaster are aluminum frame to resist any sort of frame warping over long term, and to ensure that the gears remain in alignment. I also want to make sure that there are as few plastic parts in the reels as possible since these will go more quickly than aluminum or other metal parts. For me, the delineation point has been around $100 for reels. baitcasters below that price point don't seem to last as long generally. To buy above your budget, consider used, and buying from forums such as this. You can get much better quality if you are willing to by used. edit: in general, baitcaster rods are heavier in power due to the intended techniques/applications vs spinning rods. However, they do make heavier powered spinning rods and lighter powered baitcasting rods - they are just fewer and further between.

If the talk on TackleTour is right, then the 'new' Citicas and Curados are now on the Caenan's frame, and the Chronarch is built ont he Curado 200e frame (and 50e). All they have done is shuffle things around and rebadge, and call it a day.

You don't need to use a baitcaster simply because you see the pros using them. If you do decide to learn to use them, it should be for the right reasons. Although one can become accurate with spinning reels via feathering the spool on a cast, thumbing the spool allows one to have that much more control over the distance of a cast and cast placement. Baitcasters are offered in a much larger variety of retrieve ratios, which have benefits to different fishing techniques. To some (me) baitcasters are more comfortable to fish all day. I tend to find baitacster combos more balanced and more comfortable to fish in general. And, they are just plain fun. I recently built a light action baitcasting rod to all but replace my spinning combo lol. Oh, and as others have said, don't cheap out on a baitcasters, it may come back to haunt you. Around $100 is a good starting point.

Those pics are incredible! It looks like a painting - those clouds are so surreal. Great shots!

I was out fishing this weekend, and had just started working shoreline with my trolling motor when this guy motors in front of us with his tinny and anchors right in the line where we were trolling. So, we troll wide around him. As we were passing him, I hooked into a bass lol. Karma? maybe. Awesome? yes.

Congratulations!

That is wonderful. You guys exemplify the word community.

Very nice clean look! Keep it up!

My name rhymes with that which I am really a pain in ...

Maybe for trolling the lakes where you are allowed 2 rods... lol

If I can get out with my brother, we will likely go to West Lake or Rice. We caught tons of OOS largies when we were there a few weeks ago. Hopefully the bass will be inthe same spots when we come back.

It's funny that you mention that as I always notice the little things in every build that bother the hell out of me. However, the wife never notices anything. I guess that is a good thing since it shows that we take a lot of pride in our work.

All of the complements are much appreciated! Spiel, a compliment from another rod builder is very flattering. Thanks all! I have to try and get some pictures of some of the other rods I have built. Most are in the hands of their owners now. i do fish with them, and will try to get pics when I fish with them next.

I find those types of hook keepers less time consuming to tie, only because I am tying 1 band rather than 2. To be honest, the loop style hook keeper, as shown in the pics above, is easier to tie since you can really secure one arm to the blank while tying wrapping the first arm. After that, the second arm is a breeze. However, the type of hook keeper, for me at least, depends on my desired techniques for that rod. (Although, in this case, it was decided by the fact that this hook keeper was blue, and matched her rod. lol) Thanks for all the comments guys. I am in love with rod building now lol. All my friends are getting me to build customs for them. One day, I will build one for me too lol.

So, I finished my wife's custom rod. Being a Star Wars nerd, I made her a light saber fishing rod. unfortunately, I could not figure out a way to include lights or sounds. However, it has a sparkly paint job. Here are the details of the rod: blank - MHX MB783 grip - eva foam (portions wrapped in x flocked shrink tubing) guides - blue nanolite on stainless steel frames thread - blue to match the rod reel seat - Fuji ACS painted silver to maintain the metallic feel of the rod winding checks and bling - Matagi aluminum components I painted the blank with a base coat of blue. I then cleared over it with rod finish in which I mixed blue metallic flakes to produce a sparkle effect under the light. Here are some pics (more and better ones to follow): The pictures do not do the sparkle finish justice. Yeah, my wife uses a baitcaster. A closer look... I have built 10 rods thus far, and this was by far, the most custom. I am quite happy with how it turned out, although the paint and finish added significant weight in my opinion. My wife did not catch anything that first time out. However, on her next outing, she christened this bad boy with some topwater action. I love when people catch fish on rods I have made. It is very gratifying. All comments and criticism is welcome!

Bascially what I was describing was what you had said, but you were able to do so more clearly. Basically, I did not intend to say that a stiffer rod was less sensitive than a slower action rod. I meant anything that will absorb or transform energy along the length of a rod will make it less sensitive. This includes larger mass and a slower action. Energy needs to be transferred along the length of a rod in order for the angler to feel anything at the grip. Greater mass effectively absorbs this energy. A slower action effectively transforms this energy.