alexmedic

I totally agree with looking around and do not think the "Big Box" stores will always give you the best price. I was in the market for a new Okuma level wind counter and BPS wanted $84.99. A little shop in the Muskoka sells the exact same reel with a full spool of 20lb line and 25 feet of flouro for $69.99! Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge supporter of BPS, just ask my wife!! P.S. if if anyone wants the know the name of the shop, feel free to PM me. (I just don't want to be called a spammer!)

Actually it is just a crimped end. Come to think of it, the old gent that I got this stuff from (now deceased, or I wouldn't have to ask ya'll) and I had talked a long time about fishing. He thought I was crazy to go on the ice and said that was something he never had an urge to do. That being said, he could have acquired it from someone that did use it for ice fishing. Who knows???

Interesting... For ice fishing you say... I would have never guessed. I thought it was a double bottom bouncer for sure. I thought maybe you bent the two ends up to what ever level you desired and trolled away!! The weird thing is that each of the 6 that I have range from 1 to 4 ozs. I guess for water depth??

I have been researching it to death on the net. The closest thing I can find is possibly a trolling spreader.. But that is not for sure..

Recently I was given a huge box of tackle from an old fella that has no fished in years. A lot of the tackle is 20+ years old but most of it still in the original packages. It was a HUGE score. He just simply had no desire to keep it anymore and told me to take it all. One of the things that I found in the box were about 6 of these: Opened: Closed: Does anyone know how to use these?? As you can see the lead is able to slide up and down. I have used bottom bouncers in the past, but nothing like this. Or is it even a bottom bouncer?

I'm sure it's been on here before, but it does fit the topic....

Well it took me a while to complete my project. Things just seem to take longer to do these days with a 11 month old and a 2 1/2 year old! So here are a few pictures of my downrigging setup: I ended up using marine plywood. A good friend of mine had some leftover and was more than happy to help me cut it to fit. \ As you can see in this picture, there is no room for lateral movement. The vertical piece of plywood is just an 1/8 of an inch from the gunnells. The 2 back cleats stop the board from shifting back and the clamps keep it all in place. I also added a piece of felt to the bottom of the board to prevent any stratching to the gunnels. A 1/8" thick piece of aluminum was also added to the top just to prevent the clamps denting the wood. The clamps hold everything together, I have had it on the highway and at 120 km/h - not a wiggle. As far as powering the riggers, I just used a 3 outlet extension cord. I siliconed the single end shut and the double end has a cover that can be used to keep moisture out when not in use. But what I found was really the best thing about this project was the amount of support/suggestions from all the members. IT WAS AMAZING!!! A special thanks to Pigeontroller and Spincast. The emails that you guys sent helped a tonne and my design is really just a copy of a little of each of yours. In conclusion, the set-up was a success. Hit Simcoe today and caught a 9lb laker! Pictures to follow when they get emailed to me...

Thanks for all the great advice everyone, I think I'm gonna go with the wooden transom beam and the truck clamps. This board is such a great wealth of knowledge! I thought I would pass this suggestion on as well that I received from another board - I thought it was a great idea as well...... "Gday TEN90 I have installed riggers on my last 2 boats, one was an aluminum Sylvan and one was a Fiberglass Grew, both had sides full of styrofoam. I used Toggle Bolts and had no problems, the first couple of times out I would check tightness but never had any problems with them. Here is how you use them; 1) find the toggle size that has an internal thread smaller than the holes in your rigger mounting plate. Unless you want to upsize by drilling out your plate and don't cheap out, buy galvanized or stainless steel so that they will last. 2) Set your plate on your boat and mark dead center of the holes and center punch(aluminum) or drill (with a small bit for fibreglass), this is crutial in order to maximize support of the toggles and you do not want the drill bit to walk 3) find a drill bit that is a small fraction (1/64) larger than the head of your toggle bolt and drill your whole, ensure that the whole is deep enough that your toggle will pass entirely thru the solid surface material. Use a flash light to see if your hull is full of styrofoam, if it is, take a piece of coat hanger and bend at 90 degrees, put it thru the whole and ream out the foam. Then use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the scrap, the toggles are designed to hold mass when expanded fully so you don't want the foam to interfere, you may have to drill a second whole before trying to vacuum if the foam was sprayed in due to air tight spacing. 4) drill all 4 holes and vacuum out 5) run bolt thru all 4 mounting plate holes and screw on toggles, remember that the toggles open up against the back of the surface material, make sure not to put them in backwards (I did this the first time) 6) just before you are about to push the toggles thru spray a small bit of expansion foam in to the holes, remember expansion foam expands exponentially so a very small squirt will do. The reason for this is as follows (a) reseals the whole you have drilled ( expansion foam has an adhesive in it that will bond to all surfaces stopping the rods from backing out or the toggles from moving and stopping water from finding its way in to the wholes © it is water resistant and unlike silicon will not break down in moist conditions for many many years(d) if you decide to sell the boat and keep the riggers it will hold the toggles firm so you can back out the rods (e)it will seal the top of the holes stopping your rods from rotting off 7) push all toggles thru the holes and physically lift up the bolts by hand, hand tighten all the bolts equally. When I put mine on I went a full turn and a half with a rachet past hand tight. Do not over tighten, you can warp aluminum or crack fiberglass. 8) With this set up I run 13lb balls off the riggers on 3.5ft booms in any weather and have never had a problem. Cheers Saugeen"

You are right about the side rod compartments, but I think they are foamed in there permanently. I found out when I try to pull them out to run my trolling motor wire!

Thanks for all the input so far.. My boast is a 2004 Starcraft Star Fire. I was thinking of attaching the 4x4 base plates on the gunnels here... There is also a 2" lip.. On second look, I may be able to get my hand in the wiring ports on each side to secure nut/bolts. I do like the look of the transom mount as well though. If any one has any other ideas, I'd love to hear them!

I just bought a set of used electric Big Jons. I plan on installing the base plates ion each side of the boat, but I have no access underneath the boat so I can use nuts to secure the bolts/plate. What kind of self locking fastener would all of you recommend??

Great advice! Are antennas and brackets expensive?

I recently purchased a 16' Dual Console Aluminium and am now in the market for a VHF radio. The more I look, the more I cannot make up my mind... So I thought I would ask the group... What do you recommend??? I think a portable would be more suitable, but am not impartial to a mount style if it's worth my while... Also, I would like to keep the price to $200 or less. Thanks for reading!!!

Thanks for the quick replies! This forum is awesome!!

I have just been given a voltage gauge for my boat and I am stuck. On the back of the gauge there are 4 terminals: I - For the ignition G - Ground (Obviously) Light S - ?? Does anyone know what the S is for?? Looking at my tach, there is an "S" as well, but I do not want to risk any damage, as the gauge works great with just the ignition, ground and light hooked up. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!!

Can't hurt to try. I have returned a rod that broke, with a receipt though, and it was no questions asked.

I have never fished anything but electric. So one day when I grow up and can finally afford my own boat, I could not imagine going anything else but. The benefit I found was if you are set to say 80 feet and you start marking at 55, just a turn of a switch will have you in that zone, increasing your odds of a strike. I also support the Scotty electrics, but that is all I have ever down rigged with

Just limited out on laker in the Lake of Bays last weekend and for the first time we trying the cutting of the gills technique. I was very surprised of how fast the fish expired after the cuts. It seemed very quick and humane.. Just remember to let the fish bleed awhile in the net, or it could get messy

I think the best advice that I can give you is, start travelling. I remember when I really stared to get back into fishing (about 3 years ago), the first thing I did was hop on the net in hopes of reports and locations that I could just drive to and catch fish. That didn't happen. Why? The answer was easy. Angler spend countless hours tossing a line, solving the mystery of where to find the bite. This takes time, money, energy and most important, patience... I admire your enthusiasm and your admiration to the sport, but to have these spots given up on a web page that is accessible to the world just does not make sense. That being said, you have many options: Keep a rod and tackle kit in your car. While you are out and about, always be on the look out for areas that you see people fishing. Don't be afraid to stop and toss a line yourself. You will be amazed how friendly people are when they see you sharing the same hobby/passion. Just don't crowd them. I remember ice fishing the the Muskokas last winter and having a guy literally stop his sled in between 4 of us and start to drill a hole. Considering we were all with 50-75 feet of each other - not cool! And don't stop at just spots that look popular, if you see a potential honey hole along your travels, make sure it's legal to be there and try fishing it yourself. I am very fortunate that my job keeps me on the road 95% of the time, I am always on the look out. Finally, don't be surprised if it takes you years to build a list of great shore spots. I am the father of 2 young girls and my time has become very scarce. But any chance I get, the rod will come out of the car and I'll try. Best of luck on your list buliding, and if you are ever in the Barrie area, walk along the waterfront. You just never know if you'll see anglers trying their luck out!

Holy fast! It just came by UPS today and my wife has let me open the box, before it disappears for father's day. For anyone that has been following the thread here are the specs: Rod: Top Fly TF496 F/R - $129.00 - $139.00 Reel: Rocky Mountains RMG 5/6 - $69.00 - $79.00 The Kit is a Rocky Mountain Kit (Rocky Mountain Kit) - $219.00, but the cases are the same color as the Top Fly Kit (Top Fly Kit) So I think I'm gonna keep it. Now I just need to figure this whole thing out? It is totally foreign to me! Anyone in the Barrie area want to give a newbie a tutorial (after father's day of course!!)

Thanks for all the advice! I have told her to purchase it. At least with Costco, returns are easy if I'm not satisfied. I'll be sure to give a report when I get it...

My wife has told me that she is thinking of purchasing me a fly rod kit made by Amundson (From BC) that is offered from Costco.ca Costco Link Apparently it is a great deal that cost much more if you where to buy it direct from the company Amundson.ca I would love to hear any thoughts or opinions on this gear. Is it worth it, or should I just pass it up?? Thanks for reading!

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And dynamite (true story!!!)