jace

They look completely different to me. One has an orange feather with orange krystal flash. the other has a fuscia feather with pearl krystal flash.

and a price list too.

first piece of advice is customs almost always end up heading towards rods taht cost more than anything you buy off the shelf. just don't let the wife know and don't apply the blank labels. The first few will probably be less expensive, then the floodgates open when you see the world of high end parts and possibilites you never see on a factory rod. Give the micros a shot. They've been on custom rods for maybe 1.5 years and 2 major rod companies have announced micro rods in their lineups. If you think the split grips made a fast transistion from customs to factory, i think micros will become even more popular.

There are a few companies that offer counter balance butts. fuji and matagi have nice screw on types with disc weights. Be prepared to pay through the nose for anything made by Matagi. Batson has a more permanent weighted butt cap where you select the weight you want on the end. If your buttcap is plastic, you can pull it off and glue tungsten weights in the blank. If your rod has a cork/eva/rubberized-cork butt cap, you can drill through it to glue in your weights, or tear off the cap and replace it. Balance is nice but be careful adding weight. At the end of the day, most people will prefer lighter gear.

unless the US is now a canadian province, you win nothing.

It was to stop the line from getting the big tangles on the shaft under the spool. funny you don't remember that. I still have anxiety when i'm using an unskirted spool because it happened so frequently when i was young. the other reason is improved casting. without the line whacking away inside the rotor cup, your long distance casts go farther.

good idea but it definitely has some limitations. It would only work if you have no passworded accounts so anybody could get in and use it right away (a computer not used on a windows directory/domain etc?). I know the first thing i do when i buy a used computer is install the operating system. I don't even care what's on the drive. I remember seeing another similar program that wrote itself to the mbr of the harddrive so as long as windows was installed or reinstalled, it would still be there. the only way to get rid of it would be to rewrite the drive partitions which isn't too common, or rewrite the mbr which is even more rare.

In the rare case where there is a choice of 1 or 2 piece for the same model rod, the 2 piece are ore expensive, if you want to call that an advantage of 1 piece? I don't know. With high end rods, there are almost no 2 piece rods except in fly rods and spin/cast rods 8' and longer. It would be safe to say the top model from each company has no multi piece spin/cast rods under 8'. I would say multipiece rods have more disadvantages. The only disadvantage of 1 piece is transport and storage. that's it..

I've had 2 and 4 stroke toys. I'd have to say i prefer the 2 stroke. I like the noise and smells, more immediate power, and they're generally lighter weight. The biggest consideration for the average person i think would be the different maintenance schedules. 2 strokes require more frequent service for the small, every day things. The 4 stroke needs a little less for both everyday and long term maintenance but the cost is greater when you need it done, like rebuilds. it all balances out. It sounds like this bike will be for fun so just get whichever comes your way when it's time to buy

the best stuff i ever had was something by gillette. I forget what it was called but it came in a bottle shaped like deodorant and you squirt it out of a pinhole in the top. non aerosol. A small drop is all you would need stuff smeared on super slick when it got wet, almost like the white strip stuff only not as gooey. The last 2 bottles i bought were on a clearance table for a quarter each and they lasted several years each. I suspect that's why they pulled it from the market. I would pay $30 for another bottle if i could find one, at this point, the only place you might find it is at a cornerstore on a lonesome road. ...this product left the market maybe 15 years ago. forgot to say this stuff didnt' foam. It was blue but went on pretty clear.

I have a small collection of old razors from the 50's and 60's that i snatched from my father and grandfather. There was a time i used them every day but then i switched back to the Atra. The double edge blades were $5/10-pack not that long ago, then in the high tech razor blitz that happened a few years ago (starting with the Sensor), the DE blades somehow also got raised up to $12-15 and some are sold in 5 packs. I've seen inexpensive 100packs of blades on Amazon but there are too many counterfeits online for me to bother with them. And the other reason is i got lazy. It's nice having a blade head that moves to the face instead of having to move my hand to change the blade angle. I still have the brush, soap and razors out, i just don't use them as often.

went out with 2 friends last weekend. didn't get anything, didn't even see anybody get anything. for the knife, Sinker is right. full lifetime warranty on Bucks. Your knife looks pretty new with a few nicks but it still the original edge and everything so it should be an easy exchange, maybe forget to tell you were using it as a log splitter. I stick to other brands now mostly because Buck uses a variety of 440 or 420HC for almost all of their blades

I've got them and they're nice reels, they're the best value for an all-machined reel. I had a 5.3/sx which is gone to a friend now (advertised here on OFC a while ago) and now i've got the 2 speed SX. I also have the open spool saltist (like the one you're looking at but non levelwind) which is also a great reel but my latest in this class is a Saltiga. There's no comparison between an all machined reel like the avets and anything abu puts out. I think the only way to decide is to try one and see if it's for you. As far as drags go, it's tough to beat a lever drag for lockdown power and ease of adjustment, moving the lever 2" takes it from open spool to full-on drag. One thing you should think about though is most of these reels do not turn over automatically when you're using it for casting, but that's how it is for the heavy weight surf/jig spinning reels too. This can be a bit bothersome but it becomes second nature...just like those casters who switch hands to cast then switch back.

A place with truly good service would not let it get this far with any customer, so I see it how you i see it. Any sort back-pedaling after the fact is just damage control not customer service.

I have bluechart maps and these are areas i have detailed coverage for or know Garmin has available BOQ, LStClair, Nipissing kawarthas, anything trent severn, L Simcoe, Rice, rideau waterway, lake of bays, and of course all the great lakes

garmin used to have a mapquest pan/zoom type setup for their products so you could see the detail for an area you're interested in. I have bluechart also and I got it for the west coast pacific and around swo with coverage of most large lakes. very small lakes and rivers will show but don't mark structures or soundings.

Yes, it's a real FC line, not a co-polymer. Try it for yourself, you might like it. Vanish was one of the early FC lines and it's still on the market so it must be selling. As for using it as leader material, it depends on the fish and conditions. The only line i wouldn't use as leader is Sufix elite mono, it's soft and one of the least abrasion resistant lines i've ever used.

Cabela's SLA's are very hard to beat even if you pay full price for them. ~$200 USD. They go on sale probably every year, and they're on sale now for $95 but only one smaller size is left...with the $20 off $100 offer they just had, that would make it impossible to beat excluding buying a used reel

On a float rod, it's pretty easy to do it from the handle end up becasue the diameter barely changes from the butt to the foregrip. There will be a slight gap in the bored out grip but your other option is to remove the guides and come down from the ferrule end. On a magnum taper bass blank, it's a different story because the diameter change from the butt to the foregrip can be huge. It's not impossible to do these from the butt end but the job won't be as clean unless it's an EVA grip or cork with big winding checks.

surface scratches can be filled in if your rod has a clear finish. if you don't like looking at marks, light scratches can be polished out of a blank if it's bare, unfinished graphite like many top shelf rods/blanks. deep scratches that cut the fibers cannot be repaired. that likely is where the rod will snap. this is especially true for nicks made near the tip of the rod from a bad cast where the lure hits.

I agree with everybody else here. Cabelas is in a league of its own if you're comparing it to BPS. In product offerings, service and sale pricing, I don't know if anybody else in retailing is even close to Cabelas, either online or retail locations. I have a few cabelas rods from the top 1/2 of the product lines and they're well made using high quality components. Not long ago, they were selling some of their XMLTi spinning/casting rods for $30-50...that's less than the cost of the titanium alloy guides used on them. I don't think you'll find too many people disappointed with cabelas fishing rods. Some of the store brand reels have been stinkers, but most of them are good, especially the rebuilt and rebranded daiwa models.

i don't think there's anything you can do. part of the user agreement is that you've agreed to rogers sharing your info with any of their divisions and outside business partners. That deal also continues for a specified period after you cancel services. maybe it's 6 months?

if you're nterested in a little upgrade, how about an Ultegra? it's the jdm stradic. I have 4, a few years old barely used, will likely sell 2.

nice coho. didn't think it was that small. hehe The tails upper lobe spotting and silverness will be less pronounced later. and the thicker wrist is obvious in the full shot angle.