buckhorn250 Posted January 12, 2017 Report Posted January 12, 2017 Hi Looking to add a kicker to my Lund Impact 1875. Most likely will go with a used Mercury 15EL with a Panther tilt and trim. My question is what is the best way to control steering, trottle and shift. Was planning on using a steering bar but still not certain about best controls. Any recommendations would be appreciated. thanks
BillM Posted January 12, 2017 Report Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Steering bar + Trollmaster. That's what we use and it's fantastic. I really didn't want another set of controls up front. Edited January 12, 2017 by BillM
G.mech Posted January 12, 2017 Report Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Troll masters are great for speed control, I have one on my old boat. I'm actually leaning towards the iTroll for the new one though, I like the idea of the 'hunt' feature and it will also control a remote steering system if I decide to go that way later but for now it's a tie bar. Given the layout of my new boat I had to put remote start/choke, & shift/throttle on it but it gets pretty expensive and you'd likely be fine without it. I often troll with the kicker set straight for propulsion and let the Terrova autopilot steer and trim the speed which works fine too. http://www.itroll.us/itroll.buy.html Edited January 12, 2017 by G.mech
buckhorn250 Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Posted January 13, 2017 Thanks guys...appreciate the insight.
dave524 Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 thirty some years ago I went for an EZ Steer, was and still is ridiculously expensive for what you get, but works well http://www.ezsteer.com/
BillM Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 thirty some years ago I went for an EZ Steer, was and still is ridiculously expensive for what you get, but works well http://www.ezsteer.com/ I dunno why people buy these to be honest. The front mount system we use is so cheap (A piece of threaded rod, 2 ball ends and you're good to go). Plus I don't have to lean over the back of the boat to disconnect it.
dave524 Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 I dunno why people buy these to be honest. The front mount system we use is so cheap (A piece of threaded rod, 2 ball ends and you're good to go). Plus I don't have to lean over the back of the boat to disconnect it. The front mount works great if both motors are mounted on the transom, I tried the threaded rod ball joint route for a couple of years but the geometry of the main on the transom and the kicker on the bracket when lowered to operating position was far back of the main and lower as well resulting in a rod that was crookeder than dog's hind leg and prone to binding, the back of the motor connection was straight across and worked flawlessly.
G.mech Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) On the boat in question you should be able to use the front link. The quick disconnect joints are nice so you can easily remove the bar when not in use. You can either buy the quick disconnect ball joints and make your own connecting rod or buy the panther kit and cut/bend to suit: https://www.amazon.ca/Panther-55-2401-Auxiliary-Motor-Steering/dp/B003E1OBTI https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IVD0LU/ref=pe_140030_221599160_em_1p_0_ti Note that the thread is 3/8-24-NF so you need a fine thread die to make your own. I just made one for the new boat with 3/8 dia aluminum round bar, threaded the ends and put a piece of 1/2" electrical shrink sleeve over the whole length. Looks like a nice black rubber coating that came from the factory! Edited January 13, 2017 by G.mech
BillM Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 The front mount works great if both motors are mounted on the transom, I tried the threaded rod ball joint route for a couple of years but the geometry of the main on the transom and the kicker on the bracket when lowered to operating position was far back of the main and lower as well resulting in a rod that was crookeder than dog's hind leg and prone to binding, the back of the motor connection was straight across and worked flawlessly. I could see if you ran the kicker on a bracket how the front mounted setup wouldn't work.
buckhorn250 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks guys. I checked out all of these units. None seem to have power trim control...any suggestions on how best to control tilt?
G.mech Posted January 26, 2017 Report Posted January 26, 2017 The panther trim & tilt kit you mentioned comes with it's own up/down control buttons as far as I can tell...
buckhorn250 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Posted January 26, 2017 sorry...my mistake. Changed my mind and went with a motor with built in power trim
G.mech Posted January 26, 2017 Report Posted January 26, 2017 So you got a merc pro-kicker or something then? If you can't reach the tilt button on the side of the motor you can either buy a remote tilt button at Bass Pro or somewhere (I think they are about 60 bucks) and wire it yourself or you can buy a kit from Merc (assuming that's what you got) for about $120 that has a little remote button and harness assembly to make the tie ins all neat and tidy. I have the part number and diagrams for it somewhere if you need them.
buckhorn250 Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Posted January 27, 2017 Can the front steering bar stay on all the time or do you have to remove it?
BillM Posted January 27, 2017 Report Posted January 27, 2017 I disconnect ours from the kicker when I'm making fast runs with the main. Although it really depends on your setup, both ball ends have lots of movement, you might be fine with keeping it attached all the time. Just check it in the garage before you hit the water.
G.mech Posted January 27, 2017 Report Posted January 27, 2017 I take mine off too. It may be okay on but I don't need anything jambing up the steering on the main at 50 mph....they unhook in seconds so I don't take the chance.
BillM Posted January 27, 2017 Report Posted January 27, 2017 ^-- Yup, it's a 2 second deal to disconnect the entire thing.
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