RangerGuy Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) So I got the transducer plate installed. I was happy that I could raise the board up a little higher than 1/4 inch and still get the transducer all the way below the boat at the lowest setting. I haven't installed the ducer just held it up before pre-drilling the holes. I do not like working on aluminum hulls. I much prefer glass way easier to correct if you make a mistake hahaha! Now I have to wait 5-7 days for the 3M 5200 to cure Anyways, I was very surprised to not hit any wood when I pre-drilled the mounting holes. I thought the entire transom was wood surrounded by aluminum. This does concern me a bit. I hope the screws hold Here she is I think it worked out well. Sorry for the formatting I'm on my phone. Edited June 29, 2012 by RangerGuy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 That will work. If your boat is the same as mine, the wood in the transom only goes down as far as the water line. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish4Eyes Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Looks good man. Did you use that plastic place I referred you to in Hamilton? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Looks good man. Did you use that plastic place I referred you to in Hamilton? Thanks I actually ended up getting the piece from Peidmount plastics. I just could not get to Hamilton and wanted to be in person to order to make sure it was the right size. I know, I know I worry to much. Man that 3M 5200 stuff takes along time to cure it's still very soft. I noticed some bubbling this morning so I popped them with a small nail and dripped some in the tiny holes. If when this stuff hardens up a bit and I still have a few bubbles on the top of the joint. I'll re-tape and cut them out and re-run the top seal... The war against water continues HAHA! I still don't get why they don't run wood all the way to the bottom.. would be much easier for mounting stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Just checked the board while home for lunch.... It's flexing a bit in the heat.. so I think I'm gonna put another screw in the center and fill the screw hole with the sealant first to help combat the flexing... Today is a good test for the board expanding since it's stinking hot out LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msp Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Can you please explain why you did this ? Is it so that you can get the transducer as low as possible ? Will it still be able to read the depth at higher speeds ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 The plate is so that you only have to drill holes in your hull once.. If I change a transducer or add one I don't need to drill more holes into the boat.. just the mounting plate.. make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bare foot wader Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 great posts with pictures ranger guy, been following your boat, nice rig I bought my first decent sized boat back in feb, a used 17' lund pro angler ss...i'll be upgrading to an hds next couple of weeks and been looking up tranducer plates, my lund manual says not to drill any holes for the plate below the water line, but from what i've researched it seems nobody actually follows this??? I'm leaning towards going with a larger transducer plate to screw above the water line and just wondering if i should use an adhesive between the hull and plate? and whats the best way to seal the old holes? I'm thinking a rivet or anything else would create a gap between the hull and plate, maybe just some good marine silicone? here's a few pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue pickeral Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Mr. Sticky's Polybinder will hold the plate to the transom. It worked well for me without putting holes in the hull. Eventually I did put 2 bolts through once I was sure where everything went. Some expert on here says you can't glue starboard or like material but mine worked fine with the polybinder. There are 2 versions of the 3m marine 5200 - one is the quick cure - takes 2 days. The quick cure is recommended for your use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) I used the slow cure 3M 5200 because I couldn't find black in the fast cure. I applied it Thursday evening and today I noticed its almost fully cure like a hard rubber Instructions say 5-7 days. My manual actually says to install it below the water line and to seal with silicone. Now that I've looked closer at my hull. I'd prefer it below the water line because I have no wood just aluminum nothing to rot. If you get a leak it would just be into the bilge and you would notice and can reseal it. Edited July 3, 2012 by RangerGuy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue pickeral Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 If you have to re - do it for some reason, consider using a couple of stainless steel bolts instead of screws. You have your holes made already, pass the bolts through the hull and use a stainless nut to secure. Seal around the nut. Counter sink your plastic plate at the fastening holes. Slide on over the bolts/hull nuts and then use two more nuts to hold on the plastic plate. Some sealant can be used between the plastic plate and the hull at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 I wanted to thru bolt but I can't see how to get to the inside of the transom. The area is sealed off and side plate blocking the area is riveted. But really thru bolt is not required for a transducer plate. Stainless steel metal screws create threads in the hole as they are screwed in and tighten up nicely. Atlease they did for me Man that 3M 5200 cures nice, it's like hard rubber and gave a SOLID seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msp Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 The plate is so that you only have to drill holes in your hull once.. If I change a transducer or add one I don't need to drill more holes into the boat.. just the mounting plate.. make sense? Yep, makes sense. Do you guys know how to mount the transducer so that I can get a depth reading at high speeds ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Yep, makes sense. Do you guys know how to mount the transducer so that I can get a depth reading at high speeds ? What exactly do you mean by high speeds? My lowrance will show depth at 30mph if its not real bumpy. Its usually the height, and level of the 'ducer that makes the difference. Mine likes to be tipped down just a little, rather than perfectly level. If I'm downrigging, I usually tip it up, so the beam is pointed a little to the back of the boat. It picks up my cannonballs, and sometimes even my dipsies if they're close enough, but it won't mark bottom at high speed. You could have it mounted too close to a strake along the bottom of the boat, too close to the engine, or even a line of rivets. Anything that will create air bubbles going under the 'ducer will throw it off at high speeds. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 From what I've read about mounting trandsucers on riveted aluminum boats is you have to treat the rivets as the bottom when setting the depth of the transducer. So your transducer has to be deeper than the rivets so as to get smooth water to pass under it, often guys will complain about a rooster tail coming from it and build a sheild that screws to the transducer plate above the transducer bracket to deflect the spray down. For me I have an issue because my boat is a duck boat as well so will be either sitting on the bottom or very close so I have to remember to tilt the ducer up before setting it into shore, which kind of sucks cause I know I'm gonna forget haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 My ducer comes right off for duck season! Been there, done that.....it gets expensive quick S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerGuy Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) I might do that as well Sinker hehehe! Oh and if you know anybody selling a used avery quick set blind the 18-20' model. I'd be very grateful if you pm me thier contact info Edited July 4, 2012 by RangerGuy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now