Question for the Musky crowd

[johnnyb]

I know we have a bunch of great musky anglers on the board, so I figure you can answer this pretty quickly for me:

 

When throwing double-bladed spinners, should I be expecting more resistance than a single blade?

 

I predominantly throw singles, like big buchertail straight-shaft spinners, but last year I saw a double bladed model on ebay that caught my eye, and was cheap, so I picked it up.

 

Finally got around to throwing it on the weekend, and was surprised at how fast I had to crank just to keep the blades spinning. Also noticed that they would skip really easily. I'm used to the big blades on my singles giving me lots of resistance and really throbbing....so do I have a crappy bait, or do you really have to burn these suckers in?

 

P.S> just thought I would add that I used a combo I picked up from OFC'er Dave A -- a 6'10 St.Croix with an Abu 6000 on it.....blew me away! Was not expecting the reel to be soooo smooth, and handled the heavy cranking with ease If you see this guy clearing out tackle, jump on it -- he prices his stuff right and takes really good care of it...felt like I was fishing brand new equipment. Thanks Dave!!!!

[Raf]

double bladed baits should be 'harder' to reel in due to the increase resistance of the two blades

 

the increased resistance (or two blades spinning) should also generate more lift, meaning that you should not have to crank as hard to keep up a bait up compared to an identical single bladed bait.

 

if your bait 'skips' a beat, it's not right. check to make sure the wire is straight and that the clevis spins freely. most of the better baits add a bead above the clevis to act as a bit of a bearing. the blades may also be hitting the skirt or hooks. hard to say without looking at it.

[johnnyb]

Blades def'ly aren't hitting the skirt or hooks....this is a straight-shaft as well.....the clevises intertwine. Here's a pic of the exact bait:

 

[bigbuck]

Tossing one of those will end up pulling the boat towards it. Great colour.

[Nipfisher]

Blades def'ly aren't hitting the skirt or hooks....this is a straight-shaft as well.....the clevises intertwine. Here's a pic of the exact bait:

 

 

Wicked Nipissing colours Johnny.

[mike rousseau]

Usually of you have to burn to keep em spinning AND the blades keep skipping you got a bad product.... You may be able to fix it by bending the blades or flattening the cup of the blades with some pliers.... But next time I'd go with a Handlebarz inline instead....

[johnnyb]

Nice to see everyone agreeing with me on colour....sounds like I need to tweak this thing though. I KNOW I should be flingin the Handlebarz bling...this was super cheap so I grabbed it. Sigh. I know.

[Handlebarz]

If there is a problem it could be tge Clevis not the blades check them and make sure they are rounded if not take needle nose pliers and squeeze them closed a bit.

 

It could be tge blades as there are junk blades out there that were bought by some from over seas they never ran right so they were cleared out at a cheap price I had some they were size 9-10's I'm glad I just bought a few I trashed them but others still use them.

 

As for thump you will notice a lot more resistance with two but one size 10 blade feels different as you can almost feel each turn.

 

What size are the blades?

[johnnyb]

Pretty sure these are 8's....I will make a few tweaks next time and see what happens. Thanks for the input, guys.

[Handlebarz]

If they are regular size 8 blades not deep cup it is most likely the clevises but with size 8 blades you need to give them a quick snap when you first start to reel this should get them spinning. Painted ones are hardere to spin nice. One thing about beads I have found you need a good quality solid bead just before the blades I do not add one above the blades it's just for show I was using tg before but it does not help with spinning.