Transom Rebuild/Replacement Questions

[Dutch]

I am going to tackle the transom of my 1989 Springbok Aluminum in the next couple of weeks. This is a fully size bass-boat type set-up. I noticed a little bowing in the transom last year and checked out the wood and it seemed in pretty rough shape in spots. I have read a lot about this project on other forums and am going to tackle it like so:

 

Laminate at least two 3/4" marine plywood, to make at least 1.5". Yes I am using marine ply, not PT or ACX, ABX and going to pay for it. I am not playing around with $50-$100 bucks here or there when that transom holds a 300-400 pound Evinrude 150. I want to do it right, but by myself for the satisfaction. I will get the true thickness when I pull the Motor off and get a look at the existing wood.

 

Question 1 - Any hints/tricks at unhooking/pulling the motor off the boat? It's a 1989 Evinrude 150HP. Heavy. I have a motor lift to use (and a front-end loader it the lift isn't high enough), more worried about detaching the wires, controls etc. from the motor. Is there a place I need to hook on to the motor, or some special thing to use to lift it off the boat?

 

Question 2 - I have read to use 2 part epoxy to laminate the ply, running the wood in opposite directions. Where do I get the epoxy? All the stuff I have read on the web talks about US suppliers - Where can I get something in Canada? I want this thing to be bullet proof when I am done.

 

Question 3 - Waterproof the final product made after question 2, by covering/painting with epoxy. Is this the same epoxy used in step 1? If not what do I use?

 

Question 4 - Re-hanging the motor. What bolts do I use and where do I get them. Do I need to torque them and to what spec? I want to use new bolts, not the originals. Do I need to do anything special to "align" it on the new and hopefully improved transom?

 

Any comments/hints/tips/general support is be appreciated.

 

Thanks for the help.

Edited April 4, 2007 by Dutch

[Pigeontroller]

Hey Dutch, I commend you for wanting to do this yourself. But the questions your asking make me think you should be having a Marine mechanic do the engine R&R...

[keram]

I think I can give you advice in :

 

RE: Q2

 

I've bought mine in Whitby (marina), I did seen it in Home hardware store in Oshawa.

Laminating the ply in opposite direction ????. If anything, you should do it the way so the grain is perpendicular, but because you are going to use ply there are already quite few layers laminated at 90 deg angle in each sheet.

 

Re Q3

 

Use the same 2 part epoxy. Particularly on the edges ( end grain )

 

If you decide to use 2 part epoxy, the most important thing is to follow the instruction to the letter ( there are no "ifs" and "buts" ) trust me

 

As to how to remove the motor I have no clue, in my case I just grab it and put aside ( 9.9 Merc)

[Roy]

Hey Dutch, I was at a marine mechanic's place 2 weeks ago and they were removing a large motor from a bass boat. I don't know what make it was nor the HP but it was bigger than a 100hp. They removed the cowl and screwed an eye bolt into the top. They put a hook through it and hoisted it with a lift.

[Bernie]

We use factory supplied lift rings. Most thread into the end of the crankshaft.

Your old bolts if stainless should be ok. Look at the threads to see if they are stretched or cracked.

If replacement required see your local marine supplier for some quality stainless bolts.

I also agree with Keram on the plywood not crossing but the outside grain should go horizontal.

Edited April 4, 2007 by Nipissing

[SlowPoke]

Hey Dutch,

Been there, done that....

I used West System Epoxy for my transom. I didn't like paying the price for it but a couple years after doing so, the guy I sold the boat to hit a rock at 30+ mph and tore the bottom end of the motor. He said there was no damage to the transom whatsoever and still looked better than his dining room table. I would credit that to this epoxy's ability to flex without cracking thus keeping your wood sealed. Another product I'd recommend is Sicoflex to seal any openings from bolt holes and mounting screws.

Another unique product is Seacast. Never used it but I like the idea...

http://transomrepair.com/zk/

 

My transom project...

[tinbanger]

on Our old boat (14' springbok ) I had a newer 40hp mercury Force installed .Had marina handle the install,wiring etc ( should have shopped around for a better price)

 

But had a friend beef up the transom with aluminum plate .

Basically we reskinned the entire rear exterior of the transom and 'wrapped' up and over the existing wood transom (wood was in good condition) .This acomplished two things raised motor mount 1" ( longer shaft on Force) and strengthened the transome .

Also moved controls from left hand (console model) to right hand side with a custom aluminum bracket.

 

Boat ran well allbeit a bit scarey at times .

 

I would do the same again if needed

 

TB