bucktail Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Wondering if someone could give me a few pointers on flippin and pitchin help mostly pitching. I have a couple Crucial - Curado flippin sticks loaded with 50pound Power and now one with 50 pound 832. I was wondering how you guys had your reels setup? I have mine backed off all the way but still get the initial over run on the biat especially when i am trying to skip something under a doc and such. I keep wondering if I am missing something. Any help would be appreciated. Darren Edited June 8, 2011 by bucktail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrison Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Your thumb is your friend when pitching. Thumbing the spool is the key. Don't back it off all the way when you are starting. It is all about practice!!!! Nothing else to say. You can try a explain how to do it, but practice is the only real answer. After years of practice I can now even skip side arm with a baitcaster. One thing to mention is to use your strong arm on the rod, if you can. good Luck Phil edit - as for flipping the reel should be engaged. Edited June 8, 2011 by Harrison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fang Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Try starting with the free spool backed off a tad more than for basic casting and start with a heavier weight say 3/4 oz. Get a decent 10 yard flip going and work on getting the lowest lure level off the water and a soft landing. From there you can work on distance and backing the free spool off a little more. If when you flip the lure keeps raising higher off the water then that's a sign your free spool is still a little too tight. I do a lot of practice in the back yard walking around and flipping to the base of trees, planters, under lawn chairs. It helps get in the groove before hitting the water As said your thumb is your best control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry2Rs Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 This is what I do... I loosen the friction knob under the crank handle all the way off. I will stop the spool with my thumb. I turn the magnetic or centrifugal brakes all the way on...I don't want the spool to out accelerate the bait. Drop the rod tip and raise it sharply to cast...Drop the bait as you begin to raise the rod. the bait should should pendulum out. Remember this is a short range technique, meant to cast about 30 feet...Yes you can cast farther, but it was designed for very close, precision work in heavy cover. Being able to make an underhand cast 50 or 60 feet is all-well-and-good, BUT the key to success is having the bait make a silent, splash free entry that is right on target. In my opinion, on longer casts you're better off skipping a Senko or tube into the target than pitching a jig that is out of control and lands like a kid doing cannonballs. Garry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msp Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you are learning and practicing skipping with a baitcaster try this...... Take a nice long cast and then add a small piece of electrical tape to your spool. This will stop the over ride and bad birds nests from happening. If you still get the odd birds nest it will only be as far as your original cast. When you have perfected this technique you can take the tape off. I hope this makes sense. I also agree with Garry. Stick to skipping senkos and weightless tubes. The soft entry wont spook fish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EC1 Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I think you're going to get like many different settings for this. First off, I'm practicing the pitch skipping myself lately too, and when I read from what others are writing online, it says to pretty much turn off all brakes (or maybe to a very low setting), and even have your tension knob loose too. Skipping also has a lot to do with where you let your bait make contact with water. Too close to yourself and it goes nowhere, too far and it might not skip. Their reasoning is because with brakes on, you will have to put more juice into your cast, and that is where you start casting hard at the water, and the one time your thumb is late, you will be looking at a beastly backlash. I had one of these a couple nights ago, and it damn took me nearly 2 hours to fix the line......(I just spooled some Daiwa Braid on and was not going to waste an entire spool of line.) As for me, normal pitching I've been using minimal brakes and a light spool tension. It's all in your thumb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrison Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Being able to make an underhand cast 50 or 60 feet is all-well-and-good, BUT the key to success is having the bait make a silent, splash free entry that is right on target. Agree with this alot of the time, however sometimes you have to ring the dinner bell. Bucktail, fire me a PM next time you are swinging through Bowmanville on your way back from the Kawarthas. We'll head down to the bay here and I'll show you some tips. Edited June 8, 2011 by Harrison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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