Trailcraft Bearing Seal

[radar]

Wish I took a picture before I put it all back together. Figure that anyone who knows what I'm talking about would understand any.

 

I have an 88 Springbok and an older Trailcraft trailer.

 

My axle changes diameter from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" right at the hub. The bearing seal normally does does not sit flush in the hub.The inside fits in the 1 1/4" but it flares at the back and accepts the 1 1/2" portion.

 

A normal bearing seal in the kits prevents the hub from going on far enough so the castle nut won't clear the cotter pin hole.

 

I've tried the previous owner, Can Tire, my mechanic, Princess Auto, Jensen Trailers, 2 Marine Supply shops, SFW wharehouse, Canadian Bearings.

 

Now I know why he had the Bearing Buddies on, to make sure there was always grease. The seals are blown. Think I did it - didn't know what I was doing and thought I was being responsible topping them up.

 

I figure I'm changing the axle or buying a new - used trailer unles somebody here can help me out. I put the Bearing buddies back on for the short term.

[Fisherman]

If I understand this correctly, you're saying that the rear seal is shaped somewhat like an icecream cone. The rubber seal protrudes beyond the edge of the metal lip to ride on the 1.5" portion of the axle? I looked up P/A, they do have a 1.5" seal.

[Muskieman]

get a C/R seal... Chicago Rawhide...

 

Get an accurate OD (outside diameter) and an ID (inside diameter) of your existing seal and call them at 1-800-882-0008... their service is excellent!!

 

try this first with the existing part # on the seal ( they all have one) weather on the rubber part or the metal part..

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm

 

I used to do this everyday and 99% of the time ended up ordering the right seal for my client.

 

Easy as 3.14..

 

Randy

[radar]

Randy that sounds exactly like what I'm looking for. Of course before I thought of posting this I threw it all back together to clear the garage for the wife. Now you need to picture me smacking my forehead saying D'OH!!!! Because I didn't write the part number down.

Thanks.

[vinnimon]

Randy that sounds exactly like what I'm looking for. Of course before I thought of posting this I threw it all back together to clear the garage for the wife. Now you need to picture me smacking my forehead saying D'OH!!!! Because I didn't write the part number down.

Thanks.

 

If you decide to pull the hub again, pull the seal out. On the inner side there will be a # stamped on it. All suppliers will have a crossreference chart Buy the best for the extra buck or two. If I remember corretly, its national seal that has an extra inner lip on the seal. CR is good but I prefer stemco seals for what I do.

[DRIFTER_016]

If you decide to pull the hub again, pull the seal out. On the inner side there will be a # stamped on it. All suppliers will have a crossreference chart Buy the best for the extra buck or two. If I remember corretly, its national seal that has an extra inner lip on the seal. CR is good but I prefer stemco seals for what I do.

 

Right, if you have the part # you can walk into Napa or other auto parts store and they can order one up if they don't have it. I usually end up walking in with the inner and outer bearings and seal when purchasing replacements.

[vinnimon]

A side note, wash the bearings. Any score marks and/or discoloration on the bearings or race. TOSS THEM OUT!and replace them.

[brifishrgy]

A side note, wash the bearings. Any score marks and/or discoloration on the bearings or race. TOSS THEM OUT!and replace them.

 

 

don't toss em out, repack em and put them in a zip lock and put them with your car/truck jack (along with a couple extra cotter pins), they will do in an emergency

[radar]

Thanks guys. I. Know where the code is. I had it at the bearing companies. I replaced them and they are already in the tool kit as a backup.

Edited April 16, 2011 by radar