Handlebarz Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hey all I have a little problem here my furnace did not want to work all night so early today I called the local guy to come otu and fix it sure enough not a clue sais a repair man will be out tomorow?????? WTH Here is what I got Rudd out side unit with A/C model# URKA AO24JK06E I have looked around the net and cant find the right answer yet. The problem When I turn the switch to call for heat the large fan come's on right away as if I had just switched it to (FAN ON) mode the Blower exaust fan does not cycle on the ignition spark does not happen and yes no heat. When the tec got here he pulled the breaker and put it back on sure enough it worked he was ready to call it a day when it turned off after just 10 min of me talking to him (good thing I can talk or he would have been on his way home) He check alot of things and said all is well???? He said he did not have a manual for this but someone at the shop might and they can come out tomorrow???? I have a couple heaters going to keep the house from hitting lower then the 55 it is right now. The filter was a little plugged but not completly I changed it in late Sept so I can not see that being the problem. Any help thanks alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Oh yeah the code from the flashing was 5 flashes of the red light. He could not tell me what that was from and made no attempt to call another tech to find out what it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookinforwalleye Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Sounds like the same thing mine was doing recently turned out to be something called a ventor motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douG Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) I can't find the code list for your Ruud, but every other year or so, my furnace acts up in a similar way to yours. I've learned that there is a flame sensor that looks like a bent piece of welding rod, a couple of inches long, that sits just in front of one of the gas nozzles. I unbolt it from its holder and polish it with a piece of fine sand paper, emery cloth or steel wool. Pop it back in, and then it works. Give that a try, Mr. Eh. Stay warm, and let me know if that works. I know that it's a panicky feeling when you know that your house will eventually get close to the outside temp without a furnace. There is also some good info here. Edited January 31, 2010 by douG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danc Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 I can't find the code list for your Ruud, but every other year or so, my furnace acts up in a similar way to yours. I've learned that there is a flame sensor that looks like a bent piece of welding rod, a couple of inches long, that sits just in front of one of the gas nozzles. I unbolt it from its holder and polish it with a piece of fine sand paper, emery cloth or steel wool. Pop it back in, and then it works. Funny you should mention that Doug. I just got home from doing that exact thing at a friends house. If this is the problem, the flame should light for a few seconds and then go out. The furnace computer gives the flame sensor a few seconds to do its job. It it's not lighting at all it could be a pressure switch, flame roll out switch, or a bunch of other things. Its hard to diagnose with the info given. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinman Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 i agree with ya dan, in order for it to be the flame sensor you need flame, your furnace has to go through a bunch of safety checks first, pressure switch, or switches, flame roll out, etc, once those are proven then the gas valve gets the ok to light up, is this furnace a standing pilot, spark ignition or an hsi? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) not the sesor switch check it and it works. The unit does not even get that far. It has spark ignition The exaust fan or vent fan is not coming on the guy checked the pressure switch and said it was good he tested a couple more things and said all is fine so someone else will have to come out???? That is the part I am not happy with he did not even call another person who might have a clue what the problem is. He said he usually installs new units but they have him doing some weekend on call work which is not a good thing for a person who need some help on the weekend. Edited January 31, 2010 by MrEh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danc Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Try running direct power to the ventor motor. If it doesn't run, it's most likely gone. If it does run, something else is locking out the system. Have a close look for small in line fuses in the wiring and in the blower compartment. Also look for a small button near the burners. These are often red in color. If you locate one, simply press the button until it locks in place. That's about all I can tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinman Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Check the board too for what looks like an automotive fuse, if its is gone that will effect all your safeties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) I don't even know where you live but I have a kerosene radient heater that puts out a lot of heat and you are welcome to borrow and a CO monitor that you can plug in just for added security. If you are within an hours drive of Lindsay, I'll run it out to you. call me if you need it 705-328-0577 Edited January 31, 2010 by Big Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks for the Offer Cliff and thanks for the help wit hthe otehr things to look at most we covered earlier but i did not see any red buttons Dan. I hope a friend gets back to me as he might be able to help out if not I will have to wait for the repair guy tomorrow. This is just another reason that this place works so good with all the guys wanting to help out even if it did not help me this time, I bet that some where else it will and some one will be saying to there friend I remember reading this same problem on the OFC board (then have to explain what OFC is) so try this and WHAM there ya are fixed up. Thanks again guys for the PM's and help here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdelongchamp Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 I will work on everything and fix anything plumbing or electrical related but I do not touch gas fired furnaces. I let the techs do that for obvious safety reasons. I would not attemtp to fix a furmace or re-;ight anything. Wait for the tech, and after it is repaired have it serviced annually. No one wants to blow up their house or family. And dbl chk those smoke and CO detectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douG Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) Mr. Eh, my furnace has that blinking light, too, sort of like a morse code with short and long blinks. There is also a look up table sticker on the inside of the access panel that lists the patterns of blinks with descriptions of what those codes mean. Do you have a similar sticker? What comes up? As far as jumping or shorting relays and interlocks, I agree with guppy, don't do it. Even so, I came up with my fix one freezing Sunday night, and the service folks said that they could probably come out to see 'sometime on Tuesday'. I called a neighbour who works for the gas company over for a discussion, and he suggested that a false flame prover would cause the code I got, and to try giving it a clean. I now keep a 1/4 in socket driver and a piece of emery cloth beside the furnace. The only other thing I can suggest is to make sure that your two fans are running properly. The link I posted shows a typical ignition sequence for a furnace similar to yours. Good Luck, Eh? Edited January 31, 2010 by douG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daplumma Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 What douG said.There should be a schematic with the blink codes on it.Post what it is.If it reset and ran for 10 minutes it is prolly not have an issue proving flame.It may have lost the induced draft motor or the sensor that says its working.If its a vacuum switch you may have to clean the orifice where it picks up the vacuum.You can test this by applying vacuum (suck on it)to the diaphram and see if the furnace cycles normally.Good luck. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douG Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Is all nice and toasty now, MrEh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Not yet but I did get some good news bad news and good news. First good news they found the problem broken heat exchanger Why the other guy did not see I dont know??? Bad news its going to be around $1000 for the part. Bad news there is only a 10 year warranty on the thing and it was made in 1999 Good news I did not buy it until Sept 2000 WOOHOO So they will have to order the new part and said it will be here during the week sometime Good news the temp are on the rise and it will not be very cold for the rest of the week. Thanks again for all the help from my OFC family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Glad to hear that it will be fixed and under warrenty as a bonus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twocoda Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) 1000 $ ??? nope ...tell them to remove the entire unit then...and install a new one if its under warranty..play hardball with them edit ....make sure it a new part going in and not a reclaimed part from another furnace Edited February 1, 2010 by Twocoda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 10 year warranty was on the part not the whole thing there was different ones for each section from what I understand Heck I am happy they made good on it for that fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douG Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks for the update, Eh? Having to ship your family to a motel and leave the taps running is not a happy prospect until 'later in the week'. Really hope that it works out ok - nice job on the warranty. Sorta like the story - "What's that funny noise?" "It's the sound of your warranty expiring". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUSTER Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Glad to hear you got it figured out! good luck bud and neil moron said hi,talked to him last night cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NANUK Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) Heat exchanger is cracked? I understand its under warranty but are you paying for labour? a cracked heat exchanger should not stop ignition, furnace should still fire but you WILL get carbonmonoxide in the house. ask him to physically show you where the heat exchanger is broken. hard to say without actually checking but I have a feeling that is NOT the problem. flashing code should be on a sticker, either inside cover/pannel(fan section) or stuck somewhere around the electrical section of the furnace. Contact RUUD : http://www.ruud.com/Products/Heating_and_C...g/gas_furnaces/ You will need the model and serial numbers of the actual furnace not the outside AC unit. Edited February 2, 2010 by stonefish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 the code was from a sensor that was tripped due to the cracked exchanger from what this guy sais he seemed good not like the other guy this guy knew his stuff. Yes I have to pay Labour the unit is all outside and only has one mod# and Ser# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daplumma Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Not sure that a cracked heat exchanger would trip any code but I have been out of the trade for a few years.If it is thats pretty serious and it needs to be repaired.Good news is that its a very obvious problem and he should have no problem showing it to you.I wouldn't pay a dime until I saw a cracked exchanger.They dont go out that often unless they are abused. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handlebarz Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Joe he said it was because the flame was able to blow back and that caused it to trip what ever sensor??? Hey Brad Tell GUS I said Hey back to him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now