Drafty sliding glass doors

[fishing n autograph]

Hey all, got a question for the members on the board.

 

I've been living in my townhouse for 3 years now, and every year I've had the same problem. Once the weather starts to get cold, the sliding glass doors in the livingroom get really drafty and cold.

 

I've tried using a draft dodger (rolled up material) to stop the draft with limited success. Should I use weather stripping? If I do will that prevent me from opening the door?

 

Any suggestions to save me some money heating my house and limiting the number of cold mornings I have when the white stuff flies???

 

Thanks

 

 

Dave

[splashhopper]

Where is the draft coming from?

 

ie: from the vertical frame in the middle of the door or along the outer edges?

 

Weather stripping is gonna be the key, but make sure the wheels are working properly and not broken as well.. Broken wheels will not let the door "seat" properly and therefore not seal properly.

 

Another alternative is putting a storm door on the outside.... Pretty easy to install too ( screw gun / caulking if measured properly for fit).. just don't cheap out on the one you buy

[fishing n autograph]

The draft is coming from the bottom of the doors and from the actual glass itself...especially the door that doesn't move...not much air coming from the door that slides

[splashhopper]

it is likely the vertical seals in the middle of the door.... the air is probably coming out there and going across the stationary door.

 

Try the "peel and stick " FELT draft stopper first along that seem.. make sure you CLEAN the edges real well first .

 

The other thing you can do is buy the plastic window kits and install that on the stationary glass only( temp fix- but works quite well and is very easy to do)

 

But seriously look at a storm door on the outside...

[Jonny]

If you don't open your door in the really cold weather, you can cut down on the heat loss (or cold invasion, whichever you prefer) by cutting a couple of pieces of 1" white styrofoam out of a 4x8 sheet to block off the bottom half or so of the doors - in effect leaving what amouts to a regular "window" for view and for light. Cut the styrofoam so you can press fit it on the inside against the glass of the non-sliding door, and another piece on the outside of the sliding door, in between it and the slidiing screen.

 

Seal the seams in whatever way you prefer before applying the styrofoam.

 

I used to do this in Timmins (damn cold there!) and it worked pretty well for little expense and minimal effort.

[HTHM]

Replace the door.

[Twocoda]

if condensation is building up on the glass ( inside the house) then youll want to remove the trim and check that the RSO is insulated ...if the condensation is between the panes of glass then time to change the door ...579$ for a 5 footer 639$ for a 6 footer....RONA

 

Joko your idea is a good one ...R7.5 ISO board is 29$ for a 4x8 sheet...if you use tuck tape ( red stuff) to seal it ...pick up a Xylene based cleaner to remove the red film of glue it transfers to your trim/jams when its warm enough to take it apart

 

Good Luck

Edited November 17, 2009 by Twocoda

[pikehunter]

How old is it? Is it an aluminum framed door? If so time for a new one. If your townhouse has a board of governors or directors you will likely need permission and they may already have a program in place for replacement doors with a local contractor or they may dictate your options.

 

There are several good quality energy star rated vinyl sliding doors available, one of the best is the Novatech Imagine door, just google for it but it doesn't come cheap and is bulky and there are other good quality sliding doors out there too for less $'s. Another option is a good garden door made from a pair of insulated steel doors that look like french doors but you have to have the space for the door to swing inward.

 

A decent sliding vinyl door will set you back $650 +. A good garden door set up $1000+ and don't forget related items such as foam, shims, screws, caulking, trim etc. if you DIY. If installed by a reputable window and door installation company expect to pay $1600+ for a slider or $2000 plus for a garden door all inclusive.

 

If the budget is tight right now then use removable caulking available in the paint department at HD or a plastic shrink film kit also available at HD in the hardware department in the weather striping aisle. If you do seal the door with caulking you may create a hazard as you will be closing up an emergency escape route.

 

Need any help or questions drop me a PM and put my 20 years experience to good use for yourself, I have nothing to gain financially by assisting.

[Radnine]

Replace the door.

 

I concur.

We have a sliding door by Pella (all the widows as well). It cost more than my parents first house, but it is a beauty.

Jim

[Jonny]

Well sometimes replacing a door, especially with an expensive one, just isn't an option. The money may be tight.

 

Weather-stripping, styrofoam and/or shrink film may be the answer for a winter or two.

 

Failing that, I would install a stock patio door myself (i.e. RONA brand). It's WAY too expensive to get a contractor to do it and it's not that hard, if the door is a standard size (5x6 or 6x6). I've both replaced an old patio door (the one I used to "styrofoam") and I've framed-in and installed a new one. Neither was a difficult job. It is, however, definitely a two-man job because of the weight of the doors.

 

If installing a new door, it's worth a few extra bucks to buy a low-e (energy efficient) door.

 

---

 

Nice offer there, Pikehunter. If I were looking at a job like this for the first time, I'd definitely want to talk to you.

Edited November 18, 2009 by Jocko

[bigugli]

With most of the older units, and some new. Insulation during installation was non-existent. They may have also failed to seal the unit when installed. The actual unit may be fine. You need to remove the trim, if any, to check if it has been adequately insulated and sealed. I've had a few sub-contractors, when building houses, that I had to harass to ensure the job was done right.

[FSNmachine]

If you can't afford to replace it putting a single pane storm door on the outside is a cheaper alternative. I've done it before and was happy with the results.