Float fishing

[mpagnan]

All this summer I've been trying to get the hang of properly setting up a float rod. Unfortunately I just don't think I can get it right and it's driving me up the wall. Now I've down a lot of research with this forum and others on the internet but I still can't seem to nail it down. Here are the biggest issues I'm having:

 

1. The cast - at what angle should I be casting and should it be upstream?

 

2. The weight - should the float be cocked vertical or lie horizontal with the water?

 

3. The bait - I always find the bait drags behind the float, is the leader too long or what?

 

 

Any help on these questions would be great!

 

thanks

[muddler]

1. Yup, I cast upstream. Far enough to get my bait down to the strike zone where I think the trout are holding. In some situations all you can do is drop the float and bait in front of you and drift it into a hot spot.

 

2. Yes your float should be cocked and standing vertically. I like to bunch up my shot about 2-3 feet above my bait in fast water. That way when the float cocks up, I know that I'm in the strike zone...IE the bait has reached the proper depth. In slow water I spread the shot evenly below the float, the bait usually sinks quickly and it is in the strike zone.

 

3. You have to 'check' your float. That means to hold it back slightly so that the bait floats downstream first (most of the time). The surface water usually moves at a faster speed then the bottom water, thus the float will preceed your bait. If you are using flies, checking the flow will cause the fly to rise in the water column. This can trigger some viscious strikes too.

 

Experiment. There are NO sure thing answers. After 30+years of stelheading, I've tried them all. Everything/anything works one day and almost nothing the next day, that's why it's called 'fishing' not 'catching'. I always chuckle when I hear that XXXXXX is the best bait to use. I wish it was that simple all the time. Eperiment and gain confidence in a few methods then learn to broden your methods. There was a time when all I used was roe, then I got schooled by a guy using stone flies, then I got schooled by a fellow using pinkies, them buggers, then yarn, then worms , then ....... well you get the idea. Now with steelhead numbers declining it is getting harder and harder to catch them. Keep learning. I still am.

 

muddler

[mpagnan]

Muddler,

 

Thanks for the info. I picked up on one thing that you wrote that has been causing my the greatest headache. You wrote 'check' the float. How can you do that when you've already cast it upstream and all your line is out. Doesn't the float need to be past you in order to 'check' it?

[muddler]

You check the float as it floats downstream of you. If you are casting so far upstream that it is not possible to check it, then move further upstream to shorten your cast. You don't have to float a super long distance in most cases. Just a short 40-50 foot cast upstream if possible and 100 foot drift downstream. After a dozen drifts, move a couple of step downstream and repeat. These are just rough distances, they vary with the conditions you fish. In the eastern ditches a downsteam drift 50 feet is average for me and any upstrem cast is usually a bonus. On the Notty depending on the number of fishermen the downstream float can be pretty long. Again expeeriment, there is no one answer. Just try and get your drift so that the bait is in the strike zone for as long and as natural as possible. Use the upstream cast to give you time to noodle the float properly as it drifts by you, then check the float.

 

muddler.

[StoneFly]

1. Yup, I cast upstream. Far enough to get my bait down to the strike zone where I think the trout are holding. In some situations all you can do is drop the float and bait in front of you and drift it into a hot spot.

 

2. Yes your float should be cocked and standing vertically. I like to bunch up my shot about 2-3 feet above my bait in fast water. That way when the float cocks up, I know that I'm in the strike zone...IE the bait has reached the proper depth. In slow water I spread the shot evenly below the float, the bait usually sinks quickly and it is in the strike zone.

 

3. You have to 'check' your float. That means to hold it back slightly so that the bait floats downstream first (most of the time). The surface water usually moves at a faster speed then the bottom water, thus the float will preceed your bait. If you are using flies, checking the flow will cause the fly to rise in the water column. This can trigger some viscious strikes too.

 

Experiment. There are NO sure thing answers. After 30+years of stelheading, I've tried them all. Everything/anything works one day and almost nothing the next day, that's why it's called 'fishing' not 'catching'. I always chuckle when I hear that XXXXXX is the best bait to use. I wish it was that simple all the time. Eperiment and gain confidence in a few methods then learn to broden your methods. There was a time when all I used was roe, then I got schooled by a guy using stone flies, then I got schooled by a fellow using pinkies, them buggers, then yarn, then worms , then ....... well you get the idea. Now with steelhead numbers declining it is getting harder and harder to catch them. Keep learning. I still am.

 

muddler

 

 

That is great advice Muddler.

 

Pags, are you using a Centrepin? or a spinning reel?

[mpagnan]

Ok,so the float starts upstream and it is to pass you downstream. Now, should I close the bail as soon as the float hits the water up stream? And secondly, where should the strike zone be in position to where I'm standing?

[muddler]

Ok, so you're using a spinning reel. A float reel makes it a bit easier to control your float but a spinning outfit can also be used. In fast water just feather the line as it goes downstream by putting your finger on the side of the spool pinching the line to the spool. Be prepared to close the bail quickly if the float does anything unusual. In slower water you can just close the bail and reel backwarks to let out line. With a spinning reel your drifts are a bit shorter than with a float reel. As for where you should be standing in relation to the strikezone, that depends on the fishing conditions. The ideal is slightly up stream of where you think the fish is, but shore terrain, water current and depth may not allow you to do that. I've had strikes at my feet, upstream (just as the float cocks) and way down stream and in between. There is no set spot. Steelhead can be very unpredictable. It's been a learning process for 30+ years and I still don't have all the answers. Each outing is a new adventure. Keep experimenting.

 

muddler

[Garnet]

You need to start your presentation correctly. That's the float landing up stream and your bait downstream. With practice you can do this every time with accuracy. Them start slowing the float down and even stopping it at key spots making your bait hop up.

 

Garnet

[mpagnan]

Now I know there's many shotting patterns out there what what are the rules for basic set-ups? For instance:

More weight under the float creates = _____________

 

More weight on the leader creates = ______________

[muddler]

This wweb site does a good job of describing shot patterns and thier uses.

 

http://www.northamptonneneanglingclub.co.u...0and%20Rigs.htm

 

mudler

[acmarou]

http://www.raventackle.com/Shotting%20Patterns.pdf

[mpagnan]

I think part of the problem this that I don't fish waters that are consistently 4' and deeper.

[BillM]

Ok,so the float starts upstream and it is to pass you downstream. Now, should I close the bail as soon as the float hits the water up stream? And secondly, where should the strike zone be in position to where I'm standing?

 

 

Not really, you don't want to cast to far upstream from your standing position.. Cast the float up a bit above you, but the majority of your drift will happen below your standing position.

 

When you hold the float back by putting a bit of tension on the line as it leaves the reel, this is called 'trotting'. When you float 'c.o.c.k.s' this is when it goes to it's vertical position after being pulled down by the shot you've put on the line below it.

 

You don't want to close the bail, how else are you going to let the float go downstream? You'll want to control the line leaving your reel with your finger to make sure there is a slight tension..

 

I'm a newb when it comes to float fishing, but I've been lucky to have some great teachers.. It's helped with the learning curve

Edited August 21, 2009 by BillM

[DMASSE]

PAGS

 

Where are you from, I get out alot and always interested in fishing with new people..... Also what type of gear are you using. I do alot with Raven tackle http://www.raventackle.com/pro_staff.htm and could help recomend the right set up

 

Let me know

 

Dave