DRIFTER_016

I just ordered one of These from Bass Pro. I liked the one Solopaddler had on our Attawapiskat trip last spring so I picked one up for this year. I bought the 24"X12"X12" version. Plenty of room for a bunch of 3700 series boxes.

Seems the Toronto Maple Leafs new skates are to have toe picks!!!! LOL Article

I too used rods in the MH range 6 1/2'-7'. A 9wt fly rod works well up there too!!!

No, this applys to regular tube type tip tops not tying on a traditional single foot guide as a tip top. Likely your wrap tension was too loose which is why the wrap failed. Retie with more tension next time and the problem will be solved. I don't bother tying on single foot guides as tip tops any more since I now use single foot fly guides as the running guides on almost all of my rods now. Traditional tip tops line up very nicely with them and traditional tip tops are much more durable.

When using the glue stick type adhesive you need to get it pretty hot to thin it out enough so the guide doesn't scrape it off when installing it. The best way to make sure this doesn't happen is to use 5 minute epoxy as it's quite a bit thinner. Using heat (just like you would with the glue stick adhered guide) you will still be able to remove the tip guide if it ever needs replacement as well.

Thanks Bill Can that one be left hooked up all the time? Even when one of the motors is tilted up? I am trying to figure out what to do when I repower my boat. I don't know wheter to add a second set of controls and a motor connector or use a Pro Troll 3 and add the panther electronic steering control. It would be nice if it could integrate with my GPS for auto pilot use when trolling.

Hey Bill What trolling motor steering connector are you using? Need to think about getting one for my boat. Almost forgot Nice Feesh!!!

OOPS!!! Just realized I missed the "e" in fore shadow. How embarassking!!!

Don't need one. Just launch the fishin' boat.

Definately!!! Don't use it until you check the vent line as it could be blocked. You might want to take the back off the dryer too to check for lint build up. The last place I lived in I don't think they ever emptied the lint trap and there was nearly a full garbage bag worth of lint packed up inside the back of the dryer. They do have a system in place that shuts doen the element if it gets too hot though. You might check to see if the vent line has come loose as well. This would be dumping heat into the laundry room.

MEH!!!! :dunno: It's ok, but I like mine better. All 530 feet of her!!!! :tease:

It is told that they for shadow the four horsemen of the apocolypse!!! The end is nye!!!!!! The Mayan's were right!!!!! How did they know? How did they know?

Follow the one in the plastic sheath that goes of to the left near the bottom of that picture. It should route under the bottom spark plug wire and up the back of the motor and into a block held on with 2 bolts 1/2 way up the head. If it does that is the one I believe.

Here are thier Polarized Glass Models. There are several that have wire frames and 3 are wrap around types that will catch less wind. Plenty of deals on ebay. Go to your local optometrist/eye glass place and find a pair you like and hit up the auctions for a deal.

How 'bout these? You be lookin' cool 80's style!!!! Actually Rayban has a bunch of wire frames that might fit the bill and a lot of vision places carry them.

Like I said with mine it's a wiring issue near the controls. Wiggling the harness around made it stop for a while. If this works for you the easiest fix is to replace the controls. It could be a bad temp sensor. Follow the temp sensor wire to find the sensor/connector. The temp sensor wire should be a black cable that runs along the starboard side of the motor near the bottom. It runs from the area below the starter, underneath the bottom coil pack and up the back of the motor into a block held on with 2 bolts. It is on the starboard side on the head mid way up the block. It should be plugged into the harness in the area below the starter. It looks like the over tem sensor wire is black and connects to a terminal block. If you disconnect this wire from the terminal block and the alarm no longer sounds when running the motor replace the sensor. If it still sounds it's a short in the wiring harness.

Then yer good.

Check the water intakes on the lower unit for something blocking them and when it's warm and been running a while check the telltale (pee hole) with your hand. It should be warm and not scalding.

Just give them to this guy.

Millhouse Unfortunately my soloution will not work for you since you have a tiller. What motor are you runnning?

Honda Ridgeline is a Honda Pilot with a pickup bed. So it is the same as a Pilot. And it will pull you boat just fine. Cost on the Pilot and Ridgeline is about the same.

Question Is your motor a tiller or console steering? If you have console steering I would suggest replacing the helm to one of the (NFB) no feed back units. I did this on my boat as I was tired of always readjusting the steering while trying to set downriggers etc. The NFB units actually have a clutch mechanism that locks the steering until you yurn the wheel. No more watching your wheel slowly turn to the right while trolling. They are easy to install but before ordering you need to remove the original steering cable from the boat in order to get an accurate measurement of it's length. If you are semi handy and can read instructions it's an easy install. It took me about 2 hours from start to finish. NFB Steering Kit

I ended up disconnecting the beeper when my temp sensor/wiring harness started acting up. Not sure where the issue is but my oil level sensor went after 4 or 5 years and then at the 15 year mark my alarm started sounding intermittantly. The issue I believe is wiring related ie. a short or something. I just disconnected the alarm as I didn't want to replace the controls (this is where I think the issue is). I will be replacing the controls when I repower the boat and all should be well.

12 guage is fine for your main bus wiring from the battery to helm. Don't forget to use a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker within 12" of the battery on the positive lead. I suggest running 12g power and ground and using terminal blocks for distribution at the helm.