SlipperyVic

Alina had eyes only for me... and the 7 other dudes in the chat, lol.

You can on Amazon. I still have a new in box spare for mine somewhere around here. https://www.amazon.ca/Attwood-Wireless-Remote-Handheld-Motorguide/dp/B000G78YRS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OCISU6VELH2J&keywords=w55+motor+guide+remote&qid=1699259490&sprefix=w55+motor+guide+remote%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1 I'm sure I paid less than $100, but that was a few years ago.

When I had a W55 wireless model I found if I didn't use the foot pedal on a regular basis I would have to re-pair the foot pedal to the motor. Then it would be fine. The hand remote never lost pairing, but I used that all the time.

It certainly is a beautiful and amazing place. That day there were 3 fat, lazy seals having the meal of a lifetime. I wouldn’t say there was a whole lot of chasing going on. More like the seals were just coasting downstream and biting at the Salmon as they passed. Lol. Quite a site.

Currently in Ketchican, Alaska. The salmon run up here makes GTA trips look absolutely barren by comparison. They wouldn't be able to set a picnic table down without the fish carrying it away.

I'm on vacation currently on a cruise and have terrible internet. I can't get much of anything to load. I'm back Sept 5th, and would be happy to give you a hand fixing up that plug if you still need it at that point. I'm in Georgina so not far away as I think you said you're in Newmarket area. You could just use the ole Keswick special until then. Wire nuts and some electrical tape, lol.

Here's a wire soldering tip that's useful for every joint, but especially handy for hard to reach joints. Use a technique called the Western Union splice. Look it up on Google. Wire joint is mechanically locked together before soldering so as long as you can get the iron in there you can solder it. You don't need to hold it as it won't come apart. With a bunch of practice and a couple of burns you can solder a joint with one hand, upside down in the underside of a dashboard as you lay in filth. Boy I miss being in the trade, lol. I will also add that the Western Splice also leaves a very smooth easy to shrink tube joint. Not a big ugly blob.

Don't cut off your old plug straight across. Stagger the wires so you don't end up with a big clump of splices all in once place. Cut the green wire 2" from the plug, the yellow one 3".. brown one 4" and the white one longer than that. Do the opposite with your new plug and this way your trailer harness won't end up looking like a python that just ate a gazelle.

Water flows into Pigeon Lake from the Pigeon river, and then up to Gannon's Narrows and East to Buckhorn.

Sure is. You don't have to venture far into the lake from the river mouth to be in Musike country

There's a good launch at the south end of Pigeon opposite of Emily Park on Peace Rd. Launch is on the South West side of the bridge, and a good amount of parking on the North West side. It's a bit of a ride up to the north end from there, but lots of good fishing in between. Lots of those pencil reeds in the south end of the lake. Lots of ski's down there too.

It's a self resetting circuit breaker. The breaker is sized for the wiring it protect. The wiring is sized depending on the size of the load, and the length of the wire. What sized motor and wire are you dealing with?

I'm sure it started life as a tiller, but some where along the lines someone did a home brew side console conversion.

Haven't fished Cameron yet, but I do get my ass handed to me on Balsam on a semi regular basis. I know a good launch on the west side of Balsam if you can't find anything on Cameron.

I never use the foot pedal on my TM and I'm up front casting my way down weed lines all day long. It's all a personal preference. I have big feet and can use all the floor space available. My current TM is a Motorguide with the wireless foot pedal and remote so I put the foot pedal in a storage bin. I'm looking to upgrade to a Ulterra. I'm not sure where I'm going to store that useless huge pedal.

I surely hope not because I have an old 15' fishing boat that I'll be looking to sell shortly.

My 30hp Johnson would constantly get a spider in the tube and I'd have to clear it out with a bottom bouncer. I started putting a golf tee into the tube every time I'm done with the boat and problem solved.

I applied for a PCL for a boat I bought in September. I got the email confirmation that my application was made and a temp PCL, but still no permanent PCL.

I picked up a pair of HB Helix MSI G3N untis for a pretty good deal. Now I have all winter to figure out how to use them.

Yeah I'm specifically talking about the 2" poly line from the pump. It generally comes in 50' rolls and you have to add your own termination to it. Best way is to fusion weld on a cam lock fitting but I that's not really an option for a home owner. Fusion weld > Campak > CB Compression. For smaller than 2" the regular compression fittings work just fine. It's the 2" that won't hold more than ~50psi and that's after being tightened with a pair of 48" pipe wrenches by a guy who you wouldn't want to meet in a dark alley.

You should be using this style of compression fitting that Cambridge Brass calls a Campak fitting. The look like this It's a compression style fitting, but that little pinching screw makes all the difference. After the fitting is assembled and tightened, you clamp down those screws and the ridges inside the fittings bite into the outside of the poly pipe and give it some mechanical restraint. You can use these fittings above grade with no backfill and not have a problem. Although the instructions say they are not required for a Campak fitting I always like to use the stainless steel poly pipe inserts with them anyways for some extra piece of mind. A regular CB Compression type fitting is the one you want to avoid. These will seal poly pipe well but do not offer any mechanical restraint whatsoever. These fittings are designed to be burried, and the weight of the fill is what restrains the pipe. These fittings just seal. Don't use this style: Or else your going to have some dramatic failures.