mcdougy

You may have just opened the big door for the musky debate.? I have read several times that I need a boat full of gear to go after musky. Truthfully I hope I never catch a musky because that would fuel the fire of this addiction to More More More equipment.

I believe the guilty verdict is a direct result of no hazard lights activated. Stopping was a poor choice, not putting on her hazards when stopped was almost setting a trap for people. The price is unmeasurable for both parties involved and I'm sure that is how the court will handle the sentencing. I will be surprised if there is a heavy sentence for her, but do belive she is responsible for the accident.

Thanks fellas for the input, any little tricks to picking out these bird nests that i will have. I recall a conversation regarding braid and looking for the V to untangle?

Thanks the tape idea sure makes sense. Will that prevent me from knowing that I'm doing something wrong though?

I have a small problem as of the last 2.5 years. Bought a motor for our hunt camp, then came the boat, now is the tackle and equipment purchasing. As of late, I picked up my first casting rod from the classifieds on here. (Thanks musky_hunter). Last weekend I picked up a new chronarch 201e. Now I have no idea what I'm supposed to put on the end of this rig. Looking for examples of lures that are new b friendly and will give me a chance to boat a fish or two. The first trip where I can have a week to give this new rig a whirl is in some water that has pike, small mouth, walleye, and rumored to have some musky also. I'm sure your going to ask what rod and unfortunately I'm not exactly sure, but maybe musky hunter can tell us, as I have not received it yet from my buddy that picked it up for me. I know it is a rapala shift and believe it is a 7'1 mh xf . The reel is spooled with 40lb power pro Thanks for the suggestions on lures and any other advice to a casting new b is appreciated. Cheers MM

Glad you got your part. I didn't see your reply till now. I would have suggested typing in part number and looking for most economical choice and have shipped to my free po box in port Huron.

Pal, it is awful and every city is doing it. High river= non treated everything

4 ways on?

Nice

Why not order online?

cap it. If its behind the meter its yours to deal with.

Thanks men, for the info. Sounds like i may have fun with the multi species fishing. thats a bonus IYO is a michigan fishing license required? Cheers MM

Wifey booked a cottage for 4 days in August in port lambton, I was unaware that this was on our to do list this summer. I was to lake st Clair once last year on a musky charter and know very little, even less about the st Clair river which is where port lambton is situated. Can anyone tell me what I may be able to expect while there? Is my 14' tinny suitable, or even launch able in this area.? Is there much fishing in the river, or is too much dodging of freighter ships? How long of boat trip down to the lake from this point on the river? ........as you can tell any help on info would be appreciated of the area, I know nothing and sadly, considered the brains of our operation...hahaha Cheers mm. We will be accompanied with our 2 boys aged 11 and 6 and this is who I must look out for the most as to not wanting to put them in a silly situation. Or get there hopes up that this may be a fishing trip holiday.

There is the bait place right in point au barril directly on 69 highway on the east side across from the gas station. Im not sure of the name of the place to call and check for leeches but they always have worms and minnows and some tackle.

Try a hose at the eject port, hold it up tight and turn her full blast to try and push blockage down. Seems crude but has worked a couple times on different small engines for me.

I've had an invite to travel down to a huntin pals cottage next month. He's actually on easterly lake (winking)right across from sandbanks p.p. He wants me to fish for walleye on westerly lake. Was curious if anyone had some info they cared to share with me. Pm if you choose. I can't find much info on this lake, it appears that it is relatively shallow, first hand knowledge would be greatly appreciated as well as some technique suggestions. My pal doesn't fish much and isn't much help for me. But he is one heck of a marksman. Cheers MM

I'm glad it all worked out for you Cliff. Being the fifth generation licensed carpenter in our family business I can attest to clients surprise when they find out no money "up front" is required. Workmanship and professionalism speak for themselves. TRUST is what I appreciate most, I'm doing work on someone's home and understand it is their investment of finance and pleasure. They do not want someone messing with that. The gratifying part is when the job is done, how happy and most often life changing you have just made your new friend. Just like I'm hearing you speak of your contractor. There are many of us that DO know what we are doing and saying. Our business is purely referral work as well, we are not in the phone book/ internet at all. It makes it nice when you can also ask someone about a potentional customer via referral. Working for strangers is a bit nerve racking for my financial interests also, so it's nice when we all know someone in common. But if we all trust each other and stand by our words, it has always worked out. We have never been burned thankfully, nor had a dissatisfied client.

Theres never a dumb question only dumb answers.... Any self respecting contractor will spend the time to answer all concerns....especially if hes getting paid by the hour!!!!

Also Cliff since you have some valleys, I would ask about a "W" valley versus the normal "V" valley. It helps slow the water from washing through the valley and up under the opposing metal. Metal roofs are trickier to seal for alot of reasons..some previously mentioned. In general ask "How do you seal the valleys? In general a tar impregnated foam tape is used vs caulking and the like.

No problem, I have not heard of a 40 year warranty i would read the fine print there for sure. If interested I use VicWest metal, genarally in the supervic profife for roofs. Vicwest is probablly the largest company in canada when it comes to sheet type metal. See how there paint warranty wording compares to this products out of curousity, Im positive your installer will be aware of the VW products also. They have been around for a loooongtime.

Cliff, you may want to reconsider putting snow jack on the entire roof, yes it stops the snow from sliding, thuss it makes the snow stay on your roof, thus not letting your roof clear can add a lot of weight, given your location. Sometimes i think over the doorways and where you park your car car is sufficient.

You need some air flow and a flat surface to screw the metal to, leaving the old shingles on is pretty standard, considering there is not 3 layers on there already, raising a weight concern. Each metal has a recommended strapping spacing, in general 24" max. I like 28 gauge but some consider this "old school" mainly because it costs more but that's because it's better metal IMO.

I'm not trying to get into any fights with anyone......sheet metal, here's what I know. The growing trend in sheet metal is 29guage high tensile metal. It costs less and covers more(wider sheet). I personally refuse to use it and continue to use the tried and tested 28guage. I used 29guage on a buddies small lean too off his garage. It is very brittle/ shatter prone IMO . You can not walk on the ribs or they will crack, when you cut it, it is messy as far as paint chipping and burning. All of this caused from being high tensile. I asked about trees because if you had a lot near the roof I would be concerned if a branch came down on the roof. Again it's a concern with 29 gauge IMO, with 28 regular steel no concern it just seems that much more forgiving as far as it will take more abuse. Mennonite steel....... Here's what has evolved in this area.....they bought a roll former from one of the major steel sheet suppliers, fixed it up and got it ready for use. THEN they needed rolls of steel to put through their roller so they started buying the REJECTED coils from the major supplier. Both were happy, Mennonites took the rejected coils at a discounted price, and the supplier had a outlet for rejected coils. These coils could be rejected for several reasons....bad primer, pin holing, bad paint bond are the most common. Well if you buy cheaper steel, have your own roll former, and lotsa kids to help you can sell steel at a discounted price obviously. Well for this reason Mennonite steel caught on with non educated or bottom line consumer, business was booming. Then the issues started showing up, but there was no warranty. They effected the market largely, causing the major steel companies to start lowering there prices to get more competeive. Both parties had a pow wow and major suppliers said were not selling you steel any more at a discounted price here's what it's gonna cost you now. This caused the Mennonites to start sourcing to the u.s. And caused the prices to be much more in line with the majors. They had another pow wow and decided that they would all raise there prices 15% over the original long standing price. Blaa blatant blaa to be honest I'm not sure what the story is now on what the Mennonites are up too besides they sold the company around here to a regular joe. So I guess that's what I am heeding caution towards in my experience, I would recommend a 28 gauge high rib steel ( which costs about 10% more than 29 ) and something with literature on the paint warranty. The product that I use and who will deliver anywhere in ontario or further has a 25 year paint warranty. Their application sounds correct as far as strapping with 1x4 on 24" max o.c., if noise is a concern you can apply sheets of foil faced board like energy board on top of strapping then screw the metal through it to strapping. Make sure strapping is nailed to the rafters and not just the plywood. Blaa blaa blaa. Anymore questions just ask...

Steel can go on anything, anywhere really...your roof style would not be a problem. The biggest thing to consider as a installer is... the water runs so darn fast on a steel roof...valleys are tougher to seal due to how fast the water can run. I will pass on some roofs that are not suitable for steel IMO mostly the ones with 25' valleys on a 12/12 pitch. If you went with RED and put a yellow M on the side yoou could sell 4 billion hamburgers tooo. I only deal with sheet type metals, the"shingle type " metal I have stayed away from, only a personal choice. There are alot of different "shingle types" out there.

Big Cliff, I have a few questions for you that will help me give you my professional opinion. As there are a few things that can make a steel quote very different.....Whats your pitch? Do you have many valleys? What preperation were they doing to existing roof before applying steel? Was it a sheet type metal or individual tiles? Whos metal was it? What guage metal was it? was there any mention of paint warranty? Do you have many trees close to your house? Did they discuss what types of flashings and vents they were putting on the metal roof? what material were they going to strap with? How close o/c is the strapping? Not trying to hinder only help, but there are many things to consider besides the bottom line.