Salomon report + issue with motor

[ilario]

Nice morining out on Lake O today. Launched out of Ashbridges and worked mostly the outdside of the drop in 200' +

 

Not a bad day with 5 salmon in 3 hours, biggest 25lb. One came off the leadcore line on a black and green spoon and the rest on cutbait behind aspindoctor. Best depth was 85 over 205'.

 

My 18ho evinrude was acting up a little. It's an older motor and I think all the trolling I've done might be affecting it. It just seemed a little bogged down today on the way back to shore. I couldn't get up to the usual spped and it seemed like it was labouring. I did mix a bit too much oil last time I fille dit up so maybe that's the issue? It seemed to troll ok today overall.

 

 

any ideas?

Edited August 3, 2007 by Poachers Paradise

[caper]

Not sure about the motor but nice fish..

[Zamboni]

Start with cheapest and most likely culprits-fouled plugs.

 

If spark plugs aren't the problem next I would do a decarb with Seafoam....trolling often results in carb deposits.

[ilario]

Start with cheapest and most likely culprits-fouled plugs.

 

If spark plugs aren't the problem next I would do a decarb with Seafoam....trolling often results in carb deposits.

 

 

On eplug is new, the othr was left over from when I bought it this spring.. Should I pull em out and clean them somehow, rrplace the older one or something else?

 

I'm assumming you can buy Seafoam at any marine dealer? What do I do with it?

 

thanks a lot!!

[PERCHER]

Replace both spark plugs.They are most likely foweled from trolling.Thats very common on 2 strokes.

[ilario]

ok, but one is only about a month old! Should I just replae both or the older one?

 

Is there anything else I can do to clean it up?

 

thanks fior the help!!

[Zamboni]

ok, but one is only about a month old! Should I just replae both or the older one?

 

Is there anything else I can do to clean it up?

 

thanks fior the help!!

 

Start by changing all plugs-verify heat range/correct plug, don't assume previous owner had correct plugs in there. Here's article on doing a de carb, using concentrated method....much better than simply adding some to your fuel. Not every Canadian NAPA store carries Seafoam-call around, it is a listed stock item for them. Do note to add oil to gas can your going to run off-many forget that. All you may need is plugs but doing a decarb on muffs in driveway is great way to meet every kid under 12 in neighbourhood-there drawn to smoke/noise. I did a merc SJ 120 and it was unbelievable the crap that came out the exhaust, ended up with gunk on driveway-pull well forward of garage doors if running on muffs on trailer for decarb. Best is at lake so you can rev it up.

----------------------------------------------------------------

A Simple and Cost Effective Way to De-Carbon an Outboard By Capt. Bob Dunkelberger

 

This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Opti-max and even 4-strokes... and should be administered after every 50-60 hours of use. First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3-gallon red Tempos works well or an empty gallon milk jug in a pinch, but it might be a bit messier. I use Seafoam over the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune. Note: in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that? Seafoam does the job in 15 minutes and can be purchased from NAPA, Car Quest or other auto stores. You'll need 3/4 gallon of gasoline and one 16oz can of Seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are pre-mixing in a carbed engine. Use a 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the small tank. Connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose from the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank onto that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If your engine has a fuel plug then you will also need a fuel plug on the smaller tank's hose. Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she gets loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 minutes at the dock or just cruising around under 2500 rpm's. Then shut it down and let it sit for another 15 minutes. Restart the engine; the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 more minutes. If she smokes after the second time do it again. I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. (I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used Seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke) The gallon mix should be just enough to do this 3 times. You don't need a wide-open throttle and you don't need to change the plugs. The plugs are cleaned at the same time as the combustion chambers. My suggestion is that every 50-60hrs is the optimal time to change plugs in most engines. I cleaned an antique Evinrude once that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the aforementioned mix through it. Seafoam, a great product, has been around since the 1930's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards. For you guys with the 4 stroke outboards? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they too will carbon up. Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2-stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne. For those guys that like to work the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs, Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure and notes on the can, "Oxygen Sensor Safe". After that, if your engine manufacturer recommends a daily additive treatment then do so. The tank and hose are a one-time purchase and the Seafoam is only costs $5-6.00 per can

[ilario]

I just bought new plugs. They didn;t have the NGK's so I wnt with the Champions, which is apparently the equivelent.

 

I also bought Evinrude-Johnson 'Carburetor and Choke cleaner' - they guy I bought it off (Leasure Marine) said it wouldn;t hurt to spray some of this product onto the carburetor while the motor is running.

 

Where exactly do I spray it (it has the extension straw)? I know the carb is at the rear of the motor. It has two smallish ports or holes. Should I spray some right into the holes?

 

And should I clean out the vales with something before I I put in the new plugs?

 

I also bought some sythetic blend motor oil designed for two strokes. Hopefully, this will keep it cleaner with fewer fumes.

[fishindevil]

Well sorry bout the motor problem, but yes it does sound like a fouled plug....but hey you did well out in 200fot,nice sized fish for sure well done cheers

[Zamboni]

The carb/choke cleaner goes right in carb while running as dealer said-hold off using it-sounds like you just had fouled plugs. Resist the urge to spray carb cleaner in cylinders when installing the new plugs-it'll strip lube off cylinder walls.

 

Buddy called me last Nov in a panic-while spraying fogging oil in cylinders during winterizing he lost the extension straw-shot right in!

 

Good synthetic oils really do cut down on emissions and fouling-I work on merc SJ's as sideline and it really helps those engines-cuts way down on fouled plugs in no wake zones. Amsoil is excellent.

[ilario]

The carb/choke cleaner goes right in carb while running as dealer said-hold off using it-sounds like you just had fouled plugs. Resist the urge to spray carb cleaner in cylinders when installing the new plugs-it'll strip lube off cylinder walls.

 

Buddy called me last Nov in a panic-while spraying fogging oil in cylinders during winterizing he lost the extension straw-shot right in!

 

Good synthetic oils really do cut down on emissions and fouling-I work on merc SJ's as sideline and it really helps those engines-cuts way down on fouled plugs in no wake zones. Amsoil is excellent.

 

 

Thanks again...I guess if it's still running rough, I'll spray some of that stuff somewhere in the vicinity of the carb!! good luck to me

 

Where do I buy Amsoil? I bought the blend stuff..made by Johnson.. is that any good? so should I expect better mileage too? it sucks gas now like a little pig

[Zamboni]

Johnson synthetic is good-all low ash really cut down on emisions and engine deposits/fouling.

 

You'll find carbs if you need to try the carb cleaner....follow linkages, pull throttle-look for butterfly moving in opening.

[silvio]

Nice fish the fish looks a little dark its only a matter of time till we start hitting em from the piers. we need some cold weather and rain.

[ilario]

another couple of weeks and I'd say the chinooks will be snifing off the piers at night

 

it was actually still pretty silvery... the head had a touh of bronze but the body was quite silvery..here's another pic

[silvio]

Yep head is bronze but his body is silver like a dime. Just a mater of time till his hole body gets bronze.

[John Bacon]

I just bought new plugs. They didn;t have the NGK's so I wnt with the Champions, which is apparently the equivelent.

 

I also bought Evinrude-Johnson 'Carburetor and Choke cleaner' - they guy I bought it off (Leasure Marine) said it wouldn;t hurt to spray some of this product onto the carburetor while the motor is running.

 

Where exactly do I spray it (it has the extension straw)? I know the carb is at the rear of the motor. It has two smallish ports or holes. Should I spray some right into the holes?

 

And should I clean out the vales with something before I I put in the new plugs?

 

I also bought some sythetic blend motor oil designed for two strokes. Hopefully, this will keep it cleaner with fewer fumes.

 

 

 

I have never seen an outboard with the carburetors at the back before. They are usually at the front of the motor. Some motors have a plastic cover over the carbs; you may have to remove that. if you choke the motor the choke throttle plates will close the opening to the carburetor; that is where you will want to spray.