mr blizzard Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Greetings from Yellowknife, sorry for not posting much recently. Been busy trying to fix the mobile house up etc. Only out fishing 3 times, a couple of pike and a few whitefish. I need some expert advice. We bought a 6 foot vinyl patio door. It is going to lead out to the deck. The wall exterior is wood siding. I would appreciate info on building a false wall to support the roof, the size of the header I need, the size of the rough opening etc. We cant afford a contractor up here as we just had our boat shipped up from Ontario, thanks for any assistance. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris.brock Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 is this in a regular house or a mobile house? I opened up 2 supporting walls in my house with two 2x12's nailed together for headers, everythings fine, not that difficult a job remember, once the header is in, there is increased load on the studs holding the header and that load is transfered to whatever is below them (mine ended up on a jack post so I didn't do any extra work in the floor below) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr blizzard Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 is this in a regular house or a mobile house? I opened up 2 supporting walls in my house with two 2x12's nailed together for headers, everythings fine, not that difficult a job remember, once the header is in, there is increased load on the studs holding the header and that load is transfered to whatever is below them (mine ended up on a jack post so I didn't do any extra work in the floor below) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr blizzard Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks Chris it is a mobile home on wooden pads as many are up here, some are on steel pilings but ours are on wood pilings, maybe I should support under the door with steel jacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twocoda Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 being a mobile home if you do not have the thickness to accommodate a 2 ply 2x10 then youll need to purchase an laminate beam that are narrower in width and can be cut to any length required for a header. If you are repurposing old studs for your cripples (jacks)make sure your header or LVL is long enough to accommadate the extra width of the material 72 inches plus cripple width (x2) plus 1 inch will give you your header length Once the cripples are in your RSO should be 73 inches giving you 1/2 inch gap larger than the door on either side to accommadate adjusting for Door Level and Plumb Dont forget to silicone seal the base of the door to the floor it sits on (you can use contruction adhesive if you wish) and shim the 6 points around the door to snug it up in the RSO Screw through the shims into your cripples but dont drive the screws home (just snug them up) insulate the RSO ( if your using foam make sure its low expansion type and close and lock the door (dont open the door until it is completly set) if your using high expansion foam you will need to make a brace to put inside the door frame to keep it from bowing the door in....or you can simply tuck batt insulation in the gaps around the door Depending on the manufacturer specs can vary for the RSO due to nailing flanges and brick moulds ...make sure you know the RSO of the door you are using Good Luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twocoda Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks Chris it is a mobile home on wooden pads as many are up here, some are on steel pilings but ours are on wood pilings, maybe I should support under the door with steel jacks. All your doing is transferring the roof load from where a wall use to be to either side of the RSO with the header unless the rim joist structure of the mobile home is damaged you shouldnt have to add any additional support under the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr blizzard Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 All your doing is transferring the roof load from where a wall use to be to either side of the RSO with the header unless the rim joist structure of the mobile home is damaged you shouldnt have to add any additional support under the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr blizzard Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Thanks TWOCODA for all the great information, You have helped to lower my blood pressure. . You have done this before, If I had the extra cash I would fly u up here lol. One other question, what should the initial rough opening be for the six foot door. Would it be an extra four inches on either side to allow for the cripple studs, thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laker19 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 can you post pics of the inside and outside of wall the door is going in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tb4me Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 being a mobile home if you do not have the thickness to accommodate a 2 ply 2x10 then youll need to purchase an laminate beam that are narrower in width and can be cut to any length required for a header. If you are repurposing old studs for your cripples (jacks)make sure your header or LVL is long enough to accommadate the extra width of the material 72 inches plus cripple width (x2) plus 1 inch will give you your header length Once the cripples are in your RSO should be 73 inches giving you 1/2 inch gap larger than the door on either side to accommadate adjusting for Door Level and Plumb Dont forget to silicone seal the base of the door to the floor it sits on (you can use contruction adhesive if you wish) and shim the 6 points around the door to snug it up in the RSO Screw through the shims into your cripples but dont drive the screws home (just snug them up) insulate the RSO ( if your using foam make sure its low expansion type and close and lock the door (dont open the door until it is completly set) if your using high expansion foam you will need to make a brace to put inside the door frame to keep it from bowing the door in....or you can simply tuck batt insulation in the gaps around the door Depending on the manufacturer specs can vary for the RSO due to nailing flanges and brick moulds ...make sure you know the RSO of the door you are using Good Luck... Ya what he said...lol He knows what he is doing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twocoda Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Thanks TWOCODA for all the great information, You have helped to lower my blood pressure. . You have done this before, If I had the extra cash I would fly u up here lol. One other question, what should the initial rough opening be for the six foot door. Would it be an extra four inches on either side to allow for the cripple studs, thanks again. Here is a RSO framed in for a 6 foot door notice the studs and cripples on either side of the door...i like to put my headers under the sill plate and build down to my required height..the actual opening for this paticular door is 73 inches wide by 89 inches tall which translates to one inch too wide for the door and one inch too high...giving you room for shims and insulation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strik Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 being a mobile home if you do not have the thickness to accommodate a 2 ply 2x10 then youll need to purchase an laminate beam that are narrower in width and can be cut to any length required for a header. If you are repurposing old studs for your cripples (jacks)make sure your header or LVL is long enough to accommadate the extra width of the material 72 inches plus cripple width (x2) plus 1 inch will give you your header length Once the cripples are in your RSO should be 73 inches giving you 1/2 inch gap larger than the door on either side to accommadate adjusting for Door Level and Plumb Dont forget to silicone seal the base of the door to the floor it sits on (you can use contruction adhesive if you wish) and shim the 6 points around the door to snug it up in the RSO Screw through the shims into your cripples but dont drive the screws home (just snug them up) insulate the RSO ( if your using foam make sure its low expansion type and close and lock the door (dont open the door until it is completly set) if your using high expansion foam you will need to make a brace to put inside the door frame to keep it from bowing the door in....or you can simply tuck batt insulation in the gaps around the door Depending on the manufacturer specs can vary for the RSO due to nailing flanges and brick moulds ...make sure you know the RSO of the door you are using Good Luck... I think you might have done this a time or two almost like it was taken out of a text book. Nice work Dave Nice to have a builder to help others out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushart Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 Good thinkin twocoda Most I've seen put the header (lintle) right on top of opening I like your idea better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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