Fishnwire Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 Some of you might know I'm building an ice shack. I have yet to cut the hole for the stove pipe. I had planned on putting it out the top, but could be convinced through the side is a better way to go. It's a six inch pipe. The problem I'm having is in finding a good solution for insulating the pipe where it exits the shack. It's plywood on the outside, three inches of insulation, and OSB on the inside. I bought an insulated collar ($65)...but it's a foot long and there is no good way of affixing it to anything...it will basically be held in place by the stove pipe it rests on, and it's pretty heavy. It's not really meant for this application, but an actual residential structure. It can be purchased separately (which I did) but comes as part of a $300 kit with a bunch of other stuff. I suppose I could build something out of tin and fire-proof insulation, but I'm not exactly a tin-smith...I don't even own a pair of snips. My neighbor does duct-work installation for a living. Maybe he could help me out. Any suggestions appreciated.
cheaptackle Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Might be an option to check Kijiji or ??? for one 24" length of insulated pipe and collar to suit. Use it to pentetrate the roof, put a cap on it and interface black pipe from stove to insulated. Not sure what clearance you need between insulated pipe and your insulation but it would be a hell of a lot less than plain black pipe. This would also help with reducing any creosote build up in the pipes. Edit to finish (sloppy fingers!) The collar flange can be attched to your roof deck (caulk it well) and will cover the opening you'll need for the pipe nicely. When done it should look similar to the plumbing vent on your house only shinier & bigger! Michael Edited January 23, 2012 by cheaptackle
Twocoda Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) purchase a zero clearance collar and run your insulated pipe through the collar....i think they are 40 bucks maybe less....i would run the pipe clear of the roof as to not be worried about wind direction...be it inside or outside the mansion... Edited January 23, 2012 by Twocoda
Fishnwire Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) purchase a zero clearance collar... I don't know what that is. Google didn't really help. I suppose I would need to go to a store that specializes in this kind of thing, and they'd be able to help me out. I'm hoping to not get soaked another hundred bucks or whatever. I sure don't want to burn the thing down either though. Edited January 23, 2012 by fishNwire
steelhedrmatt Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) put in a square of tile backer cement board 5/8 thick then use high heat fireplace silicone to seal the gaps around pipe. I used this material to build a box around the pipe in my cabin where it goes through the roof. Stayed 12" around the pipe, and where it exits through the roof, I put a 16x16" square. Even with a raging fire in the stove, there is little or no heat transfer. Not exactly code, but a cheap alternative. after all, it is an ice shack. Edited January 23, 2012 by steelhedrmatt
Fishnwire Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Posted January 23, 2012 put in a square of tile backer cement board 5/8 thick then use high heat fireplace silicone to seal the gaps around pipe. I used this material to build a box around the pipe in my cabin where it goes through the roof. Stayed 12" around the pipe, and where it exits through the roof, I put a 16x16" square. Even with a raging fire in the stove, there is little or no heat transfer. Not exactly code, but a cheap alternative. after all, it is an ice shack. Does the cement board hold up to getting wet? The piece on the roof might get bit of water where the stove pipe goes though the roof metal. I'd seal it with silicon...but if water can get it, that's where it'll happen.
woodenboater Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 I would think you could fab something out of steel or aluminum sheet. Cut an oval hole (if pipe is exiting at an angle). Shouldn't be any heat issues if the sheet is large enough. I'd also go out the side as it should be an easier job to cut and fit. I use a stove (Kni Co) in my canvas tent which has a silicone pipe hole and never had probs even with the stove going red (rarely run it this hot though). Are you using 6" pipe ?
Gerritt Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 yup.... it is designed for use in bathroom showers etc...
ChrisK Posted January 23, 2012 Report Posted January 23, 2012 My Florida room at the trailer needed to be brought up to code last year and this is what I had to do and you could use this idea for your ice hut. I bought a support box. Basically a black tin box that is attached between the roof structural members that hangs below your ceiling about 8 inches.This creates a solid connection for your insulated stainless chimney to connect to your stove pipe in a non flammable tin case below ceiling height. The stainless is also bolted to your members or what ever your ice hut roof is built out of. You may have to modify your roof some what but this may be as easy as adding some material to the outside of the roof.
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