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Kingpin Imperial


Bill Shearer

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I just received the prototype of the Kingpin Imperial

Weighs in at 9.03 oz.

4 3/4" diameter,

spool width is 3/4"

Abec 5 bearings.

Going to be available in grey and bronze

Slated to go in production by late spring, (after testing), and in the stores by August.

Definately under $400. retail.

 

It will be on display at the St.Croix booth Saturday/Sunday, at the show.

 

IMG_1005.jpg

IMG_1006.jpg

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I just received the prototype of the Kingpin Imperial

Weighs in at 9.03 oz.

4 3/4" diameter,

spool width is 3/4"

Abec 5 bearings.

Going to be available in grey and bronze

Slated to go in production by late spring, (after testing), and in the stores by August.

Definately under $400. retail.

 

It will be on display at the St.Croix booth Saturday/Sunday, at the show.

 

IMG_1005.jpg

IMG_1006.jpg

 

Fantastic Bill! And a great price as well.

Would have been nice if they had put a nice flush dust cap instead of the screw on the front though.

Question for you, why does Kingpin not port their backplates or at least offer it as an option?

An already light reel would be even lighter (I like light :) ).

Have to say I was glad to see they did away with the bold white script on the back plate.

The newer more subtle look is much better imo.

 

Anyhow at that price I might just have to grab one next summer.

 

Cheers, Mike

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I think it's important to have a ported spool and in general have the spool as light as possible....but I personally prefer a solid backplate, I think the extra weight helps to balance the rod better....good looking reel for sure

 

 

I used to think that way.

 

I recently started adding counterweight into the butts of my longer float rods when they're built.

Makes an unbelievable difference imo.

 

Lightest reel possible for me. I've never had an issue with dirt or grit and a ported backplate.

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Is the back left solid so you can drop it in the dirt for them pictures and not have the spool fill with silt???

 

:dunno::D

 

 

Ported, non ported makes no difference to me. All my reels get dropped in the dirt and mud. :)

 

Actually I've found the ported reels to be better if you're inclined to do that as I am.

They flush out a lot easier if they get gummed up with grit.

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I recently started adding counterweight into the butts of my longer float rods when they're built.

Makes an unbelievable difference imo.

 

I absolutely agree with you....but for everybody using factory built rods and dont' have the option to request a counterweight system built in then a heavy reel is easer to balance i'd say....better than leadcore backing or lead golf tape that i've seen some dudes use, just redonk IMO....and more cosmetically appealing than those BPS slide on weights, although they do work.

 

on a side note, i have definitely noticed your rod in your pics before, quite the piece of eye candy....do you mind posting a pic of the counterweight system you have, are the weights interchangeable? i've seen some that have a removable but cap and you can use with BPS weights, but have also seen some that are fixed and permanent.

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Guest steel'n'esox

Solo I thought you like those light reels so when you take those nice fish pics with the rod and pin balanced on your back/neck you dont pop a muscle, or the nice light weight helps in the balance :whistling:

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I absolutely agree with you....but for everybody using factory built rods and dont' have the option to request a counterweight system built in then a heavy reel is easer to balance i'd say....better than leadcore backing or lead golf tape that i've seen some dudes use, just redonk IMO....and more cosmetically appealing than those BPS slide on weights, although they do work.

 

on a side note, i have definitely noticed your rod in your pics before, quite the piece of eye candy....do you mind posting a pic of the counterweight system you have, are the weights interchangeable? i've seen some that have a removable but cap and you can use with BPS weights, but have also seen some that are fixed and permanent.

 

I've only had a couple of rods built so far with counterweights.

It's permanent and has to be done before the rod is built.

Leave the butt cap off and insert small chunks of pencil lead into the butt with your reel of choice on the rod.

Once perfect balance is achieved glue the lead into the butt and glue the butt cap on.

I've found that been 1/2-3/4oz does the trick for me.

I like more of a spey style handle with the reel further down the handle closer to the butt.

The counterweight helps immensley.

For those that prefer a short fore grip and longer rear grip (more of a spinning rod style) it's less important to have counterweight obviously.

 

Side note, but most butt caps aren't that hard to pry off with care. Pretty much any float rod could be balanced this way.

Edited by solopaddler
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i've seen some that have a removable but cap and you can use with BPS weights, but have also seen some that are fixed and permanent.

 

There are a few companies that offer counter balance butts. fuji and matagi have nice screw on types with disc weights. Be prepared to pay through the nose for anything made by Matagi. Batson has a more permanent weighted butt cap where you select the weight you want on the end. If your buttcap is plastic, you can pull it off and glue tungsten weights in the blank. If your rod has a cork/eva/rubberized-cork butt cap, you can drill through it to glue in your weights, or tear off the cap and replace it. Balance is nice but be careful adding weight. At the end of the day, most people will prefer lighter gear.

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